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Not a good day today.  The switch on my table saw went out in the off position.  The saw is 21 yrs. old this yr.  I had replaced the switch 5 yrs. ago.  It was difficult to obtain because the saw is a Delta.  I had my notes and ordered the same replacement switch.  The switch was ordered from REPLACEMENT PARTS.com.  They indicated that it will be 18-21 days for them to receive the switch from Delta warehouse and I paid to have 3-day turn-around from REPLACEMENT PARTS.  This is all predicated that Delta really does have the part.  I have been down this path before when I tried to get a replacement part for my refrigerator and ended up cancelling my order.  Maybe a good time to purchase a SawStop.  Wow.  $3K for an on/off switch.     Danl

 

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Just looked at the diagrams for that saw. The switch looks very much like the one used on their lathes. I went through 2 switches then finally went to Lowe’s and bought a single throw double pole electrical switch. It worked but I couldn’t use the red off paddle 

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Just now, lew said:

Just looked at the diagrams for that saw. The switch looks very much like the one used on their lathes. I went through 2 switches then finally went to Lowe’s and bought a single throw double pole electrical switch. It worked but I couldn’t use the red off paddle 

Thanks for the advise.  It may be my go-to switch.  I do not know how long I can go without a table saw.  Danl

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My opinion is that the red paddle put stress on the switch mechanism causing it to fail. The defective switch can be disassembled and the internal parts put back in place- the internal parts aren’t broken. The switch should work for a while- at least mine did. But after the second one broke, I went with the DPST electrical wall switch 

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I now see the problem.  It got a little hot.  Burned the white lead from the motor.  Gunny, your switch looks like the same one.  OEM p/n is 438-01-317-0127.  Replacement p/n is 438010170206s.  Thanks   Lew, thank you for all the advise.  Can there be a temporary fix?  Danl

 

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There is a temporary fix but I'll say up front IT MAY NOT BE THE BEST SOLUTION AND IS ONLY TEMPORARY-

 

This is a Double Pole switch. It breaks both the Hot (Black) and Neutral (White). The neutral wire does not have any voltage on it and , if the shop is wired correctly, should be the same potential as ground. You can connect the loose white wire to the white wire still connected to the switch. This configuration will allow the saw to be used.

 

My concern here is why the terminal burned off. I may have been a poorly made connection at the rivet which would have caused arcing and heat. In which case, my suggestion would be a temporary repair until you can replace the switch.

 

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN AND DON'T EVEN PLAY ONE ON TV!

 

My background is in electronics

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15 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I think those saws were convertible voltage (120V/240V)...you don't have yours wired 240V do you? if you do, don't try Lew's suggestion...the white will be hot.

Thank you Fred for the warning/advise.  No, I have it wired for 120V.  The OEM switch lasted 16 yrs.  The replacement lasted 5 yrs.  I'm not in a position for a new saw and this one meets my needs.  I noticed that the replacement switch fits many different pieces of equipment.  Many probably do not get used as much as a TS.  Danl

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