To all my esteemed, multi-talented woodworking buddies who always resolve the most complex difficulties associated with WWing, I pose this dilemma. I like to make jewelry boxes and prefer nice-looking tight joints and square corners. One problem that drives me to religion is my inability to achieve such joinery. I'm out of square by about 1/32" along an 11-inch run. There is a 1/64' difference in distance between the 2 diagonals. Perhaps trivial, maybe I just need to stop drinking so much coffee.

 

Today, I launched a full frontal assault on the problem as follows: I have  Grizzly table saw, M#1023 3 HP, equipped with an Incra Miter 3000 miter gauge, and a Freud 50-tooth blade. Using a Starrett combination square that cost the equivalent of an arm and a leg and is accurate to the diameter of an atom, I checked the setting of the miter gauge to the blade, its good at 90 degrees. Using the same square, I checked the vertical alignment of the blade, it is 90 degrees to the table top. Using a digital depth gauge, I checked the parallel rotation of the blade to the left miter slot, its good within 0.002" all around the blade, indicating it is not bent. Using a micrometer, I checked for wobble in the shaft indicating a bad bearing, there is none. I then examined the miter gauge and found (horrors!) a slight end play (<1/64", 1/128"?) at the feed end of the bar that slides in the slot. Using an allen wrench and an ape I had to rent to loosen the screw holding the slotted nylon bearing in place, I removed the bearing and noted it had a very slight flat spot on it. AHA! I moved it around 180 degrees to a better surface. I re-seated the bearing, employed the ape, and discovered I have the same end play. Now what? I dropped for 20 pushups and came in for a nap.   

 

Any insight is welcome and much appreciated.

hat

Edited November 28, 20187 yr by hatuffej

Check to see if the Ape you employed may have crushed the nylon bearing,

or stretched the mounting hole for the bolt, or the bolt.

You might need a new nylon bearing.

First of all have another mug of coffee.

I set my miter gauge with a MITERSET. Once the correct angle is achieved, lock it down. No worries about slop. 

Or, I've dealt with Incra and, find their CS to be excellent. That route would be cheaper and, likely, a permanent solution. 

Edited November 28, 20187 yr by Gene Howe

I have the exact set up as you, 1023 Grizzly and Incra 1000 or 3000. I just remember its a big number. One big problem I use to have was the wood was slipping just a hair as it started into the blade. To a lot of people they wouldn't notice.. But I did. So I put some sticky back sandpaper along the incra fence and that solved the problem...    Class dismissed!

When it comes to most crosscuts, my go to machine is the miter saw.

Edited November 29, 20187 yr by CharlieL

My table saw is 10 times more accurate than my Dewalt miter saw so I hardly ever use it. I really need to sell it.

 

 

4 hours ago, hatuffej said:

maybe I just need to stop drinking so much coffee.

This is not a solution...you're speaking gibberish. I suggest you let Rent-a-Ape whack you a couple times instead of the miter gauge until you're realigned.

Sorry Hat...couldn't resist...I assume you're talking about the OEM/Grizzly miter gauge? Any chance you have a different gauge from another machine you could try? Can you post some pictures of what you and the "ape" encountered?; or a link to the exploded view of the miter gauge? Sorry, but I'm a visual, gotta see it kind of helper. Patch may be on to something though about the very slight slippage at initial feed.

3 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

I have the exact set up as you, 1023 Grizzly and Incra 1000 or 3000. I just remember its a big number. One big problem I use to have was the wood was slipping just a hair as it started into the blade. To a lot of people they wouldn't notice.. But I did. So I put some sticky back sandpaper along the incra fence and that solved the problem...    Class dismissed!

Hello Smallpatch. I also added some sticky-backed sandpaper way back when. Maybe I should replace it.

Many thanks!

hat

Edited November 29, 20187 yr by hatuffej

Maybe I'm just lucky, or maybe my Starrett square is off.  After tuning my saw, I purchased the Rockler crosscut sled and set it up for the saw. My longest cut using the sled has been 10" for a small box. I always clamp down before cutting. Using the starrett to check the cut reveals no issues with square. I have the Jet Contractor table saw using a 40 tooth thin kerf Freud blade. The sled has been accurate for a variety of angle cuts

I’m a digital guy.  I have a Wixey digital angle finder that I set my blade tilt with.  Crank your blade high, zero the Wixey on the table top and then set your tilt to 90.  As for the miter, I have a Craftsman (or Crapsman) digital miter.  I use a Starrett square to square the miter to the blade.  If I really want perfection, I use a digital protractor to get my 45 on the miter.  It’s a pain but the miters are tight.

Jeff don't forget to check those set screws from time to time on the table guides on that Incra. I don't know who invented them but are a great addition to a miter gauge. And I think the Grizzly has them on their miter gauge.  Don't remember cause I don't use it.

Ron, I do use the Wixey to insure the blade is square to the table, but so far the blade stop is dead on. The Wixey works great for tilting the blade to make longer rip cuts at any given angle.

Edited November 29, 20187 yr by It Was Al B

whack it with an axe, duct tape it.  call it good.

 

(ok, maybe not for finer items)  

On 11/28/2018 at 8:31 PM, hawkeye10 said:

My table saw is 10 times more accurate than my Dewalt miter saw.

Highly unlikely unless you have the blade on backwards on the miter saw.

Edited November 30, 20187 yr by CharlieL

Jeff I keep a good amount of Johnson's Paste wax in the mitre slots so those plastic washers don't wear out.

1/64" on the diagonal????????? were you a machinist at one point in your life? I can't even see 1/64". If I had to be closer than that ,I would give up woodworking.

Double that 1/64th for mating pieces and it's very obvious. But, that's what a shooting board is for.  

On 11/28/2018 at 4:47 PM, hatuffej said:

Any insight is welcome and much appreciated

 

This is the method I use and it is spot on.  Amazes me how accurate it is.

 

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/true-your-table-saw-miter-gauge-blade-and-fence/

8 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Double that 1/64th for mating pieces and it's very obvious. But, that's what a shooting board is for.  

To shoot yourself?

8 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

But, that's what a shooting board is for. 

Wondered how you made worm hole wood

4 minutes ago, Dadio said:

To shoot yourself?