When you create a peice of furniture you sometimes use a back of 1/4" ply.  

Do you glue or nail it in place?

Do you prefinish it and the rest of the peice so that you can spray the interior ?

Do you fasten it in place to act as a squaring device then after the glue drys in the frame remove it for finishing later on?

I am finishing up my daughters curio cabinet and think it should go this way.

1. cut to fit but do not install.

2. Fiinish the face and sides of the peices and spray if desired.

3. Finish the plywood back.

4. Install the back with Nails to allow some wood movement.

 

I have used a pneumatic stapler for some.  Some I screwed on in case I would need to remove it for some reason.

I have mostly nailed/stapled the backs in place. Depending on the carcass material (solid or ply), determines if it is glued. 

 

Using the back for squaring purposes is something I do. In this case I use a couple of nails to hold in place until the carcass dries. 

 

As for finishing, I'm the world's worst finisher. I can't offer any suggestions on this.

It depends on the use of the piece for the back . If a tall bookcase I will glue and brad in for added strength. Same if it will be moved glue is good.

As to finish there is no doubt as the the fact that prefinishing  is the way to go. I would assemble the carcass and clamp the back on till he glue dries then remove back and do finish work. This will stop all that overspray from flashing back onto a finished surface.

@Gerald, thanks, I always installed the back first then finished after complete. From here on out, I'll finish the back before assembly, I always hated flashback, what a simple way to avoid it! Duh! All these years!

When I spray my finish, I try to design the project so that I apply the finish with the back off.  This method allow it easier to not over spray the corners.  Danl  

I have built a few bookcases and I always cut to fit, do a dry fit, and finish the inside before installing with only brads.  I never use screws of any kind nor do I apply glue.  So many times, it get broken at some point so I want it to be removed easily and replaced.  Future owners may wish to change the finish.  I have dadoed a couple and cut to fit but still do the dry fit and then finish the inside.  Just the way I do it.  I don't think there are any FBI coming to inspect.  

Thanks all my question was to prompt a discussion and find various reasons.  

Gerald evidently spays his finish.  But even if you wipe it on you still will then have strips of unfinished back when the board shrink that is why I always finish the back first.  In my case there are no fixed shelves but we all have seen wood move so you do not want strips of unfinished wood appearing.

 

Plywood is both stong and stable (even 1/4")  therefore if you cut it square (all 4 corners) then you can use it as a fitment tool.  But be aware that finished edges from the manufactured are supposed to be square but rarely are.

 

Regardless of the construction method one of the easiest way to keep your case from racking after construction is to glue your back in place.   What I have done is to put down a glue line in the dado for the back then spread it around then put on my peice and nail it off to act as the clamp while wiping any glue squeeze out form the inside.  As Gerald also wrote it is very good for tall narrow items such as book cases or if you are moving the furniture.  Well if this is a frestanding peice it will always be moved.  Therefore unless you are building built ins I would glue and nail/staple the backs.

 Thanks for Participating.

Its best to screw the back on in case you ever want to refinish it especially if you spray the finish on … spray does not like to go in to the corners very good.

  Back when they made furniture out of wood most good brands were screwed on ….you will get the wrong advise on this but they are not well informed either.

I have always used thin ply and screwed the back on with finish washers in place and if i'm worried about it being up against a wall i will cover them with thin felt.   maybe overkill, but i like being able to remove/re-do if necessary.

Depends upon the items size, and use along with the sturdiness of the carcass.

For my PC Desk project I'll be using a combination of dado grooves along the vertical sides created using mouldings to hide the plywood edges along with brass screws and finish washers to attach the back to the horizontal cross shelves. This back needs to be removable for cable access, etc..

The back I'll be using will be refinished as I'm recycling the back from a discarded bookcase. (One of those where they used a good plywood back with particle board sides, shelves, etc..)