September 11, 20187 yr Popular Post Restoring a Walker Turner (Rockwell) 20" Drill Press Model 70-400 Model Number: Labeled 70-400 but actually a 70-410 because it is has an MT3 taper Type: Drill Head Only Serial Number: 1350495 (1964) Spindle Size: MT3 Power Feed: No Slow Speed: No Number Of Belts: 1 Date of Restoration: June to August 2018 The previous owner installed a single phase 120VAC motor from a Jet drill. He also gave me the motor that was installed when he bought it, but I dont think it is an original WT motor. It is 3 phase but has no label. I installed a Baldor 3HP single phase 120VAC motor (because I like big motors). I dont have 3 phase service, but I am in the process of building a rotary phase converter. I will be restoring a Powermatic 1150 drill press in the future. A few years ago I restored a DeWalt table saw. It still works great. To disassemble the drill: 1. Start disassembly: Remove the chuck Remove the belt cover Release the belt tension Slip the belt off the motor pulley Remove the large handle that raises and lowers the chuck NOTE: I tried to remove one of the 3 arms and ended up damaging it with a pipe wrench. It refused to come out. The 3 black balls came off easily. Remove both side plates (Where the power feed would be attached) Remove on/off switch assembly Remove the left 2 bolts holding the motor to the motor bracket (You cant get to them after the drill is layed on its left side) Ensure the bottom collar is clamped tighly onto the column (To prevent head from falling to the bottom of the column) Remove the huge nut on the right side that clamps the head to the column Remove the lever that raises and lowers the head Remove the assembly that the lever is attached to (4 bolts) Tighten bolt so the head will not swivel 2. Continue disassembly: Lay drill on its left side Remove motor Remove motor bracket from head (1 bolt) Remove column base Slide column out of head 3. Prepare to remove the quill: Remove chuck depth adjusting bolt Remove front knob, assembly, and set screw (This holds the chuck in position) Use a magnet to remove the inner piece Use a flatblade to remove the 2 large screws on the front Use a flatblade to remove the 2 inner pieces Use a magnet to remove 2 more inner pieces 4. Remove the quill: Remove the top head cap (3 bolts) (This might be difficult. Be careful not to break it.) Remove the belt Loosen the set screw on the pulley DANGER: The quill might fall out of the head when the next 2 steps are performed. NOTE: The large spring that holds the quill up will uncoil on the next step. Remove the large lever and assembly that raises and lowers the chuck Pull the gear shaft out of the head Remove the quill and spindle (You may need to knock it out from the top with a piece of wood) (The pulley will not move. Only the shaft will come out) 5. Remove the 2 quill bearings: Remove the spacer from the spindle (2 set screws) Remove the spindle from the quill using a piece of wood and a big a** vise opened at the correct width so the shaft will slip out of the quill and bearing assembly (This is difficult. It takes a lot of force. Place the piece of wood on top of the shaft, on the spline end, and hit the wood with a BIG hammer. The 2 bearings should remain inside the quill) Beat the 2 bearings out of the quill with a brass rod 6. Remove the pulley assembly from the head: Use a long piece of wood (12" long) to knock the pulley assembly out of the head (Place the wood piece in the area where the quill was located. Mark the wood piece before you hit it, to indicate how much it moves. This is difficult. It takes a lot of force to knock the bearing cap out of the head.) NOTE: This pulley assembly consists of a bearing sitting on top of the pulley, and a bearing and cap on the bottom of the pulley. The previous step should have knocked the cap out of the head, thus enabling the entire assembly to be removed. The outside diameter of this cap is approximately 2 1/2".) 7. Remove the 2 pulley bearings: Use a vise to press the inner sleeve in both directions to remove the top and bottom pulley bearings 8. Clean it and paint it: Use a wire brush head (one on a drill and one on a bench grinder) to remove the old paint Use a Dremel to remove the old paint around the 2 badges Paint it. I used Rustoleum Satin Sage spray paint 9. I cant find a parts manual for the 70-400 20" drill. But I believe the later 1100 20" drills use most of the same parts. My drill press had these 4 bearings: Bearing on top of pulley: Norma 205PP - Same as SKF 6205ZZ Bearing just below pulley: Norma 205PP - Same as SKF 6205ZZ Bearing inside top of quill: MRC 204SF - Same as SKF 6204Z Bearing inside bottom of quill: SKF 170372 (1-70372) 10. Cost: 70-400 Used from craigslist.........................................