A few years ago, I made a new carry case for my wife's Singer Featherweight sewing machine.  For those not familiar, it's a vintage model (I think hers is from the 1940's) that is lightweight and portable.  The old case was getting worn so I made one out of some quartersawn oak.  She takes it with her frequently when she's going to various groups that do a "sit and sew".

 

 

 

Anyway, one of her buddies took a picture of it and showed it to her dad and ended up with one like this.

 

 

 

Very nice. Quite a complement to your original design creation.

1 hour ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Very nice. Quite a complement to your original design creation.

Yes, my direction was "don't make it as heavy as you make most things."

Hi Keith is  this box wall 1/4" or 3/8" T?

 

6 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Hi Keith is  this box wall 1/4" or 3/8" T?

 

5/16"   ( or 8 mm)

 

Resawed down some quarter-sawn white oak.

Corners were reinforced with triangular blocks and then keys. If you look carefully at the photos, you can see them.   I tried doing box joints but by the time I did 35 or so of them, they were just a bit tight and I decided to give up on that idea.

Edited September 11, 20232 yr by kmealy

On 9/11/2023 at 5:28 PM, kmealy said:

5/16"   ( or 8 mm)

 

Resawed down some quarter-sawn white oak.

Corners were reinforced with triangular blocks and then keys. If you look carefully at the photos, you can see them.   I tried doing box joints but by the time I did 35 or so of them, they were just a bit tight and I decided to give up on that idea.

Thanks Keith if i ever want to create this box I think my porter cable dovetail machine may get a workout.

 

37 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

Thanks Keith if i ever want to create this box I think my porter cable dovetail machine may get a workout.

 

Will it cut dovetails on wood as thin as mine?

 

I originally got a Porter-Cable dovetail template.  It works but only makes half-blind dovetails.  Then I bought a different one (no longer made) that makes thru dovetails but is very complex in its set up.  I read the long manual, went to a one-day class, then studied it for a few days and make my own notes and charts.  The problem is you make part of the dovetail, switch the template around to make the other half, then if it's more than a few inches wide, adjust the stop over to some calculated value and do all over.  My philosophy is that every time you have to make a change it gives you the opportunity for something to go wrong.  (this is why I cut compound miters at and angle of the piece, not two angles on the miter saw).

 

Then a couple years ago, I got Wood Magazine's tip of the issue and they sent me a Woodcraft jig.  It is supposed to do both thru and half-blind dovetails.  But the thru dovetails are limited to 1/2" stock.  But I've yet to use it.

 

For my birthday this year, I got a Japanese saw and hope next time I have a dovetail project that I will polish up my hand cutting skills.

 

I have made a couple of box joint jigs that also work very well (look for them in a future Wood Magazine issue under tips).