Here I go  AGAIN!!

First--about 3 months ago waxed TS ---2 coats--got rust anyway 

 

Then last week used paint thinner to remove the 2 coats. Cleaned it off. Applied 2 coats @ 90 degrees to each other to "insure" coverage. Buffed by hand--to lazy to get the buffer out.   Got rust anyway again.

This time it looks like a forearm print--- I must have leaned on the table.  It's a pretty close simile of my right forearm.

 

So what to do???

Strip it down again & re wax? Strip it down and shoot it with gloss lacquer? Just shoot it with something small made of lead?? 380 or 38 don't have a 357 but could borrow one!

 

Environment: garage in South Carolina low country, non a/c'd, hot (90 degree plus), humid 80-90 percent.

Wax: 1st time Butchers Bowling Alley paste wax, 2nd time Mothers California gold car wax (no silicone--per the can)

Kicker: It's ONLY the TS that is rusting. NONE on my Jet jointer, Hitachi BS, or HF lathe. TS is a Delta. They all live within 5 feet of each other. 

 

Is it even possible that some cast iron will rust more than others?

 

Has anyone used anything like lacquer or shellac to coat a TS top? Success rate?

 

I'm open to any & all suggestions

 

Friend in same development hasn't waxed in over 3 years and hasn't had rust

 

Thks

 

smitty

Edited July 18, 20188 yr by smitty10101
add'l wording

Sure sounds like it has something to do with the cast iron rather than the procedure/technique.

 

My wife has a habit of setting wet things on my saw. I've given up asking her to stop doing it. Just get out some sand paper (150 or 180) sand off the rust spot(s) and apply paste wax to the entire top, again. I use Johnson's Paste Wax. 

A thought just came to me would an electric charge affect rust formation? Why not wipe down with WD40 and clean that off when using saw, not really needed to wipe because it will evaporate.

Buy a Shopsmith. The aluminum table never rusts. In reality, not much rusts out here anyway. 

While I had my tools stored (in the garage) waiting for their new home to be built, I bought a roll of that flexible magnetic sign material and cut strips of it to cover all the cast iron surfaces. I had picked that tip up on a forum somewhere, it really works good at preventing rust, though it best used for longer down times. It's kind of a pain to remove and store. Otherwise I just use Johnson's Paste Wax.

our average humidity is about 16%.  what is this rust you speak of?  only rust spots i get are from sweat drips.

 

sand it, wipe it clean, wax it, buff it out.

2 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

It's ONLY the TS that is rusting.

your iron top more than likely contains sulfur and possibly lead, elements which weaken structure, and are also a corrosive materials.

it's also probable that the iron has very low carbon content...

The result is well known... it's right there in front of you...

I'd suspect your TS's top is rather low grade iron and on par w/ rebar...

 

clean it..

use high Carnauba wax content and mechanically buff it out hard...

applied warm is a plus...

some recommended waxes...

Johnson's paste wax, Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax, and Mohawk...

Seek out the ones that contain Carnauba wax they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...

You can even add more Carnauba, which in your case is virtually a necessity...

what brand TS?

1 hour ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

While I had my tools stored (in the garage) waiting for their new home to be built, I bought a roll of that flexible magnetic sign material and cut strips of it to cover all the cast iron surfaces. I had picked that tip up on a forum somewhere, it really works good at preventing rust, though it best used for longer down times. It's kind of a pain to remove and store. Otherwise I just use Johnson's Paste Wax.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

1 hour ago, DAB said:

our average humidity is about 16%.  what is this rust you speak of?  only rust spots i get are from sweat drips.

 

sand it, wipe it clean, wax it, buff it out.

Yeah, I think Santa Fe has even less humidity than my my area of N. AZ.

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Buy a Shopsmith. The aluminum table never rusts

had a SS---an "er"  from Monkey Wards--had to leave it behind on the move south. IF I remember it had a cast iron table. I don't think aluminum was invented yet when that was made.

 

22 minutes ago, DAB said:

what brand TS?

Delta 36-5100

 

58 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

some recommended waxes...

Johnson's paste wax, Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax, and Mohawk...

Seek out the ones that contain Carnauba wax they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...

You can even add more Carnauba, which in your case is virtually a necessity...

I've got Johnson's   about the same as Butchers    used to use them interchangeably  Know a source for pure Carnauba ??  Internet? something brick & mortar 

 

1 hour ago, Stick486 said:

I'd suspect your TS's top is rather low grade iron and on par w/ rebar...

Thanks---I needed that.

@smitty10101, look familiar?

If I'm not mistaken, the hand crank model was used by Noah.

22 minutes ago, smitty10101 said:

had a SS---an "er"  from Monkey Wards--had to leave it behind on the move south. IF I remember it had a cast iron table. I don't think aluminum was invented yet when that was made.

 

Delta 36-5100

 

I've got Johnson's   about the same as Butchers    used to use them interchangeably  Know a source for pure Carnauba ??  Internet? something brick & mortar 

 

Thanks---I needed that.

THis is what I use on wood projects,a can will last for-ever.

LundMarks  Carnuba paste wax.

https://www.amazon.com/Lundmark-Wax-LUN-3206P001-6-Applicable-Paste/dp/B000BYAQC2

I found either a full cover over the top (packing blanket, cardboard or a good spray with Boeshield T-9 (think it used to have another name).

 

https://boeshield.com/

Edited July 18, 20188 yr by p_toad

2 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

Know a source for pure Carnauba ??  Internet? something brick & mortar 

candle shop...

2 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

Delta 36-5100

this is an off shore manufactured, isn't it???

2 hours ago, smitty10101 said:

Thanks---I needed that.

Hey..

you know there was no ill intent...

 

Waxing can be a lot of work. I've started using Slip-it. It produces a slick surface and helps prevent rust.  With the slip -it, I just wipe it on, then wipe off any excess.

Sounds to me like you are not removing all the rust to begin with. Make certain that you sand it really well, wax it real good, and buff it, and do it all immediately.

I was getting rust rings for awhile on my band saw table.  Removed my wannabe SIL, problem solved.

I'm with P toad on the Boeshield. Expensive......yes but worth it. Follow the directions, it works great.