$250.00 I bought these 3 parts in June 2018 from wtsmllc@juno.com (The Walker Turner Serviced Machinery LLC) (These 3 parts arent sold anywhere else that I know of) P/N 70372 Double Row RBI Sealed - Special Bore Double Sealed.......$ 64.95 P/N 80857 Spacer (required for above bearing)......................$ 2.50 P/N 3600 V-Belt standard direct drive 5-speed pulley config 61.5"..$ 23.50 S&H USA.............................................................$ 7.40 Total for above 3 items.............................................$ 98.35 3 Bearings 6204ZZ 6205ZZ 6205ZZ (from popular auction website)......$ 25.95 Paint (Rustoleum Satin Sage)........................................$ 31.20 New Baldor 3HP motor from craigslist................................$150.00 Grand Total.........................................................$653.85 Was it worth all the work? You bet!
September 11, 20187 yr Welcome to TPW, Bruce. That's great looking restoration of a fine piece of machinery. From what can be seen in the background, you've done a few other machines, as well. Just curious...what is the black thing in your last picture. Looks like a '56 or '57 chevy. Edited September 11, 20187 yr by Gene Howe
September 11, 20187 yr Author You are close. The car is a 1955 Pontiac. The exact first car I ever rode in (when I was a few days old). My grandfather bought it new and I inherited it.
September 11, 20187 yr 5 minutes ago, DrillRestorer said: You are close. The car is a 1955 Pontiac. The exact first car I ever rode in (when I was a few days old). My grandfather bought it new and I inherited it. Another restoration candidate? Those were/are good looking cars.
September 11, 20187 yr Author Popular Post A Black and Decker 3/4" drill. Made around 1928. 500 RPM. I restored 2 years ago. I dont use it. Would probably break my skinny arm. It only has a maintained on/off switch. Very dangerous!
September 11, 20187 yr Author Popular Post We paid $20K for a frame off restoration in 2010. Its a factory V8 with one of the first factory 3 speed auto trans.
September 11, 20187 yr Welcome to The Patriot Woodworker. Great to have you here. Fantastic write-up on the W-T restoration and even more fantastic job on both it and the Rockwell. Love the story behind the '55 Chiefton. Beautiful car. IMO, those were some of the best cars GM ever made. Can't wait to see what else you have in the works to share next.
September 11, 20187 yr 1 hour ago, DrillRestorer said: We paid $20K for a frame off restoration in 2010. Its a factory V8 with one of the first factory 3 speed auto trans. Gorgeous.
September 11, 20187 yr Great Job on the restoration. They sure have shrunk down the motor sizes over the years,that would have been the size of a 1/3 h.p. motor in it's day. I like the height adjustment of raising and lowering the head instead of a table, I don't think I have seen that before. Did you make a new base socket or is that an after market replacement ? Really some good features incorporated in that drill press including the knob type quill lock in the front. Good job, great pictorial, Like the Pontiac too,you Granps had good taste. Herb
September 12, 20187 yr Author The base was part of the drill originally. I just bought a 1/2" thick steel plate, and a heavy duty stainless restaurant table. Gramps took good care of the Pontiac. But he did squeal tires often. I am surprised the tranny held up all these years. I cant remember if he ever had it rebuilt.
September 15, 20187 yr Author I thank you all for the warm welcome. I will post photos of the RPC after I complete it.
September 18, 20187 yr Man, I bet @Larry Buskirk would sure appreciate this resto! And welcome to our community @DrillRestorer!
October 1, 20196 yr Question.... Why is the motor shaft up so high? I would think that would really put some stress on the motor bearings... I got an old hand drill just like the one pictured above. That's back when they knew how to make them. Good drill.
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