What would be the best 10" table saw for a 4×8 portable workbench?  

Good question.  Let's add a few details to the mix.  Most important is, yup.... BUDGET.  Next to my mind is what experience do you have using a table saw.  This is important because you want a table saw that is going to perform to your skill level and expectations.  Many of these small table saws now do not have a cast iron or even steel top.  So magnetic feather boards would be useless.  Never mind the flatness issues that are common.  

 

Do you plan to incorporate the Table saw into the design of the bench?  This has advantages because it would give you more flat tabletop area to cut larger sheet goods down to size.  

 

Take some time to look at various builds with workbenches that have a table saw built in.  Make a list of what you do like.  My shop is small, so the Table saw / bench is the main workhorse.  Took alot of planning and set up to accomplish, but this has been a game changer for me.

 

 

What @Gunny said!

 

 I would ask what type of work are you going to do. Table top saws may not have the power you need. 

1 hour ago, Gunny said:

Next to my mind is what experience do you have using a table saw.  This is important because you want a table saw that is going to perform to your skill level and expectations.

I'll add to what Gunny said here. What do you hope to use it for now but also what kind of work do you HOPE to be able to do, 5, 10 years down the road? If the budget allows, best to bite most of the bullet now rather than getting something to just get by then needing to up grade in 2 or 3 years.

 

IMO, it's better to have more capability & capacity up front. If the passion is there, the skills will develop to do more and more. Just my $.02.

 

BTW, one thing we enjoy here is helping you spend your money That said, we'll help you make the best and wisest decisions we can drawing from our own successes and yes, failures too. So...

 

(1) Budget range?

(2) How do you plan to use a TS in the next 6-12 mo? Hardwoods, softwoods, both?

(3) Will it be your main saw to rip? crosscut? Both? dados? Resaw?

(4) Small projects? Large furniture projects? Home remodeling?

(5) Rip Capacity desired?

(6) Extension tables; L? R? Both? Router capable extension?

(7) Maximum depth of cut? (you've given some insight specifying 10" saw; most are close max depth but not all equal)

(8) Electric service available, ie, 110v or 220v

Edited December 21, 20214 yr by Grandpadave52

54 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

BTW, one thing we enjoy here is helping you spend your money 

 

 

Exactly, we are Olympic Gold Medalist in this category!!!!

 Check out some estate sales or auctions, they are a good source for some older saws. I have an older Craftsman saw with a cast iron top & it still cuts true and square. @Gunny helped me get over a hump last year when I built my table.

 

         

 

 

I was planning on having the TS be flush with the table top.  I was also thinking about a miter station that would be incorporated like the TS is going to be. 

Edited December 21, 20214 yr by Outcast37

2 hours ago, Outcast37 said:

I was planning on having the TS be flush with the table top.  I was also thinking about a miter station that would be incorporated like the TS is going to be. 

 

On the same 4x8 bench? Or two different tables / benches?

Same table. 

3 hours ago, Outcast37 said:

Same table. 

I won't tell you that it is impossible, it can be done.  What I will say from experience is that the negatives to this are problematic.  What you have is a tool (tablesaw) that can be mounted flush with the top and will greatly expand your capabilities.  You can couple this with a built-in router somewhere on the table and that works pretty well.  The negative comes with the miter saw.  It is a above the table tool no matter how you position it.  So it will be in the way of the table saw operation in some way shape or form.  Now you could make a flip top so it is down and out of the way when using the table saw.  BUT, that means it is one or the other, not both at same time.  Shopsmith owners find themselves in this dilemma, but I am told it is easy to swap back and forth. 

 

If space is limited, then you must work with what is available.  Key here is to maximize the space you do have.

 

This is my miter saw set up.  Typical of my work it is more extravagant than most.  The level of detail and finish is not what is important.  It is the use of space that I wish to demonstrate.  Others will post what they have done for a miter station giving you some more ideas.

 

 

 

 

Wow @Gunny, that's nice. I honestly don't think I've ever seen that wall in your shop. Love all the drawer space plus the finish and handles. Well done!

My miter saw sits in the middle of a dedicated 8' bench with moveable boxes built at the height of the saw's table, on each side for those longer pieces. Bench and boxes constructed of 3/4 Melamine for ease of stock and saw movement. The saw isn't bolted down to the bench.

A TS could be incorporated into the mix but, I don't think that would be too efficient. 

I would agree with Gunny. Try to find a used 10” saw with a cast iron top. There are a lot of used Craftsman and Delta saws out there and they are small enough to build into a table like Gunny’s. They will give you the most options down the line like opting for a larger motor etc. 

Paul

If you can find a high school that has closed down its wood working classes this would be the very best place to attend auctions... I've never seen any high school kids wear out any table saws. What I have seen is where throwing chairs and buddies in to things was the cause of things not to work but milage from use , no.

 Just make sure of the voltage before bidding for most would not want to pay for three phase to be installed in residentual areas. The last piece of equipment from a school I bought is a 5 hp 12" Powermatic table saw and it is the very best bargain of all the things I've bought over the years. Some schools had 1" shafts installed instead of the regular 5/8" models so be aware of that. I only use the 12" saw for cross cuts with a full size sliding table and only use 10" blades.. as there is quite a bit of difference in the cost of the two different blades with two different size holes.. so keep this in mind when shopping.

This is the kind is saw to be looking for 

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/lake-forest-10-table-saw/7406131877.html

Paul I would argue that for those gaps in the wings are very hard to put clamps on to hold stops for cutting desired lengths and sizes. Solid wings are the ideal type and nothing but cast iron is the way to go. I got a table saw like that from my dad and did not like it at all.

I think it also depends how mobile it needs to be.  Ron Paulk has an interesting take on this in the form of a modular jobsite table that he can break down and put in a trailer.

For those who think my twin table saw build is extra fancy.  Check this guy's fantastic build.  

 

 

WOW!!!!!!!!

I agree Smallpatch. I would take all extension tables off and build the saw table into the cabinet. So Outcast and Gunny you both have your work cut out after watching that video !!

Paul