June 19, 20188 yr Since we have the best woodworks in the world right here, I have a question. I just took a job building a display case that will hang on the wall. The customer’s father was wounded in WWII in the South Pacific and apparently was to be part of a Japanese invasion force. He was carrying a silk double map of Honshu and this is the map that will be protected by the case. Side note: The map still has blood stains on it. Anyway, I’m thinking about a basic oak frame on all four sides with either glass or plexiglass on either side. Weight will be an issue because the map is 26” square. The map will be suspended by gold clips inside and a gold chain to hang the case. Here’s the question. Because of the weight the case has to be strong so what type of joinery on the corners? It is too narrow for dovetails or box joints.
June 19, 20188 yr Splines, pocket screws, brass corner caps... All of the above. Edited June 19, 20188 yr by Gene Howe
June 19, 20188 yr 30 minutes ago, Ron Dudelston said: It is too narrow for dovetails or box joints. Ron, assume you mean the frame thickness? If so, what will be the width (depth) of the frame pieces? Would 1/8" finger joints work? 32 minutes ago, Ron Dudelston said: either glass or plexiglass on either side. Weight will be an issue because the map is 26” square. Definitely go with plexiglass or Lexan vs glass.
June 19, 20188 yr 47 minutes ago, Gene Howe said: Splines, pocket screws, brass corner caps... All of the above. and hold the plexiglass because of off gassing...
June 19, 20188 yr Author 33 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said: Ron, assume you mean the frame thickness? If so, what will be the width (depth) of the frame pieces? Would 1/8" finger joints work? Definitely go with plexiglass or Lexan vs glass. Dave, I was referring to the depth of the case. I’m guessing no more than 2 1/2 or 3”
June 19, 20188 yr Set-up is a pain & I'm still learning, but 1/8" box should give the strength needed I would think... Another option might be a locked miter??
June 19, 20188 yr Thinking outside the shadow box and with the customers permission, I'd design the frame to have a cultural/religious influence Lots of designs resources I found this picture at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/93238654770464992/ Edited June 19, 20188 yr by lew
June 19, 20188 yr My suggestion---- I have had good results by using a rabbit joint, cut deep enough to leave a thin remaining strip-- glue and pin nail the joint. Take a very light 45 degree router pass on the corner and the joint becomes nearly invisible---strong, easy, even if it is not very sophisticated. This joint works really well also when making boxes or drawers out of 1/4 or 3/8 material.
June 19, 20188 yr so duct tape is out? (hides) all the above are good ideas. pick one you can do well. me? i'd miter the corner and then use either a biscuit or through splines and cross splines. examples of each spline:
June 19, 20188 yr 1 hour ago, DAB said: so duct tape is out? ...guess we all over thought this and over looked the obvious.
June 19, 20188 yr 1 hour ago, Grandpadave52 said: ...guess we all over thought this and over looked the obvious. simplify, simplify, our lives are wasted by details - Thoreau.
June 20, 20188 yr You might also consider UV filtering glass -- available at picture framing supply shops. I know the weight will be heavier, but I think I'd go for it because of the provenance of the piece. http://www.frameusa.com/blog/what-are-the-different-types-of-picture-framing-glass/
June 20, 20188 yr Popular Post Since this is old silk, i'm guessing it's been stored away for some time and will now be exposed to more light and air. I would recommend talking with a local conservator before putting it into the case. Silk can and will age badly on occasion.
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.