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Ron Altier

Home wiring complaints

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 The house we live in was built around 1990 give or take a few.  Honestly, I have NEVER seen a home constructed of such poor quality material, including all the wood. That is NOT my complaint today.

When they built the kitchen and wired it, they didn't allow space for the  backing behind the stove and countertop. The outlet boxes are back a half inch. So they jury rigged it. My wife has been complaining about the plugs being so recessed that todays USB plugs w/transformer will not plug in deep enough to get power. I found out they make a spacer kit with plastic pieces to correct this. Wood spacers would be OK too. What I found was 2" wood screws holding the outlet in and spacer junk that fell out when I loosened it. I have found many other mass production coverup jobs too. The really good part about this is that the value of this house has more than doubled in 10 years. 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Artie said:

The boxes are supposed to be attached to structural members (studs).

Not sure if this is code or not but this is how I have fixed this problem and also added outlets with closed walls.  I make a wooden L bracket and screw into stud.  The back is cut to be exactly as need for a flush mount.  Install metal box to the L bracket and wire outlet.  Takes some time but have used many times.

 

Sorry no pictures, some projects just get done and I move on...:Laughing:

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Thanks Artie, I didn't know just what was code, but figured what I found was NOT code. I did luck out with one of the outlets, her can opener would not work at the outlet. I bent the plug prongs and fixed that one.

 

One question, Why would plastic spacers comply with code and wood spacers not? Both are combustible.

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Plastic is code here.  It may be to do with the humiggity.  When we had our house re-wired in 2004, all boxes are plastic.  And, yes, all outlet and light boxes are secured to a stud or ceiling joist.  Since, then I have had to replace one light switch and one GCFI outlet.  It feels good to know your wiring was inspected and passed and it is relatively new.  And, I am not electrician.  I have no ideas about codes, really.  :)

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12 hours ago, Ron Altier said:

Thanks Artie, I didn't know just what was code, but figured what I found was NOT code. I did luck out with one of the outlets, her can opener would not work at the outlet. I bent the plug prongs and fixed that one.

 

One question, Why would plastic spacers comply with code and wood spacers not? Both are combustible.

The UL listed plastic extenders are not combustible, the plastic will melt, but not burst into flame.  I’m not aware of what states go by NEC, use it as a baseline, or ignore it completely. Plastic and metal boxes are both UL listed and NEC acceptable, for homes the plastic ones are cheaper, and quicker to install, but both are acceptable by the NEC. Now mass. takes the NEC, makes their own changes to it, and pass it as Mass code, it’s also law, you can be prosecuted for violations. 

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10 hours ago, DuckSoup said:

I believe this is what @Artie is speaking of. Quick solution to the problem. Measure from the face of the box to the face of the wall and add ¾ for the screw length. You can leave the wires attached to the receptacle, providing they are long enough & slip the box extension right over it.

 

boxextt.jpg.f48a21b0205dc61f1bf1ef9ae91e671d.jpg

That gives you the proper box extension with no exposure to combustionable material, BUT you will still need to washer out the screws, to flush with the wall, because the plastic insert just floats. Hope I explained that in a way that people can follow.

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