We have a cat named Velcro and she gets into everything and knocks things on the floor just for fun. So I came up with an idea to make an egg drawer to put the loose eggs in until I get a dozen of a size.

 

The first thing I tried was to make the drawer using some 1/2 Aspen with a lock rabbet joint. Well Aspen is too weak and the lip broke off just dry fitting the drawer together. I did use one piece to setup my finger joint...

 

So my next idea was to make the drawer sides from red oak ( I have a lot of red oak ), this worked great for a lock rabbet joint and so I built the sides and back then stood back and got an egg carton or 4 and the drawer was too big...

 

Having got my mind right on the size I wanted I decided to try a center pin finger joint... didn't spend enough time with my spreadsheet figuring that out, I could plug the holes but not happy with that attempt.

 

On to the winner, here I'm gluing up the side and back.

 

My center pin came out as desired and the extra width is in the center pin.

 

JT

Edited July 4, 20224 yr by jthornton

Here is the Egg Drawer, it will have only the bottoms of the egg cartons in it.

 

The top needed to be a bit longer so I added one more strip.

 

The finished top with a fresh coat of Tried & True varnish oil.

 

JT

Love that thicker center "finger". I do a lot with red oak, too.

The drawer pull is tigerwood on the outside, walnut in the center and aspen to brighten it up a bit.

 

I know I cheat but I have the equipment so I might as well use it... I ain't using it to build machines much anymore.

 

Paused the cut so you can see the path the down cut router bit takes.

 

Fresh out of the mill.

 

Round over work done and the drawer front is ready for some finish.

 

Fresh coat of Tried & True, probably take 3 coats the way it's sucking it up.

 

The Aspen is pretty soft, hindsight being 20-20 I should have used white pine as the router left some tiny divots in the Aspen.

 

JT

Edited July 4, 20224 yr by jthornton

LOL I must have had bowl on the brain... I know everyone is saying where's the bowl? For those that missed out I mistakenly titled the topic Egg Bowl.

 

JT

11 minutes ago, lew said:

Love that thicker center "finger". I do a lot with red oak, too.

I found out the hard way not all combinations work to produce a center finger joint. It's quite easy to do and easy to mess up...

 

JT

Nice work JT

Great project.  Turned out really well.  Great fit with the egg cartons.  Hope this keapts the cat out.

Neat project. Love the extra effort to dress it up with the finger joints and especially the wide center joint. 

Thanks for sharing.

The egg drawer is pretty much done... I'm pondering ways to attach the top to the sides so I'm open to ideas... I have some brass L brackets but they are too big.

 

 

JT

51 minutes ago, jthornton said:

The egg drawer is pretty much done... I'm pondering ways to attach the top to the sides so I'm open to ideas... I have some brass L brackets but they are too big.

 

 

JT

Are the slides full extension?

33 minutes ago, lew said:

Are the slides full extension?

Yes

 

JT

Small hinges at the back?

9 hours ago, lew said:

Small hinges at the back?

I want the top attached to the sides not hinged. Don't want to use pocket screws so thinking about figure 8 washers if I can find some locally or maybe make some...

JT

Looks like there is enough room to run a rabbet around the frame top then drop in the lid glue in place.

don't put all your eggs in one basket/drawer....

2 hours ago, lew said:

Looks like there is enough room to run a rabbet around the frame top then drop in the lid glue in place.

I don't think glue will stick to Tried & True Varnish oil... the lid over hangs the sides and back 3/8" or so to make a shadow sorta...

 

JT

Here is the top somewhat in position...

 

JT

How about screwing/nailing a couple of 3/4" square (+/-) rails to the bottom of the lid and then screw/nail them to the sides. Can't tell exactly how much room you have above the drawer but it looks sufficient to do something like this.

Here's another idea. Routing a dado on the underside of the top, a rabbet in the inside of the box sides and back then gluing a "spline" the is large enough to fit into the dado and rabbet. The glue should stick to the freshly routed wood.

 

Section view from inside

 

Front view with a through rabbet on the side

 

Blind dado and rabbets would be invisible from the outside.