I glued two maple boards together for the width and height for the next clock. 

  The dremel with the bottom of the attached tool ground flap saves lots of card scarping to clear away the glue so I don't clog up the drum sander. My hands don't like to grip anything anymore so I find power tools to keep my hands from keeping me up all night trying to make them feel better so I can get some sleep. Thanks dremel???!!

  

The way the edges look after the planner done its thing.

I might go about attaching the pattern to the wood maybe different than some.  I put down a layer of Scotch brand packing tape for this is about the only packing tape that don't leave sticky glue residue all over the wood which has to be removed before I could continue. Also Scotch makes lots of different types of clear tape and I have found the shipping tape instead of packing tape is the thickest an don't tear in to small pieces when pulling it off the wood. And then I spray a coating of stickum on to the tape...I did try applying  the stickum to the back side of the pattern when I first started but the wind folded the pattern together and could not get it apart so this is why the stickum goes on to the top of the tape and if it is a big pattern the honey bun helps guide to pattern in the exact place on the wood . Also if you got any stickum showing just use some strips of paper towels over the sticky.

 Next picture is of the pattern after I resized the original size of the clock  and I wanted it more narrow and taller than what it was to start with.

 

And before I started sawing out the pattern I attached a sheet of 1/4" BB plywood to the back of the maple wood I will use to carved this clock thingy.

  As soon as I get the outside edge of the pattern sawed out I will then counter sink some holes for screws to attach all the pieces to the backer board after I decide where I want to saw apart from each other. I will counter sink the right size holes for the tapered head sheet metal screws. Sheet metal screws are the same size body from top to bottom so a regular small drill bit works great which will keep the maple from splitting apart...no need to have extra work where it can be prevented to start with. And I install all the screws than will be needed to hold everything to the backer board.

 Next I will remove all the screws and sit the backer board out of the way and take the front board back to the scroll saw and decide where I want to cut the pattern up so I can have smaller sizes pieces of wood to hold in my hand while I use the dremel and other grinders to carve away the wood I don't need for the clock to look like some body thought he knew what he was supposed to be doing but actually I am keeping my eyes closed and gritting me teeth. 

This was a faded out picture to start with but can still see where the pieces can be seperated and still go back together with out too much gap showing.

 There is about 30 pieces to this clock right now. 

Before I started sawing the pieces I made sure each piece would have two screws holding them to the backer board. This would be the thickness of the scroll saw blade which is .037.

  There is a faster way of doing what I do and I first started making the wood wide enough to leave about 1 inch of wood for a frame and the backer board would be attached to the frame. So the gap would still be the same in all places and it would be the width of the scroll saw blade...and no screws were used for I would flood all the area inside the wood frame and all the gaps should be the same as the thickness of the saw blade...But as I started positioning the pieces over the wet glue and with over 220 was made building that Lion and is was almost impossible to remember where each piece went even though I practiced many many times but the glue kept me in a bigger hurry than I should have been and I could feel the glue was starting to win . There was no way to keep the same gap thickness.  I actually had to get the dead blow hammer to about 40 of the last pieces and some were much wider and some had no gaps at all... My little pea brain got a good lesson and the reason I come up with 2 screws into the back of each and every piece of wood from then on...and by putting the holes in each of all the pieces before they were sawed apart then all the pieces should have the same gaps every where and that is ,037.......or what ever saw blades width I choose to use. 

  The biggest problem a person would have cutting a pattern out with one inch thick wood is if he or she does not use regular scroll saw blades and only has experience with spiral blades and if he does used spiral blades I would think the gap between pieces would look terrible. And if a person does not keep that blade straight up and down while making the entire cuts they will not be able to slide the pieces apart after being sawed.

Otherwise doing this type of carving is not hard to grasp and is much faster than using actual carving tools.  

Lots of good info there Jess

 Looks like another challenging piece Jess. I've been using "duck" brand 12" shelf liner on the wood and the glue the pattern to that, I think @Gene Howe recommended it. I use a small ink roller to press it down, it stays put and doesn't lift the wood.

Yes, it kinda looks like it might take extra work to make it worth keeping !

I start by taking a small amount of away from each piece then keep repeating till there is no more to take off!

Rained all day slowly and it seemed like it slowed me down working on this thing. I'm not real thrilled as to how its looking, yet.

It may not thrill you but, it looks mighty fine from here.

Now I can see some improvement. Mybe tomorrow I can finish the grinding and smoothing then to choose the color, colors. Gotta wild thought?

 

This last piece I should have continued sawing it out at the end of the curved piece but this area was so dull I was just guessing but maybe it won't show so bad.

  I am out of clock inserts but got some of the 7 dollar models on the way from The Wooden Teddy Bear. 

Looks good.  

 I want my toys to be different. It might not show yet but I have 3 different colors so far.

That is looking great Jess

I couldn't make up my mind about what color to go with so I ended up with 3 or 4 die stain colors using air brush. I'm always in the trial mode so this will give me more to think about. You guys have about as much know how it will end up as me.

 All the colors will change after the clear goes on. The maple its self will dictate some of the changes. The humidity has a lot to do with end color but the 77% should drop by the time I get the deciding over with...the one smudge there in the right bottom piece was a drop from the air brush bottle but things like that don't give me head aches like they use to do!

31 minutes ago, Smallpatch said:

the one smudge there in the right bottom piece was a drop from the air brush bottle but things like that don't give me head aches like they use to do!

Yeah, us old guys don't sweat the small stuff, like we used to, do we?

Now you can start to see the 4 different colors I stained the different pieces!

 

I was after that fine line of adding very little stain to the maple wood to kinda get the appearance this was actually 4 different shades of maple I hand picked that didn't need any staining. 

 I'm hoping it stays close to this after I do more spraying clear and rubbing it out with steel wool.

I think you succeeded admirably. The lighter maple shade does stand out. Beautiful job! Can't wait to see the clock in it.

Finished spraying clear and dabin color here and there now just waiting for clock insert to arrive.

 I guess I was picking up too much light from maws glass for it made it look like I was taking that picture in the dark. 

 Real nice Patch. If you're still choosing the clock insert, I vote for the one in the 10:00 position.