I have a Porter Cable 6 gallon pancake air compressor, model C2001-WK.  The drain valve is not very easy to use and I would like to replace it with a Ball Valve type drain valve.  The only spec info I have seen is that the original is 18 TPI.  I have seen some Youtube videos where the drain valve has been upgraded by using a street elbow and some short length(s) of piping and a valve.  I've also seen some one piece Ball Valves but not sure if these would fit thread or length wise.  Would appreciate your advice/suggestions.  Thank You.   

I would love to do the same thing Jim, seems folks like @Stick486 or @Larry Buskirk would have the answer on this one. I have to spin my valve and it gets stuck, I'd love just a lever operation.

38 minutes ago, John Morris said:

I would love to do the same thing Jim, seems folks like @Stick486 or @Larry Buskirk would have the answer on this one. I have to spin my valve and it gets stuck, I'd love just a lever operation.

I also sent an email to the folks at Porter Cable and asked if they can make a recommendation.  I'll let you know what their response is.

1 hour ago, JIMMIEM said:

would like to replace it with a Ball Valve type drain valve.

I used a 12'' long air hose assembly (male ends sized to fit the outlet on the tank) and an inline brass ball valve (female threaded) w/ mounting bracket...

on the outlet side of the valve I added a 45° street EL to direct the air flow to the side...

in hindsight I should have used a hose w/ a union end.. (shown)..

everything is at the BB's...

 

 

This might be what you need-

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-HDA70100AV/100039901

 

1/4" 18 tpi NPT

I'm not Stick or Larry, but I have run 1000's of feet of air line. 

 

I'd be surprised if the thread boss was not 1/4" NPT which has 18 tpi but are tapered. I don't recall every seeing anything else used on "small" compressors. Large commercial applications often use larger size but also NPT. I've seen a few rotary vane compressors use ported o-ring thread bores for automatic drains but never a portable.

 

As for the ball valve, I use them for shut-off gates at the compressor and lines. No reason it would not work as you've described for a tank drain. Make sure you use galvanized pipe, elbows etc. vs black iron. The black iron will rust. Just make sure it's a good quality stainless ball valve. Word of caution though, if you move this compressor around frequently, handle and position with care after extending the drain out of the tank. It becomes susceptible to breakage.

 

https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/taper-pipe-threads.htm

 

2 hours ago, JIMMIEM said:

upgraded by using a street elbow and some short length(s) of piping and a valve. 

90° street EL off of the outlet...

add the new drain assembly..

mount the valve to a leg of the tank..

I used a 1/4 npt and copper tubing to a ball valve with plastic hose to direct the blowout. I feel like what Dave said that 1/4 is standard.

Porter Cable Customer Service sent a reply.  "I (Customer Service Rep.) have replaced your drain valve with the Ball Valve from Bostitch CAP2000P-OF part# AB-9047062".

Customer Service Rep. also said they are sending me the part, as a courtesy.   Very kind as I only asked for information.

I'm assuming it will work....will let you know for sure.....will arrive in 7 - 10 days.  

 

I solved this situation with a drain valve used by truckers for their airbrake tanks-----available at a truck repair place----or maybe google. Spring loaded----pull the wire cable----release after a moment---problem solved. Works for me.

1/4" pipe threads on the small tanks and on larger tanks 3/8" pipe threads and always buy the brass fittings and on off valves as they will last longer around water. Then when the tank wears out  you still have good pieces to transfer to the new compressor. All this stuff can be found in a hardware store back where the pipe and accessories are located. On high humid days the complete inside of the tanks will have lots of moisture and will be impossible to remove all of it even if you turned the valve every five minutes so no need of trying.

  Use to on the larger tanks 80 gal and larger the drain tube came out midways up the inside of the tank and inside the tank it was positioned down at the very bottom of the tank..That way when I open my drain valve if the rings are worn any I will first get oil shooting out the side then water. It sure makes a mess if my wife is standing there watching or dogs or cats are not too happy either. But at least the animals don't through rocks or things at me. The tank and compressor I use is a 1954 model and still no holes in the tank...I only drain the tank about twice a year if I think about it..

  I honestly think the older the compressor the more oil it uses and therefore it also makes the tank last longer because of the oil on the inside of the tank. Draw your own conclusions..

  So an oil- less tank screams cause it don't have any oil to help protect its insides ...

  I have an extra larger compressor which is an upright model and don't take up too much room in case someone lives close to me..

Edited October 8, 20187 yr by Smallpatch

I borrowed my neighbor's 33 gal so many times, I decided that he needed a better way to drain his tank.  I purchased this assembly from Home depot.  Very easy to install, just remove the plug and install the new assembly.  Quarter turn for open/closed.  Danl

 

 

  

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 12:15 PM, JIMMIEM said:

Porter Cable Customer Service sent a reply.  "I (Customer Service Rep.) have replaced your drain valve with the Ball Valve from Bostitch CAP2000P-OF part# AB-9047062".

Customer Service Rep. also said they are sending me the part, as a courtesy.   Very kind as I only asked for information.

I'm assuming it will work....will let you know for sure.....will arrive in 7 - 10 days.  

 

I received the part, have installed it, and it works.  The ball valve is so much more convenient to use than the original drain valve.