Simple enough title.   Thinking maybe build a box from the results?   For right now, this will be about turning thick scraps into thin scraps..and the steps I use..

First, rounded up a few likely suspects..

Then set up the tablesaw.  Wanted to saw a kerf all around each piece....helps with the handsaw part.   had to check the blade..

Run the blade all the way up, use a square to check for any tilt...no gaps seen.   That red plate sit lower than the surrounding top, and has a wide opening..too wide.  So.

I use a "Zero Clearance Overlay" of 5mm plywood.   Slot was cut by the blade.   Then, lay a fence on top..

Set the height of the blade above the plywood to 1"....then set the width between the fence and the blade to just a hair under 3/8", and clamp everything in place..

Check to make sure things are aligned up square..and..

We are ready to go....made 4 passes on the wider scraps..

making sure the board doesn't lean either left or right.   The skinny scraps?  just 2 passes and done..

Which meant the special push stick was needed...

The "blade" on this handsaw is a plywood strip, with a notch.  Plywood blade is fitted to an old saw handle...keeps me fingers safe.

Now, I could use the bandsaw to finish the cuts...

But the blades seem to burn their way through..

Too much work to smooth out...there ARE other ways..

And get a Cardio Workout to boot...and even some actual Saw Dust..

Which leaves a few saw marks..

Which means I have to turn this into..

This.    We have ways..

And another Cardio Workout, to boot.  Whew.    Once I get all these planed flat and smooth, I can start to lay out to build a box, with a few drawers?

 

Lowes has thin "Project" boards...cost a bit, and they only have Pine, Poplar, or Oak in stock...and not any Ash.  Thinking something like the project Paul Sellers is working on, maybe add a second drawer? 

 

There you have it, how I get thin stock, from thick.   Beats planing away 1/4" of wasted stock.  And..I am a bit ..cheap, er...Frugal.

 

Do I continue with a box build here...or..start a new thread? 

Stay tuned

Like the zero clearance insert idea! Thanks!!

2 hours ago, lew said:

Like the zero clearance insert idea! Thanks!!

Hello lew

The throat on my TS is an oblong oval that sits down flush in a recessed seat. I made two zero clearance inserts, one for tall cuts and one for short cuts. I can pop them in and out very easily. I installed set screws to adjust flush to table. A pin at one end keep it from jumping up. 

hat

43 minutes ago, hatuffej said:

Hello lew

The throat on my TS is an oblong oval that sits down flush in a recessed seat. I made two zero clearance inserts, one for tall cuts and one for short cuts. I can pop them in and out very easily. I installed set screws to adjust flush to table. A pin at one end keep it from jumping up. 

hat

Thanks!!!

Steven, thanks for the excellent information concerning resawing. One thing that you should do is to keep the same face of the board to the fence on all cuts, that way you have at least 1 uniformed thicknessed board to work with.

Did it that way every time....

20 minutes in the shop...made a mess (photos might be a bit large )

The 3 culprits?

Yes, the #62 did get used, as did the Millers Falls No.14 Jack plane, and the Stanley #3, type 11....got about half of the boards planed, before I ran out of "Go get them"

Some needed both faces done...and...do you think this one might be too big?

Stanley No. 6c, Type 10 ( 2 patent dates)   Maybe too wide?

Thanks, Steve, for showing this.  I have wanted to do it several times but was not sure it would work.  You have given me the courage to do it on my bandsaw as long as the board is no more than 6 inches wide.  

Great tutorial Steven.  I vote for a new thread on a new build...

Gator, a good 1/2" or 5/8" blade is the key for resawing with our machines. Some guys say they use a 3/8" but, I'm not that good.