Hello all, just trying to get some ideas and have a few questions.  I have tried to search for the answer but with no results.  I am about to build some adirondak type chairs and would like to stain them gray.  First question, I have the Minwax classic gray but was wondering if there is a better gray stain or is minwax good?  I am looking for a mid to darker color of gray.  Second question, is polycrylic a good clear coat for exterior use?  The chairs will be outside 24/7.  If I used a polyurethane, would that change the color of the gray once dried? (any yellowing).

I tried the miniwax grey recently, not impressed.  Very light grey and in some cases depending on the wood hardly any color change.  Here is a storage box I made with that color.  The plywood took it okay but the top clear pine frame you can hardly see any color change.  These are coated with clear gloss poly.

 

 

 

What species of wood were you planning to use? Cedar will turn grey naturally and will last a long time without any finish as will cyprus.

I am just using pine 2x4's

1 minute ago, Shaun8484 said:

I am just using pine 2x4's

With pine, make sure you seal the ends that come in contact with the ground. Something like Anchor Seal or similar to prevent moisture from wicking up thru the end grain.

 

With Governor Hogan's lock down it's kinda hard to get to places to check out the various products. I've use Sherwin Williams outdoor furniture stains but they are more like a paint than a stain. 

Cannot tell you about Polycrylic and outdoors but probably not a good thing. Polyurethane will yellow anything applied to and with age yellow more. It hold up to weather ok but sun will make it peal after 1 year in the full sun. Also helpful if they are covered in the winter . 

     Now as to pine : it will not hold up well to weather and sun , better if it is treated pine. As Lew said Cedar or Cypress will be a better choice of woods. Add to that Ipe $$$.

1 hour ago, lew said:

With pine, make sure you seal the ends that come in contact with the ground. Something like Anchor Seal or similar to prevent moisture from wicking up thru the end grain.

If you are going to use regular pine 2x4's clear caulk will do same thing.  No sense in wasting money on expensive treatments for run of the mill pine.

 

54 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Polyurethane will yellow anything applied to and with age yellow more.

If you look at this it is not a light problem.  The poly has yellowed as it has aged.  Normal for poly.  This particular cabinet is finished with Rustoleum Aluminum colored paint.  I like it for the look nothing more.  But it is flat and has to have some covering to be able to wipe down and not leave streaks.  

 

 

57 minutes ago, Gerald said:

It hold up to weather ok but sun will make it peal after 1 year in the full sun.

 

These were new last summer, have to see how they hold up over time.  They have 3 coats of brushed on Helmsman Gloss Urethane.  As @Gerald said they may not last for more than 1 year.  Part of this design is that the legs come off to accommodate refinishing.

 

Use gray composite decking boards and they won't need staining.  Wash them off every year and good to go.  Won't blow away in the wind either. 

Edited May 13, 20206 yr by HandyDan

If this were my project I would use a good solid color deck stain (it is more like paint) or simply use paint to begin with.  If you can get oil base paint, that is what I would use.

Just now, Cal said:

If this were my project I would use a good solid color deck stain (it is more like paint) or simply use paint to begin with.  If you can get oil base paint, that is what I would use.

Yes oil base will hold up better. In my experience anyway. All the cat house / saw horses I made are oil based paint and then Urethane.

1 minute ago, Gunny said:

Yes oil base will hold up better. In my experience anyway. All the cat house / saw horses I made are oil based paint and then Urethane.

Hey Gunny, what do you think the urethane top coat adds to the oil base paint?  I have several pieces of furniture out in the woods that were painted with Rustoleum oil base paint several years ago.  All made from PT pine.  The picnic table still looks great.  Most of the benches could stand to be repainted again.  I may try to do them this year.

2 minutes ago, Cal said:

Hey Gunny, what do you think the urethane top coat adds to the oil base paint?  I have several pieces of furniture out in the woods that were painted with Rustoleum oil base paint several years ago.  All made from PT pine.  The picnic table still looks great.  Most of the benches could stand to be repainted again.  I may try to do them this year.

Not sure I never have top coated oil base paint except the Rust-Oleum aluminum color. And then only because it is flat finish and easy to scratch

If using oil base paint, how long until it fully cures?  Also thank you everyone for your input, giving me a lot to consider.

48 minutes ago, Shaun8484 said:

If using oil base paint, how long until it fully cures?  Also thank you everyone for your input, giving me a lot to consider.

Here is my approach.  Dries in few hours depending on temperature humidity etc etc.

 

As you asked for cure time I apply this method 5 days in the sun if I can get it.

 

Probably not in instructions but you can't go wrong waiting that much time. Plus the sunlight cooks it some.  Just did my work bench. Same method.

 

Let others post advice before just taking off. I am certainly no expert.  Just giving out my method and experience.

One other thing- use construction adhesive on all the connections

Polycrylic is mostly acrylic with a splash of urethane.  It is water-borne so will dry clearer than amber oil-based urethane.   Neither would be my first choice for outdoor use.  Minwax site says polycrylic is for interior use.

Edited May 14, 20206 yr by kmealy

3 hours ago, Shaun8484 said:

If using oil base paint, how long until it fully cures?  Also thank you everyone for your input, giving me a lot to consider.

I actually just painted 2 teak rocking chairs with an oil base paint. These will live outside. I primed them with SW Exterior Oil Based wood primer, that was brushed on (uggh!) and it took about 48 hours to dry enough to handle them. Then I top coated them with SW SWP Exterior Gloss Oil Base paint tinted a light gray. This was sprayed and I applied 2 coats. Both coats are dry to the touch in 24 hours in moderate temps. I suspect to be fully cured will be a few more weeks, but you can sit on them now and I just sprayed the second coat yesterday. If you opt for a clear finish, that article Keith linked is worth a read. The one thing about it is that in terms of products it's a little dated. The Olympic oil base isn't generally available (at least not around me) and finding another one is my current search. I tried the SWP but in the Ultra deep base, it doesn't dry clear on darker woods.

Dry time depends on temperature and air movement.   Maybe to a lesser amount humidity (dew point).

Thanks for all the ideas everyone.  So if I wanted to use a gray stain like minwax or varathane, what would be the best top coat for them to live outside and not turn yellow?