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I have a delta contractor saw (36-455 10" Contractors Saw Grand Edition White).  When riping the wood move away from the fence by about 1/8 to 1/4" .  The fence is parallel to the miter gage.  The saw blade is parallel to the slot.  The rip (forgive me) seperator can be installed on two side of a flat plate. It is on the outside.  When placed on the inside it binds the wood to the fence.  The installation drawing shows it as I have it on the outside.  It cuts parallel and true to the scale on the saw.  But will leave some burn marks on the sawn side.  What is not alligned properly?  How do I fix this.

 

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Well I  prep this way.

1. Joint 1 face.

2. Joint 1 edge 90 D to face.

3. Plane the wood to the desired thickness.

4. Rip with thte jointed edge against the fence.

5. Re-join the edge 

6. Rip again.

The fence that came with my saw is a giant T square type (Unifence) of fence that came with the saw but as I said the fence is parallel to the blade by .001.

 

Edited by Michael Thuman
Clairification

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9 minutes ago, CharlieL said:

I've had a Delta Contractor's table saw with a Unfence for many years with no complaints. Are you reading the board before ripping ?

Not sure what you mean by reading the board before riping?

Reading?

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Sounds like the splitter is not in alignment with the blade.  Take a straight edge and see it the front and back of the splitter is in alignment.  Roly

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7 hours ago, Dadio said:

I agree with Roly, rip a board without the splitter and see if it maintains tight to fence.

 

Herb

I will do and let you know.

 

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On 3/26/2019 at 8:16 AM, Michael Thuman said:

( Rip a board without the splitter and see if it maintains tight to fence. ) I will do and let you know.

 

 Out of curiosity, whats going on ? Find any answers to your problem, ?

Edited by CharlieL

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On 3/25/2019 at 6:50 PM, Michael Thuman said:

The rip (forgive me) separator can be installed on two side of a flat plate. It is on the outside.  When placed on the inside it binds the wood to the fence

it should be coplaner to the blade to the inside side of the blade..

straight edge the blade to the riving knife..

I belive to aren't coplaner or the knife is not matching the vertical of the blade (it's leaning over) or the knife has a twist to it...

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I have the same saw (since '05), and have had the same problem.  I took out the knife a long time ago.  I use a lot of horizontal and vertical featherboards for control of kickback.  I also tend to use designs that avoid heavy middle-of-board cuts ("off shelf" wood).  For a while, I put a piece of tape on the fence between front of table to blade entry point.  This tended to give the backside a bit more play, which didn't matter as long as the featherboard controlled the piece at the cut edge.

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Took that onerous riving knife off years ago. As Pete said, the use of various finger boards negates the need. Kick back and burning just doesn't occur for me. 

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I was ripping a piece of elm into 2 1/2" wide strips one time and was going good with a riving knife,until it clamped itself to the riving knife. The saw was bucking and burning and I was trying to reach the disconnect to shut it down and hold the board from kicking back. Pretty tense few seconds. Finally got the saw shut off and I had one heck of a time getting the board off that riving knife. That was the last time I used one.

 

Herb

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53 minutes ago, Dadio said:

and I was trying to reach the disconnect to shut it down and hold the board from kicking back.

I moved my factory switch from where it was to a location I had used my hip to shut the saw off.  Used large paddle switch for replacement of factory switch.

 

Liked this feature so much I used this switch on all equipment.

 

IMG_0624.JPG.c369c6fc661dcc2052642e7b2aaffdb4.JPG   IMG_0786.JPG.3e1c47c1d99f298baa44829ab2a32b25.JPG

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