I built a replacement assembly table, my old one was over 15 years old and was showing some serious wear and tear. For the new one I planned on putting a sacrificial surface on it (1/4" hardboard) to maybe make it last a little longer. Now I'm rethinking this. Do you use one? How is it fastened? what is it (material)? To me, a bench is made to be used, and if it gets a little damaged that's part of the job. But I always wonder about the sacrificial top. I used to watch the Woodsmith Shop show and always marveled at their wonderful workbench, but they treated it like fine furniture...almost never did anything on it without it being covered by something.

On the bench for my paint cabinet I use a tarp with snaps on the front edge to hold it in place. Other benches nothing. Might be a good idea though. Maybe a 1/2 ply cover with lip over edge banding to keep it on table. Gets bad easy to replace.

I'm like you. A work surface is made to be used. 

 

This is mine- although I would like to make it with an interior door- it's a "lazy susan" type of top so I can easily swivel the project instead of walking halfway around the shop to get to another vantage point. It sets on 2 saw horses.

 

 

 

I added a peg locking system to keep it stationary, if needed.

 

About the only thing that I need to clean off are glue drops and a paint scraper takes care of that.

I guess I lied, I do cover my tables with plastic (or something) if I'm finishing on them...otherwise they take the brunt of whatever I'm doing.

I have hardboard on my workbench. It is in a recess and the result is the edges are flush with surrounding trim. It is attached only with brass screws flush fit. As to protecting the protection I use Steve Mickleys formula:   Turpentine

                             BLO

                             Bees Wax 

With this on the top glue just pops off.

I have noticed that most here have wooden tops. This I do not have. All mine are covered in Formica.  Easy to clean stuff off.  These days I will buy a sheet for a new project. But you can get table tops at 2nd hand places or yard sales cheap. Most you would need is a strip of Formica for the edges.

 

A suggestion anyway.

Well, I do have laminate on a number of surfaces in the shop, but not on my bench or assembly table. One fear I have (that may be incorrect) is that the fine edge tools like chisels may be damaged if they slip into the laminate.....but I love laminate for my TS outfeed table (it's actually a piece of kitchen counter top form a house we had some years ago) and the tops of my rolling cabinets, router table, etc. In any case, this one is done....but the laminate might be a candidate if I have to replace it.

 

Gerald, I use that BLO/Beeswax mix on my bench and assembly table, like you said the glue pops right off and it's easy to renew it.

 

I had several sq. ft. of Lumber Liquidators' prefinished bamboo laminate left from when we did our floors. Used it on a floor cabinet top where light mechanical work is done. Oil, cleaning fluids, grease, etc. don't faze it. Wipes right off. If I ever get around to redoing my WW bench/table, I'll certainty consider using it. 

Home Depot carries hardwood underlayment that you may want to look at.

 

41 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

I had several sq. ft. of Lumber Liquidators' prefinished bamboo laminate left from when we did our floors. Used it on a floor cabinet top where light mechanical work is done. Oil, cleaning fluids, grease, etc. don't faze it. Wipes right off. If I ever get around to redoing my WW bench/table, I'll certainty consider using it. 

Now that sounds like a good idea to try.

I used stiff cardboard at work that we got pallets of for restaurant bench backs. The pieces were 55x42 I think. Put put them on about twice a year with a wire stapler.

 

At home .....nobody is paying me so I don't waste the time. I changed the PB top to a hickory recently. I don't do anything  on it as well. 

Edited March 28, 20206 yr by BillyJack

My benchtop is my sacrificial cover for my floor.

 

My first benchtop was a pocket door on sawhorses.  The same pocket door now rests on a wheeled table base, but is still my main work surface after about 16 years.  Sanded, filled some holes, repainted.  For almost a year I had a foam cover; I also tried brown paper, plastic table cloths.  My intention was always that the pocket door itself was sacrificial, but it has never worn to the point of replacement, so it has the place of pride as the oldest thing in the shop.

 

Except for me.

My bench is a solid core door from a bank makeover and is quite old.  I have an old steel desk as the stand for it so it is quite stable.  I try not to abuse it but stuff happens.  I still have the option to turn it over but then I'd have to clear it off to do so and that is too much like work.

It's character fred. unless there's something like paint, finish or other, sand it off and carry on.

I am a fan of a double layer of particle board. I abuse it and periodically replace the top layer. I use screws to attach the two layers together then drill a 3/8 hole next to each screw, glue a dowel in and sand flush. After the glue dries remove the screws so there are no screws to run blades or router bits into. When it comes time to replace the top layer use a 1/2” Brad point to drill out the dowels and reattach a new top layer. Makes for a really solid and inexpensive work top. 
Paul

The work benches are like my router table I made it thick so that when the laminate wears out (next 20 years) the top can be flipped and the insert will drop right in the exact same place.  For a work table I prefer laminate over a solid substrate and then wax the laminate (formica) and nothing sticks.  As for planes steel is harder than laminate and when I put down a plane I am careful to set the cutting side away from the table top.  When I was careless the plane irion cut right thru the laminate with no problem.  Please make sure your substrate is very flat.

 

Edited April 3, 20206 yr by Michael Thuman

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

The work benches are like my router table I made it thick so that when the laminate wears out (next 20 years) the top can be flipped and the insert will drop right in the exact same place.  For a work table I prefer laminate over a solid substrate and then wax the laminate (formica) and nothing sticks.  As for planes steel is harder than laminate and when I put down a plane I am careful to set the cutting side away from the table top.  When I was careless the plane irion cut right thru the laminate with no problem.  Please make sure your substrate is very flat.

 

Formica is my preference as well. Not to hard to work with. Nobody mentioned so far so I will add I frame my MDF or plywood with 3/4 surround. Stronger and easier to glue the Formica.

I won't use laminate for a work surface. I've seen it used before . Too many hours means too many problems...

 

I'll pass

1 hour ago, BillyJack said:

I won't use laminate for a work surface. I've seen it used before . Too many hours means too many problems...

 

I'll pass

I got 27 years and still good with mine.  Have 4 more that are 15-17 years old. Only Formica I ever had issue with was some service desk from work. Peeled off badly even before I got them.  Guess was cheap glue.  

too much drilling into the table or laminate breaking on the edges caused too many problems over the years..we used laminated tops for commercial cabinetry and they were fine.

 

building furniture pieces on my personal bench, no and ill pass...