Chop saw blade options

[Woodman]

A c.1989 Delta Motorized Miter Saw made it's way into my basement. All 70 lbs of it.  After a few cuts, I noticed the blade gave me a ragged edge. Thinking it was dull, I ordered a 60T blade while I thought about sharpening services.

 

Oshlun SBW-100060N 10-Inch 60 Tooth Negative Hook Finishing ATB Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor for Sliding Miter and Radial Arm Saws

 

The one that came off is a Freud 50T. They both have the laid-back angle to the teeth. The Oshlun is billed as "radial arm / sliding miter saw blade". Despite not saying "chop saw", I believe it was @Gene Howe who recommended "negative rake". So I have the right blade?

 

I did not realize the Freud was a 50T.  But I'm hoping the 60T and different grouping will produce a smoother cut. Saw blade insecurity strikes! Thinking maybe the Makita 80T from HD, $30 less, might have been better. But HD is a quagmire of temptation. 

 

So, even if I'm not thrilled with the Oshlun 60T, what happens if I use it in a table saw? The gentler angle will require a slower cut?

 

 

 

 

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

The negative hook blade will cut more slowly, but it should give you a much, much smoother cut. It can be used in the table saw with no problem, but the same thing, it will cut more slowly than an aggressive blade. I use one for cutting plastic type materials in the table saw (HMW, acrylic, etc.) because it's less prone to chipping. It's also the blade that's in my RAS all the time, it reduces the "self-feeding" characteristic of those types of saw. It's also the blade I put in my miter saw when I cut crown molding or trimwork that needs a glass smoother cut (my miter saw if for ome improvement stuff, not in the shop) Frankly, I can't see that much of an advantage in a sliding miter saw, but the blade companies all market them that way. But if you haven't tried it in your miter saw, I think you will be happy with the results when you do.

[Woodman]

31 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

it reduces the "self-feeding" characteristic

Thanks, Fred. Much appreciated. I went ahead and installed the blade, guard, cowling, selected a thin piece of stock, donned ears, and gave it a try. Smooth. A little chip-away on the thin stock but I realize that it is probably super-dry wood.

 

Then tried the 4x5 beam end. Wonderful. 

 

The Freud feels sharp but is probably not as sharp as it could be; the previous owner used this sw for whacking apart 2x4s for carcasses, rough-cutting black walnut, etc. and had no idea when he bought the blade.

 

[Woodman]

Wow, night and day! Ya think the Freud might'n'ave been a little dull?

 

[Gene Howe]

A sharp, 80 T Miter/Slider blade, gives a chip out free cut. But, to be extra cautious, Fastcap's. Zero Clearance tape is installed. To be reeely cautious, blue painter's tape on the cut line will almost certainly eliminate tear out. 

Edited July 18, 2022 by Gene Howe

[Woodman]

On 7/18/2022 at 7:06 AM, Gene Howe said:

Zero Clearance tape

Thanks, Gene.  I've heard the tape mentioned before.

 

How about wood? It looks easier to fit a zero clearance insert to an it was to my TS. A plain rectangle it is. And I've got a slat of perfect thickness. Trim to size, two holes, two counterbores, and I'm in business.

[Gene Howe]

The miter saw is the best use of the tape. A few ZCIs can be made to fit various blades on the TS. i.e., thin kerf, standard kerf, dado blades  etc.  I seldom use the TS for other than ripping or, dadoes. A ZCI, in those instances seems superfluous. With a good, sharp single purpose ripping blade, proper hold downs and edge guides, glue ready edges are the norm. 

Edited July 21, 2022 by Gene Howe