Danl Posted October 19, 2020 Report Posted October 19, 2020 My son has asked me to refinish his kitchen cabinets. I am planning to use Sherwin Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua plus white for the doors and drawer fronts. This is the product I used for the small additional cabinet I made for him earlier this year. It is a water base material. If I skuff the door/drawer fronts with P220, is this enough prep for the SW product to adhere to the oak wood? They will be cleaned with Murphy's soap prior to sanding. The end panels are not wood, but a plastic laminate. Can I use the SW product? If not, what is needed? Will the end panels need skuffed? Appreciate your input. Thanks in advance. Danl FlGatorwood and Cal 1 1 Quote
lew Posted October 19, 2020 Report Posted October 19, 2020 Don't know what you are gonna use to get rid of that big black mark on the door in that first picture I'd use Simple Green to wash down the cabinets. Not sure about scuffing the end panels. Gerald, FlGatorwood and Cal 1 2 Quote
JimM Posted October 19, 2020 Report Posted October 19, 2020 Is there enough reveal to put a 3/16" or 1/4" skin on the end panel? Cal and FlGatorwood 2 Quote
Smallpatch Posted October 19, 2020 Report Posted October 19, 2020 Spraying I hope! HandyDan, Cal and FlGatorwood 3 Quote
Popular Post Fred W. Hargis Jr Posted October 19, 2020 Popular Post Report Posted October 19, 2020 The one thing I usually mention to anyone redoing kitchen cabinets: clean! Not with anything you normally use, but with TSP (the real stuff, not the imposter). That gets followed with some good grease cutting detergent (Dawn is good) and dried. the problem with the cabinets is not only the normal contamination from kitchen duties, but at some point they may have also received a dose of silicone from Pledge some other evil compound. Then even with that cleaning, they may still need a coat of shellac to seal off any leftover contamination. HandyDan, lew, DuckSoup and 4 others 7 Quote
Danl Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Posted October 19, 2020 4 hours ago, lew said: Don't know what you are gonna use to get rid of that big black mark on the door in that first picture I'm sure if they let the dog in the kitchen the black mark will go away in a hurry. haha Danl lew, Cal and FlGatorwood 3 Quote
Danl Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Posted October 19, 2020 2 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said: The one thing I usually mention to anyone redoing kitchen cabinets: clean! Not with anything you normally use, but with TSP (the real stuff, not the imposter). That gets followed with some good grease cutting detergent (Dawn is good) and dried. the problem with the cabinets is not only the normal contamination from kitchen duties, but at some point they may have also received a dose of silicone from Pledge some other evil compound. Then even with that cleaning, they may still need a coat of shellac to seal off any leftover contamination. thanks for all of the input. 4 hours ago, Smallpatch said: Spraying I hope! Spraying is how I was planning to do it. The weather is getting colder, so I better hurry (I spray in the garage). 4 hours ago, JimM said: Is there enough reveal to put a 3/16" or 1/4" skin on the end panel? There is not enough reveal for an additional skin. 4 hours ago, lew said: I'd use Simple Green to wash down the cabinets. Not sure about scuffing the end panels. I now know cleaning is a must. Not sure what to do with the end panels. Danl Cal, FlGatorwood and lew 3 Quote
Smallpatch Posted October 20, 2020 Report Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) Danl the end panels should take the water base okay when spraying. On the small things I air brush using water base I then use clear lacquer for the sheen I want but the water base has to be completely dry first...water base colors should look the same on wood and plastic. The end panels might get the color scratched off easier but they look like they are out of the way of any traffic to cause that... Edited October 20, 2020 by Smallpatch lew, FlGatorwood and Cal 3 Quote
Gene Howe Posted October 20, 2020 Report Posted October 20, 2020 Just a thought...Kilz for a primer coat might help. FlGatorwood and Cal 2 Quote
Masonsailor Posted October 20, 2020 Report Posted October 20, 2020 I agree with Fred. After all the cleaning apply a coat of shellac. It will stick well and give you a good surface to apply the actual finish. As far as the end panels it’s a difficult one. If you scuff them up you may have a difficult time getting a smooth enough finish but it’s going to be tough to get a finish that will not peel off down the road a few years. I think air brushing on an enamel is your best bet. Paul Cal and FlGatorwood 2 Quote
Popular Post Danl Posted October 20, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Posted October 20, 2020 6 hours ago, Gene Howe said: Just a thought...Kilz for a primer coat might help. I was thinking the same. I contacted Sherwin-Williams Industrial Products division local store and they advised me to get "Extreme Bond Primer'. I went to a SW local retail store and purchased Urethane modified Acrylic. We will use this primer on the end panels and the cabinet frames. I told my son that he needed to get out of the house after he applies it. Thank you all for your help. Danl FlGatorwood, p_toad, Cal and 2 others 5 Quote
JimM Posted October 20, 2020 Report Posted October 20, 2020 On 10/19/2020 at 11:47 AM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said: they may still need a coat of shellac to seal off any leftover contamination. Aren't some of the dedicated primers (Kilz, Bin, ...) shellac based? Cal, p_toad and FlGatorwood 3 Quote
Popular Post kmealy Posted October 20, 2020 Popular Post Report Posted October 20, 2020 25 minutes ago, JimM said: Aren't some of the dedicated primers (Kilz, Bin, ...) shellac based? B-I-N comes in two formats now, shellac and "synthetic shellac." I look for the original. When I have refinished cabinets I've always stripped and sanded them. So I don't have much experience with just top coating. I have rehabbed some kitchens that were done with some finishes that will not take any top coat, even itself after a short recoat window. I've also had to turn down touch up table repair jobs on this type of finish because it would not accept any touch up finish on top of it. Fortunately, it's rare, but it's still out there. Be aware that the oak's grain will telegraph through an opaque finish. Just be aware of this. In repairing fire damage to vinyl end panels, I've scraped off the damaged stuff, applied a self stick veneer, sanded and finished. p_toad, Cal, DuckSoup and 3 others 6 Quote
Gunny Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 58 minutes ago, kmealy said: B-I-N comes in two formats now, shellac and "synthetic shellac." I look for the original. When I have refinished cabinets I've always stripped and sanded them. So I don't have much experience with just top coating. I have rehabbed some kitchens that were done with some finishes that will not take any top coat, even itself after a short recoat window. I've also had to turn down touch up table repair jobs on this type of finish because it would not accept any touch up finish on top of it. Fortunately, it's rare, but it's still out there. Be aware that the oak's grain will telegraph through an opaque finish. Just be aware of this. In repairing fire damage to vinyl end panels, I've scraped off the damaged stuff, applied a self stick veneer, sanded and finished. That is some nice rehab work. FlGatorwood, Cal and Fred W. Hargis Jr 3 Quote
kmealy Posted October 22, 2020 Report Posted October 22, 2020 On 10/20/2020 at 8:24 PM, Gunny said: That is some nice rehab work. Thanks Cal and Gunny 2 Quote
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