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I find that I probably be swimming upstream here-- but here goes. It is my belief that a splitter on a saw is the most important safety device one can utilize. Like many I do not use the blade guard----in place of which many shop made push sticks and related safety devices are used. Also I have made blade inserts each of which carries its own splitter. For thin kerf blades specific splitters are necessary---also the same for zero clearance blade inserts. As for binding and burning generally this blade condition, splitter alignment, blade alignment, or fence setting. Over the years my practice is to set the fence .005 out. Seems to work the best. I will add that I have been at this for over 50 years---works for me.

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20 hours ago, Marv Rall said:

I find that I probably be swimming upstream here-- but here goes. It is my belief that a splitter on a saw is the most important safety device one can utilize. Like many I do not use the blade guard----in place of which many shop made push sticks and related safety devices are used. Also I have made blade inserts each of which carries its own splitter. For thin kerf blades specific splitters are necessary---also the same for zero clearance blade inserts. As for binding and burning generally this blade condition, splitter alignment, blade alignment, or fence setting. Over the years my practice is to set the fence .005 out. Seems to work the best. I will add that I have been at this for over 50 years---works for me.

Preaching to the choir Marv, not upstream at all! Sound safety practices mentioned in your post, I like my fence set out as well.

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Confirmed the splitter is causing the bind.  Just did a rip with no wood on the left side of the blade with a feather board and a push stick.  It cut flawlessly and left no marks on the wood.  

Now I ask I have never feed wood so badly that it kicked back so do I need a splitter or a splitter with a blade guard?  If so go get the same one from Delta or find another where?

 

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On 4/29/2019 at 10:03 PM, CharlieL said:

Link to the Owners Manual              http://www.mikestools.com/download/DeltaTableSawManuals/36-444.pdf

Thanks the allignment process is straight forward however if any of the metal is bent that getting it back to straight will probably not be worth the effort.

 

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1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

if any of the metal is bent that getting it back to straight will probably not be worth the effort.

Probably true unless you work with metal anyway.  I would just order correct new, unbent part and move forward.  :)

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The splitter or riving knife might not be lined up with your blade.

A good riving knife is thin and made from spring steel.

I've seen times when you might need to put a thin washer

on one side or the other beside your saw blade to line it up.

A good riving knife is really hard to bend. Some riving knife's 

are just to thick for thin kerf blades.

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