Hello everyone, question about decking.  I currently have a deck on my house that we bought two years ago, and it looks ... ok.  It was hastily built by the previous owners and now it just doesn't work for me.  I would like to redo the decking on the existing deck.  Now, in addition, I want to add a ground level deck off the existing deck.  The existing deck is approximately 36-42" off the ground.  My question (or one of them for now) is can I attach a ledger board to the footers for the existing deck and use deck blocks for the front?  I don't have exact dimensions yet, but the new deck will likely be the same width as the existing deck and probably 10-12 feet long.  Sorry if I forgot anything or sound jumbled, A lot of ideas in my head for this and they are all over the place.

Maybe someone else has better experience but deck blocks on the ground to hold a 10-12 ft long deck?  I am thinking sagging will be an issue.  I used them at my Dad's place per his instructions.  The door would not open after a year. He played with it for a year before we raised it up and set concrete pads in place for the blocks to sit on.

8 minutes ago, Gunny said:

I am thinking sagging will be an issue.  

Well, I would have multiple blocks throughout.  I am also not opposed to doing footers, but would i set the posts in the concrete or on top?

2 minutes ago, Shaun8484 said:

Well, I would have multiple blocks throughout.  I am also not opposed to doing footers, but would i set the posts in the concrete or on top?

They make metal brackets that a threaded rod installed when pouring footer can be used to lock them to concrete. Then that attaches to a 4x4 or 6x6.  I didn't use that method on mine. Stayed traditional and dug hole then made form around post.  But I came 2 inches higher than ground level to protect the support.  Of course your area might have a particular code to abide by.  Always fun reading through that stuff.

+1 about @Gunny's comment on codes. You don't want to build the extension only to have to tear it up.

 

Replacing the decking shouldn't be a problem other than deciding on the materials. A lot of folks like the new composite materials, but, one word of caution- if the deck is in a sunny location, the composite get very hot on bare feet. 

 

Having just gone through the nightmare of "fixing" the problems caused by our "maybe hastily built" "definitely poorly planned" rear deck, I would suggest you give the existing deck a very thorough inspection before adding to it.  I had to replace the rim joist on the house because of improper installation and resulting rot.

 

That said, to answer your question, you should be able to attach the ledger board to the existing deck.  I agree with Gunny on those deck blocks.  You need to get your posts or foundation for your posts down below the frost line.  Dig your hole, pour the concrete, let it dry and set the post on top and pack with small size gravel.

Check the footing methods on other decks in your area.  That way you can get a quick idea if the blocks are commonly accepted or not.  A below ground post setting is commonly preferred. 

Thanks for the ideas guys, I wont be starting this project until late fall/winter time so maybe I can get a decent plan together by then.

9 minutes ago, Shaun8484 said:

Thanks for the ideas guys, I wont be starting this project until late fall/winter time so maybe I can get a decent plan together by then.

Do a project in progress post. As you go take pictures and post.  This way someone might see something and help you avoid a mistake or make an improvement as you go. Plus it gives others ideas to work with.

Post up a pic of what you have now, we might be able to give you some things to look at on the existing deck and offer suggestions for the new part to be added.

All sorry for my late reply.

Ground level decks on blocks are fine if the deck is large enough but flexible enough to accomodate frost heaving.

But ground level decks has another issue.

You must kill everything growing to about 3 ft outside the profile of the ground level deck.

Then you must put down a vapor block (probably 20 mil plastic on the bare ground. Then place your deck blocks then put down some washed clean gravel on top of that on the outside put your favorite durable ground cover (river stone, lava rock, more gravel...) Please also level the ground under the deck but have 1/8" per foot slope so that water drains well outside the deck.  Keeping the ground block dry is key to keeping the sub structure free from rot and mold.  Also when the ground underneath is kept dry the frost cannot heave it.  Also varmits do not like dry ground and rocks.  Also misquitoes do not like it either.  Good luck and please post pictures.

Thanks everyone, I will try to get some pictures up today or tomorrow.  The more I think about it, I think it is just easier and safer to just put in the footings. 

2 minutes ago, Shaun8484 said:

Thanks everyone, I will try to get some pictures up today or tomorrow.  The more I think about it, I think it is just easier and safer to just put in the footings. 

 

Some good and important advice @Michael Thuman posted.  I would add if you plan to paint the top of the deck then take some extra time and paint the bottom.  White works well for keeping down the bugs and such.  

 

On 5/21/2020 at 8:25 AM, Michael Thuman said:

Please also level the ground under the deck but have 1/8" per foot slope so that water drains well outside the deck.  Keeping the ground block dry is key to keeping the sub structure free from rot and mold.  Also when the ground underneath is kept dry the frost cannot heave it.  Also varmits do not like dry ground and rocks.  Also misquitoes do not like it either. 

This is what I’m working with...

 

In the picture below I circled where I am guessing you wish to add more deck?  Few questions on what you are thinking.  Give us more a what your minds eye sees.

 

1. Add will be same level as existing deck?

2. Add will be a lower level?

3. What did they use under the existing deck for stringers and sheathing?

 

Gunny, I want to add a lower level deck, probably 12-18” off the ground. My thought was to run a ledger board off the footed post for the original deck, run the rim joists out to a footed beam at the front with the joists running out from the original deck. 

Edited May 26, 20206 yr by Shaun8484

Well, change of plans, cant build out too far off the front due to the drain tiles for septic so now I am thinking of going off the corner (right front corner looking at pic above) and going out and around that way.

3 hours ago, Shaun8484 said:

Well, change of plans, cant build out too far off the front due to the drain tiles for septic so now I am thinking of going off the corner (right front corner looking at pic above) and going out and around that way.

Maybe not.  A deck can be "cantilevered' over the beam too.  You may want to look into that option.

 

1 hour ago, HandyDan said:

Maybe not.  A deck can be "cantilevered' over the beam too.  You may want to look into that option.

 

IIRC, the cantilever distance is L/4, where L is the total length of the joist - as of 5 years ago anyway.

2 hours ago, JimM said:

IIRC, the cantilever distance is L/4, where L is the total length of the joist - as of 5 years ago anyway.

Just to clarify - this would depend on the size of the joists as well as the spacing.  (Edit wasn't available!)  Additional information attached although there may be an update.