I made a paddle switch so I can kick it, bump it or otherwise touch in has a finger hole to start.

I find that I probably be swimming upstream here-- but here goes. It is my belief that a splitter on a saw is the most important safety device one can utilize. Like many I do not use the blade guard----in place of which many shop made push sticks and related safety devices are used. Also I have made blade inserts each of which carries its own splitter. For thin kerf blades specific splitters are necessary---also the same for zero clearance blade inserts. As for binding and burning generally this blade condition, splitter alignment, blade alignment, or fence setting. Over the years my practice is to set the fence .005 out. Seems to work the best. I will add that I have been at this for over 50 years---works for me.

20 hours ago, Marv Rall said:

I find that I probably be swimming upstream here-- but here goes. It is my belief that a splitter on a saw is the most important safety device one can utilize. Like many I do not use the blade guard----in place of which many shop made push sticks and related safety devices are used. Also I have made blade inserts each of which carries its own splitter. For thin kerf blades specific splitters are necessary---also the same for zero clearance blade inserts. As for binding and burning generally this blade condition, splitter alignment, blade alignment, or fence setting. Over the years my practice is to set the fence .005 out. Seems to work the best. I will add that I have been at this for over 50 years---works for me.

Preaching to the choir Marv, not upstream at all! Sound safety practices mentioned in your post, I like my fence set out as well.

Confirmed the splitter is causing the bind.  Just did a rip with no wood on the left side of the blade with a feather board and a push stick.  It cut flawlessly and left no marks on the wood.  

Now I ask I have never feed wood so badly that it kicked back so do I need a splitter or a splitter with a blade guard?  If so go get the same one from Delta or find another where?

 

Link to the Owners Manual              http://www.mikestools.com/download/DeltaTableSawManuals/36-444.pdf

Edited April 30, 20197 yr by CharlieL

On 4/29/2019 at 8:03 PM, CharlieL said:

Link to the Owners Manual              http://www.mikestools.com/download/DeltaTableSawManuals/36-444.pdf

Good link Charlie, but what caught my eye even more was the website "Mikes Tools", never been there before but what a supply they got!

On 4/29/2019 at 10:03 PM, CharlieL said:

Link to the Owners Manual              http://www.mikestools.com/download/DeltaTableSawManuals/36-444.pdf

Thanks the allignment process is straight forward however if any of the metal is bent that getting it back to straight will probably not be worth the effort.

 

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

if any of the metal is bent that getting it back to straight will probably not be worth the effort.

Probably true unless you work with metal anyway.  I would just order correct new, unbent part and move forward.  

Just a thought----Maybe using thin kerf blade with original blade guard splitter? 

27 minutes ago, Marv Rall said:

Just a thought----Maybe using thin kerf blade with original blade guard splitter? 

Or the opposite thin kerf splitter with standard blade.  

On 4/7/2019 at 6:52 PM, Gerald said:

I made a paddle switch so I can kick it, bump it or otherwise touch in has a finger hole to start.

Gerald, I really like the supports that you built to the left of the TS, are the top darkened areas leather?

3 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

Or the opposite thin kerf splitter with standard blade.  

Well the splitter is the blade guard and they cannot be seperated.

So any third party suggestions?

1 hour ago, John Morris said:

Gerald, I really like the supports that you built to the left of the TS, are the top darkened areas leather?

HDPE I think these are from Wood plans. The HDPE has the ends slopped and is placed in a groove.

Michael,

After looking at the owners manual pdf.  the splitter mounting bracket may have came loose, or might be slightly bent.

The splitter or riving knife might not be lined up with your blade.

A good riving knife is thin and made from spring steel.

I've seen times when you might need to put a thin washer

on one side or the other beside your saw blade to line it up.

A good riving knife is really hard to bend. Some riving knife's 

are just to thick for thin kerf blades.