Wood for a Rip Fence Extension?

[ehbowen]

I've just received a molder set and dado set; I'm planning to use them on my Shopsmith Mark V/500. I'm wanting to build a rip fence (vertical) extension which can also be used as a sacrificial for work right up against the fence. Right now I'm planning to use a 1 x 8 x 2' piece of lumber and dado out a 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep slot lengthwise where I can mount a pair of featherboards to help control the work as it moves past the heads. I have one featherboard from Shopsmith already; I was planning to mount that horizontally before the blade. Last I checked Rockler had some featherboards on sale; I was going to get two from them and then cut my slot so that they come down within 1/2" of the saw table at maximum extension.

 

First question: Does this sound like a good plan? Second question: What kind of wood would the more experienced hands here recommend? I should be able to get poplar for $7.88, oak for $11.28, and then of course there's always whitewood or softwood. I'm new at this and I'll always be able to go back and re-do it in the future if necessary, but what would the old hands suggest to a beginner?

[Gene Howe]

Due to the seasonal unpredictability of solid wood, I use Baltic Birch for jigs and fences. 

Your hold down arrangement is good. But, you'd be safer with another one on the table just before the blade. The Shopsmith ones that set in the miter groove are excellent. 

 

 

[ehbowen]

Well, I went with what was available at Big Blue Box; the poplar. It's not like this is a lifetime investment.

 

Here I am set up for molding:

 

Some lessons learned:

 

• It is much easier to make a dado which was too small a little wider than to make a dado which was too large a little narrower ...especially when you are using a Shopsmith with adjustable quill feed! (Fortunately, the board had two sides....)
• I am afraid that my table is out of true by a noticeable amount, and I've followed the alignment instructions to the letter. I could take out the Dremel tool and try wallowing out the inside of my carriage trunnions, but I think that I'll first call the factory and see if they have any suggestions.
• When you go to the trouble of setting up a shop vac and Dustopper for dust collection, remember to turn it on before cutting...
• Any day when you make a lot of sawdust and spill no blood is a good day. This was a good day!

 

[Gene Howe]

Do you have the flat sanding disc? You can mount it on the Smith, lower the table to mid point of the disc. Run the table up to it. You should be able to see if the table is out of alignment, that way. If it is, just loosen the trunnion bolts under the table and adjust as needed.

[ehbowen]

15 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Do you have the flat sanding disc? You can mount it on the Smith, lower the table to mid point of the disc. Run the table up to it. You should be able to see if the table is out of alignment, that way. If it is, just loosen the trunnion bolts under the table and adjust as needed.

Already tried that. I've hit the limits of the adjustment, and the table is still out of true left-right. Clamp a rod (Allen handle) in the miter gauge touching the saw blade on the front side, run it to the back side, and there's about a 1/32" gap...maybe a little more. Already checked the saw blade for flatness. Actually, two different saw blades on two different arbors; one of the arbors and one of the blades was brand new, never used. Same result.

 

It was much worse when I first bought the machine, over a 1/8" gap. I loosened the trunnion bolts and tapped the table as far counterclockwise as it would go. But I hit the limits of adjustment, and that's where I stand at the moment.

[Gene Howe]

10 hours ago, ehbowen said:

 

 

It was much worse when I first bought the machine, over a 1/8" gap. I loosened the trunnion bolts and tapped the table as far counterclockwise as it would go. But I hit the limits of adjustment, and that's where I stand at the moment.

You might try the brain trust over on the Shopsmith forum before you break out the Dremel. There are a good number of threads over there that are devoted to table alignment. Good luck!