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Ouch, Table Saw Hit

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My table saw (10" Dewalt portable) is everything I want and need. It does a great job, saws straight & square. It did not come with a zero clearance throat plate and none is available for that mode.. I made one that works just fine. The only glitch is that When I use it I can't use the riving knife. I can not use it because it would weaken the home made throat plate too much. I could use an 8 inch blade and make one that would work, but that is too labor intensive and time too. Today I was cutting several small pieces using the home made zero clearance plate and when I finished I put my regular throat plate back on. I forgot the riving knife. First cut after that, the small piece I was cutting changed positions and kicked back hitting me in the neck. I never have my face or head behind. It put a pretty good hit on me, but did not do much damage. Only bled slightly. The it occurred to me that if it hit harder and over a bit.....it would hit my juggler vein.

I will use an 8 inch blade with the riving knife from this point forward. I was lucky. I will also change my sawing stance. Maybe a face shield too

Glad you are ok Ron.  And thanks for sharing, I know I benefit from an occasional reminder regarding shop safety.

Too close for comfort, Ron. Glad you escaped serious harm. 

I'll echo glad it wasn't worse. For all the attention finger cuts get on the TS, I suspect if someone did a poll they would find kickback is a far bigger problem.

The best lessons are those made from the experience of others.

 

Thanks for starting the conversation!   :-)

As one still learning the basics, I appreciate the warning. I’m happy that you weren’t hurt significantly. Thank you.

This is the splitter I use on my Jet contractor saw. Just a couple of small holes drilled in my "0" clearance insert to hold it in place. Easy to remove when you have to, and simply re insert it in the drilled holes when you need it. i've been using this for at least 3 years now and have never had a problem with it. They are made for regular blades and thin kerf blades.

i use the blade guard that came with my TS (dewalt).  it only comes off for cuts where it would interfere.  takes just a few moments to install.  i'd rather spend time doing that than spend time going to the ER.  

 

also, don't stand in front of the blade, stand off to one side or the other.  cut offs can be caught by the blade and flung at you at great speed.  if you aren't in the way, you won't get hit.

Glad you're no worse for the wear Ron and able to make this post.

Sorry that it happened, but happy you are bold enough to openly share the event.

Thanks for "taking the hit" for all of us.

Thanks for sharing.  We all need to periodically reevaluate whether we have slipped into the "just this one time" mode. 

  • Author
5 hours ago, p_toad said:

have you thought about using this type of splitter?

 

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

That is a great idea. I will look into one from my zero clearance  throat plate.  My incident occurred with my regular plate on and without my splitter..............Which I had forgotten to reinstall. I put the regular plate on, looked for the piece of wood, walked away to get  it and Did not reinstall the splitter. That one is on my absentmindedness 

I guess I have been extremely fortunate since I have been using an old Walker Turner Cabinet saw for almost 30 years without a splitter, and have had no kickbacks.

I'm glad you are ok. Lucky sounds good also. I have had a few hits but now I am off to the side and so far so good.

 

Preston

20 hours ago, p_toad said:

have you thought about using this type of splitter?

 

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

I tried that some years back, but it kept popping out right in the middle of a cut.  I may try it again.  But #1 defence against the kick is planning the cut.  I use hold-down jigs as much as possible, with horizontal and vertical feather boards, and handle on the jig.  After setting up, all I have to worry about is pushing.  Also:  outfeed table really helps keep your mind on the work and fingers away from the piece/blade because you don't worry about the pieces falling off the far end.  Push and let it go.  I also find that I prefer the fence to the left of the blade, and I'm a right-hand-pusher so that puts me out of the line of fire.  In the end I found riving knives more trouble than beneficial; OTOH my Delta contractor saw has a clumsy knife, and that may prejudice me.

I bought a set of those Microjig splitters. Never used them. Not a good solution on a Shopsmith. 

Depending on the cut, like Pete, I'll use various feather board devices. But, they often get in the way of my pusher. Especially for thin rips. For those, I will some times use my "shoe" or, a 6"X6" square of appropriate thickness BB ply with a long notch on the bottom leaving a piece to catch the end of the work. Those also have a 1"X3/4" scrap strip glued on at the top of the ply for a handle. But mostly, I use the "shoe" when I can.

Proper fence alignment is essential and, wedges to keep the kerf open, if needed, are handy, too. 

Honestly, I can't remember when I last experienced Kick back.

 

With the original blade guard a great splitter is an integral part. I disassembled the guard--- used the metal guard frame---copied that part on 16 gauge metal--- and had a first class splitter---I never use that saw without a splitter.

 

Glad you're ok, Ron...

 

short fence makes my 12" Darra James happy...

 

4100 has all the OEM stuff still on it...

 

As has been said already, proper fence alignment is a MUST...

  • Author
  • Popular Post

 I found a simple solution to enable me to use my riving knife. I elongated the opening slightly on my zero clearance insert, which allows me to use the knife if I don't raise the blade above 2 inches. It did not weaken it and provides a great deal more safety. It was like a hugh DUH moment, why didn't I think of that earlier!!!!

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