February 19, 20223 yr Popular Post Old school for a handsaw... or... or.. Disston No. 68? Millers Falls coping saw.... Disston No. 4 backsaw...a few coping saws...D-8 Panel saw One on the right is a xacto razor saw..24 tpi.
February 20, 20223 yr 1 hour ago, Dovetail said: I’ve returned the Taj and ordered an 8” Lynx Gent from Woodcraft. Will try mortised brackets integral to a pine shelf. The last of my heart pine. Still no new handsaw but $35 should buy something better than any of my three handsaws. I’m still between a $35 decision and a ‘more’ decision. The small Irwin, I saw that and agree, it would definitely be better than my Zona. Santa just brought me a small Zona miter saw for Christmas..i have some scale modeling in the future and will be using it to cut plastic and softer woods or at least smaller stock. Seems nice for the $$...not sure of the number of teeth etc..but they are sharp to touch. I wouldn't hesitate buying one for wood or some of the Japanese styles...I'm in experiment mode at the moment. After I do a few dovetail projects the quality of saws I'm eyeing will probably go up...we'll see how it goes.
February 20, 20223 yr Author I loved my Zona in it’s time. Cutting boxwood pegs … but may have overcut it’s capabilities a few too many times. She’s got a pronounced list towards port side on most cuts. Definitely not operator error! Here’s the Zona when new. This bushing was cut in place: Edited February 20, 20223 yr by Dovetail
February 20, 20223 yr Author So I looked it up, my Zona is .010" thin, 32tpi. Fine Kerf Razor Saw 35-500. It was purchased only to cut those boxwood bushings as close as possible to the old violin pegbox. Without nicking the old varnish. Thinking the Irwin 213104 7" Dovetail/Detail Saw would have been a good / better choice; it's billed for "Flush-cutting dowels" I've overcut a few too many times with the Zona, though. As carefully as I cut, it always wants squaring. And I lose fractions here and there. Funny how they add up. The Lynx 20tpi saw replacing it, I do not see thickness specs on the flinn-garlick website. Nor blade thickness specs on the Irwin site for the 2014450 10". I've got slot files down to .010" and have not bent one yet, but they sure take care. It's like trying to create a notch with a sharpened feeler gauge. https://www.irwin.com/uploads/products/brochure/10_2013_Handsaws_eBook.pdf
February 20, 20223 yr Author Popular Post 14 hours ago, steven newman said: Old school for a handsaw... No disrespect intended! But back in the day, were these saws sometimes made from chair leg components? Did you make yours from scratch? Got a nice email from Wendy Taylor this morning. And finally ordered a new hand saw, the Lynx 14" Tenon Saw, 15 TPI, Cross Cutting (beech handle darn it, not walnut) to replace my brother's c.1990 Buck Bros. The collection, shortly to change. That short mangy Stanley in the middle is actually the best blade right now; it did my ripping yesterday right proper, messily enough to allow liberal planing with the No. 102. With saws like that, who needs an excuse to plane wood? Nicholson needle files, Grizzly nut files, Zona, Buck, Buck, Stanley, Lennox, Lennox, 'cheese saw'.
February 20, 20223 yr 19 hours ago, aaronc said: My current projects are moving along and I'm getting closer to my first dovetail...going to start incorporating dovetails in several things I do. Unless you gentlemen talk me out of it I was thinking of getting this cheap Irwin to try out. I'll be working mostly with curly maple. IRWIN Dovetail Saw, 10-Inch (2014450) - Undercut Saw For Door Jam - Amazon.com 19 hours ago, aaronc said: Here's another cheapy... IRWIN Marples 7.25-in Dovetail Cut Pull Saw in the Hand Saws department at Lowes.com Sorry late getting back to this. I bought the one linked below late 2020 off the "bay." It popped up as a "suggested item" when I was looking for something else. I paid about $20 all in for mine and picked it up at the mailbox. Seller was same as in the link. Sorry to say I haven't used it yet. Lost a year b/c of the whole back thing. Numerous positive reviews on it from multiple sites. My intent is to try it for dovetails too...someday. Same seller still has it on the bay few $$'s less plus free shipping. Another seller has it for $25+change, FREE Ship also. Crown 186AW Gents Saw, 6"
February 20, 20223 yr Author 13 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said: Crown 186AW Gents Saw, 6" Crown is well established. I've got Crown scrapers and almost bought one of their hand saws - Crown Tools 195 12 Inch 305mm Tenon Saw Brass Back, 13 TPI
May 4, 20223 yr Author Popular Post Getting back to this thread, the 32tpi Zona is still used for small brittle cuts, but the 8" Lynx 20tpi saw has mostly replaced it. Sure, I miss more teeth, but you get used to it. One thing, the new saws are sharp, and will grab the wood. I've learned to clamp first, and use a controlled, light touch. Let the saw do the work. And for bigger cuts, the Flinn-Garlick rules the bench. Again, it is sharp, and I've got to have my work well-secured to use that saw. It's an investment worth the money. Guess the Rule of Saws is like Steve Newman's Rule of Planes: I tend to size the plane used to the size of the task I need done.... Hoping to be in Arizona soon, I called Woodcraft in Mesa AZ regarding their saw sharpening. Their outsourced service is in good shape, no complaints, so I'll likely bring my 20" 9tpi and 14" 16tpi Buck saws. USA blades, from the 1980s or 1990s at the latest, I think, they are worth keeping. There are three Disstons and another waiting for me in EXMO's house as well. Taped together, hidden from ideas of Goodwill. These saws had a rough life on the belts of itinerant carpenters working remote sites largely without power. It's be great to make the most practical one a rip saw.
July 21, 20223 yr Author Nearly a dozen weeks into ownership and no regrets. Definite learning curve with the sharper saw. "Let the saw do the work" is not something I've been able to do until now, because all of my saws were so dull or light or ill-suited to task. Most of the time the saw is lightly balanced within the hand. Without a death-grip on one's saw, fiercely pushing the teeth into the wood, I've got more focus on keeping it straight. Yes, I'm the one who looked up "backsaw", thinking it meant the teeth were backward A backsaw is any hand saw which has a stiffening rib on the edge opposite the cutting edge, enabling better control and more precise cutting than with other types of saws. - wiki
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