Stick486 Posted January 6, 2019 Report Posted January 6, 2019 Some of us have miter trimmer knives and sharpening the knives accurately can be a chore... I saw this iron sharpening jig elsewhere.. add drawer casters to it and adapt to hold the trimmer blades/irons and I believe you have solved an issue.. to add the caster.. ''wheel well'' for the caster wheels w/o the bracket and drift pin the wheels into place... twin keyhole/T slot the jig's face to make for adjustablity... Dadio and Cal 2 Quote
Stick486 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Report Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Stick486 said: I saw this iron sharpening jig elsewhere.. some additional after thoughts... add drawer casters to it and adapt to hold the trimmer blades/irons and I believe you have solved an issue.. to add the casters.. ''wheel wells'' for the caster wheels w/o the bracket and drift pin the wheels into place... cut the wheel well w/ a stacked slot cutter or do a dadoed grove in the bottom of the block and then you could leave the bracket on... attach the wheels as side mounted.. use small wheels w/ BB's in them in plain metal or tires... consider ball transfers... Use UHMW for the block... way more stable and stronger than wood... and when you parallel the keyhole/T slots in the taper you will be less likely to tear out the slot or brake it... to increase the versatility, over width the slots so you can ''pivot '' the knife a little if need be... comp this over widening w/ toilet bowl flange bolts.. Edited January 6, 2019 by Stick486 Quote
Gerald Posted January 7, 2019 Report Posted January 7, 2019 5 hours ago, Stick486 said: some additional after thoughts... add drawer casters to it and adapt to hold the trimmer blades/irons and I believe you have solved an issue.. to add the casters.. ''wheel wells'' for the caster wheels w/o the bracket and drift pin the wheels into place... cut the wheel well w/ a stacked slot cutter or do a dadoed grove in the bottom of the block and then you could leave the bracket on... attach the wheels as side mounted.. use small wheels w/ BB's in them in plain metal or tires... consider ball transfers... Use UHMW for the block... way more stable and stronger than wood... and when you parallel the keyhole/T slots in the taper you will be less likely to tear out the slot or brake it... to increase the versatility, over width the slots so you can ''pivot '' the knife a little if need be... comp this over widening w/ toilet bowl flange bolts.. Not sure I follow on the ball detent. If you use only one will that not cause the platform for tilt side to side? Would the flat wheel not be better to stop that? Quote
Stick486 Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Posted January 7, 2019 14 minutes ago, Gerald said: If you use only one will that not cause the platform for tilt side to side? use 4, one each corner, be it wheels or transfers.. Gerald 1 Quote
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