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Featured Replies

1 hour ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Sorry I couldn't let this discrepancy go...I was just trying to validate for myself and determine the reason. I would have done the same research if it was mine.

Ok, after this I will give it a rest...(well probably:998427331_ChinScratch:).

The 8" direct drive (Model 113.221620) uses blade arbor nut 6362. Per Sears Parts Direct, this same nut is used on multiple TS's 8"-10". I've never seen 9" or 10" use anything but 5/8" (ShopSmith excepted) arbor diameter.

 

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Ok...made me go and tear the saw down....found the data plate..clear around back..

752293336_dataplate.jpg.9f42b4b57b2c578c7566977e68c53751.jpg

Might help a bit...unplugged the saw..

unplugged.jpg.a4a1635321ccef89ba3fcb16a06f4c14.jpg

Need to change out the plug, sometime....Dad removed the ground plug.  Phillips screw to remove the red plate...

1974679653_2wrench.jpg.8955f3885c58b05ae6d45c7aa22aa83b.jpg

Takes 2 wrenches...was a bit rusty....hammer to loosen things up...then a pry bar between the two to break things free..

parts.jpg.a7e9f51d6540706fd70b739fe32b9d81.jpg

There be a washer on both faces of the blade...flatter one is towards the motor side...1" wrench fits the nut,.    There is a stop inside, to keep the one wrench from moving too far....box end is for the hex nut.  .....5/8" ID nut.   Saw blade?

blade.jpg.0489f89369f2a60427a18b977db652c8.jpg

22 tooth, carbide, Piranha....5/8" bore.   So...no special bushings needed, might get a DeWalt 8" and call it good...methinks this blade is past it's "prime"?

 

Goo-b-gone on the threads...oil later.   Might be able to make some use out of it....fence and the splitter...suck.  May be able to build a fence for it...about like my saw guide?   Dedicated a couple small c clamps?    Zero Clearance Insert?   doubtful.  How old IS the saw blade?

39 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Ok...made me go and tear the saw down....found the data plate..clear around back..

Ummm, sorry:blush:...didn't mean to make you go down there on a Monday.:P Well technically, no project work was done...

I'll send you the PDF file for the manual since I already downloaded it...good reference at least for eh parts list, numbers and exploded views. Who knows how much loner Sears will be around to get this info.

42 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Need to change out the plug, sometime.

Buy you one of these, cut the female end off, then re-wire from the switch. Gives you more cord length and if you use a 20% off Coupon, doesn't cost much more than a replacement plug. They used to make them in Neon Green...I bought several...easier to see what I tripped over.:lol: ...Pretty sure your cord is 16-3;

H-F 10 ft x 16 gauge 3 wire

image.png.15e047f48ed49eda4605881e3daa2002.png

 

53 minutes ago, steven newman said:

5/8" bore.   So...no special bushings needed, might get a DeWalt 8" and call it good

Cool beans...glad it worked out that way...

54 minutes ago, steven newman said:

22 tooth, carbide, Piranha....

54 minutes ago, steven newman said:

How old IS the saw blade?

 

Unless you only plan to rip I'd go for at least a 40T blade...will give you smoother cuts...less planing...keep in mind you can also use 7-1/4" blades too; you'll just give up blade height/depth of cut, but for specialty purposes... two 7-1/4" x 1/8" thick, 24T next to each other staggering the teeth, will give you a nice 1/4" dado, groove, rebate...

 

As for how old...well not as old as either of us 'cause we're older than carbide.:Laughing: But, I have a couple of B&D Piranha 10" blades I bought NIP at a yard sale a couple of years ago that really do a pretty decent job. FWIW, I've found NIP or slightly used 7-1/4" & 8" blades at yard sales & flea markets for pennies on the dollar...many are HSS versus carbide, but I use the 8" on my little antique B&D and my 9" Rockwell...even the 7-1/4 from time to time.

 

I'll watch for a Dado stack insert around here...I've seen them before...Zero clearance was never made for that saw, but cover table top squared by the fence with 1/4" ply or tempered Masonite...raise the blade through it and you've got a 0-clearance...you can do similar for cross cuts making sled(s).

 

Glad you got this...know you'll put it to great use.

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