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Posted

Sorry as I seemed to redirect from the original posting. This chair is actual an old children's rocking chair dated 1912 that was given to my Mother-in-Law as a yound child. My wife now has this chair and from the first time I remember seeing it the seat has been cracked. Further investigation shows the crack in probably the worst location as it goes through where the back post is attached. So from the attached pictures you can see the extent of the crack and it seems I would need to remove at least two of the screws on the bottom plate holding the bottom together, glue the crack and then clamp and screw it back down? Or is it maybe better to use a filler and try to match the finish? Maybe both? Add some filler with the glue? I've never attempted to repair this old a piece of furniture and being a family piece I'd really rather not mess it up. Just saying, the wife wouldn't say anything but I'd be highly disappointed in myself if I caused more harm than good. Her parents were very much family to me as well and they are both gone now. 

Mary's3.jpg

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Posted

that split has been repaired before I believe...

 

remove the purlin...

spread the split a fuzz...

clean out the old glue the best you can w/ a flat blade riffler...

glue, clamp and reinstall the purlin..

suggest you use weldbond for glue and not TB...

Posted

That is a beautiful chair and the crack adds character.  I would remove the added brace piece from the bottom and inspect the crack.  I may be wrong but it appears the seat and other parts of the chair have been antiqued (aka: painted with some antiquing paint).  With the brace removed inspect the crack to see if it is can be cleaned enough to be glued.  If not I would clean it up as best you can and glue and clamp it together using pocket hole technology and then remount the brace or better yet make a new larger brace. 

Posted

Is the cross support piece original to the chair?  There appear to be nine screws though it into the bottom of the seat with 3 on the "split" side.   I agree with removing it and trying to marginally open that split and clean it well of all old dirt, debris, and glue residue.

If you can get it cleaned to the point where a couple of clamps under moderate pressure can pull it closed with no glue, then you are probably ready to unclamp, reglue, and then clamp the heck out of it.   If you really, really want that brace back on; drill new holes in the split side and snug your screws into place.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, p_toad said:

If you really, really want that brace back on; drill new holes in the split side and snug your screws into place.

 

but don't glue the brace into place...

  • Like 2
Posted

Stick, just for those who look at this thread in the future, please explain your reasoning for weld glue vice Titebond.  I, too, would like to know.  Thank you.

Posted
15 minutes ago, FlGatorwood said:

Stick, just for those who look at this thread in the future, please explain your reasoning for weld glue vice Titebond.  I, too, would like to know.  Thank you.

I think it's a better adhesive...

stronger and has a longer open time...

  • Thanks 2
Posted

Never tried Weld Bond. But, because I trust your judgment, I will, now.

Posted
21 hours ago, Stick486 said:

I think it's a better adhesive...

Well the Tri Lube you told me about has worked well, so I am going with Weld Bond and see how it works.

Posted
3 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Well the Tri Lube

be careful w/ that stuff...

if you think you haven't used enough you have probably used waaaaaay too much....

Posted (edited)

At Stick's earlier recommendations I have been using Weldbond for my last few projects.  Cannot provide any long term benefits yet, but when the two smaller bottles run out the local Ace got me a larger bottle last time I needed some.  I do like that it goes on white and dries clear.

 

My first project with it was the guitar case I helped my nephew with a few months back.  Weldbond was suggested as it would not soften in high heat conditions.  A guitar case sitting in a hot car during the summer is kinda-sorta subject to high heat...

Edited by Cal
  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the PDF, Stick. Weld bond looks like something good to have around. Next time I'm in Ace, by golly.

Posted

I need to try the Weldbond on pen tubes.  It's a pain to mix epoxy for this job.

Posted

I have always used TBII and never had a fail, so will keep on using it, why ride another horse?

Herb

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