This pic will be a placeholder until I get the narrative ready.  I will be on the road and unable to post a pic later in the week.

Thanks

Safe travels...

 

if ur going to Charleston, Sticky Fingers has great Bar-b-Que & Hyman's Seafood can't be beat for low country meals and awesome atmosphere...Savannah, The Pirate House may have served me the best pork chop I ever ate or Churchill's Pub had a great Shepherd's Pie or Shrimp & Grits; apparently Paula Dean & Sons have reopened the low country seafood place she & Bubba used to operate; now Paula Deans Creekhouse...the BEST maybe in the world. charbroiled oysters on the 1/2 shell; a meal in themselves with the fresh bread...it's about 1/2 way between historic Savannah & Tybee...

 

Dang, Cal why did you bring up all these food places I'm hungry now...

 

BTW, you are going to move that hammer, utility knife, tape & prybar before you leave, right?

Ok, made it back.  Sorry Dave (I really am) that we are not going to Charleston or Savannah.  Am sitting in Statesboro while the wife works in Metter this week (everythings better in Metter...).  But we visit some good friends in the evening.  Tomorrow for lunch I am meeting up with another old friend.

 

But stairs - one of my 2018 goals is to re-do the stairs and stairway.  After removing the carpeting we find plywood.  I expected worse.  We want to change out t risers and treads.  The risers will be painted and the treads will be stained oak.  Options for the treads look like laminate (glued to the existing plywoood), an oak “retread” (5/8” glued to the existing plywood) or a full 1” oak tread.  At this point I am leaning towards the last two options.  Something about an MDF nose in front of laminate just doesn’t seem quite right...

 

So a couple questions for those who have “been there - done that”

Did you place the riser in first, then the tread; or the tread first with the riser sitting on top of that?  I have seen it done both ways on you tube.  I would think riser first.

If you have used the re-tread system, what were your thoughts on it?

If using a full thickness new tread, would you lay them over the plywood - or pull the old plywood tread up?  If it matters, the plywood thickness is only 3/4”.

 

I know I will have other questions after I have a chance to ponder your responses.

TIA

Did you place the riser in first, then the tread; or the tread first with the riser sitting on top of that?  I have seen it done both ways on you tube.  I would think riser first

how are the current risers and threads set into (mortise) or on the stringers as in is there another set of cut stringers or blocking we don't see???

which ever you do..

the bottom face of the risers fasten to the back edge of the tread...

and the top of the risers are fitted into a shallow slot in the leading edge of the tread above it...

do you have full access to the underside of the stairs???

 

If you have used the re-tread system, what were your thoughts on it?

re-tread as replace or cover over???

 

If using a full thickness new tread, would you lay them over the plywood - or pull the old plywood tread up?  If it matters, the plywood thickness is only 3/4”.

replace...

then you haven't got elevation changes to fuss w/...

but if you are going to be adding to or changing the upper and lower landings' elevations, lay over...

 

Thanks Stick for your reply.

 

The current risers and treads are simply nailed to 3 stringers.  There is nothing fancy, and no interlocking of risers and treads - just butt joints.  (Is it a joint if the parts only meet and are not “joined”).

 

I do have access to the underside of the stairs.

 

The re-tread system that I have looked at are 5/8 thick that glue to existing treads.  Here is one example:  https://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/1000445871

 

At to elevation changes:  At the top of the stairs, the floor covering was thick carpet over a thick padding.  This was changed out to laminate with a pad - quite a bit thinner than the carpet & pad.  The first floor at the bottom of the stairs is presently a ceramic tile which will be replaced with a pad and vinyl plank.  Net result at the bottom will be somewhat thinner, but not a whole lot.

Check out your local stair building code.  It will address riser heights and acceptable variances.  Will also address tread depth, nosing overhang, etc.  I replaced my carpeted stairs with solid treads when I replaced all the wall-to-wall carpeting with hardwood floors.  Start from the bottom and do riser, then tread, then riser, then tread, etc.  Figure all the code measurements before you start so that you will know what the acceptable tread thickness should be.  If the first and second floor landings hadn't changed then a 3/4" hardwood tread on top of the plywood subtread would have been ok.  Also, riser thickness will affect tread depth.  

Just curious.  The riser heights look shorter toward the top of the stairs.  Is that just due to the camera angle or is it my eyes?  Also, if you wind up removing the balusters to install treads there is a product that makes them real easy to reinstall.

Thanks @JIMMIEM

This project is well underway at this point.  Going strictly by the current code just wasn't in the cards, given the available space to work in.

The existing treads were not level right to left.  They were not level, nor uniform back to front, and disregarding the bottom and top step the risers varied in height by about 1/4".  The center stringer was not even fastened at the top - it was just a floater!!!  I guess that might explain some of the waviness in the existing treads...

I spent a good bit of time preparing for new solid treads.  Fastened the center stringer to the floor joist at the top and sistered a 2x6 to it for added strength.  A lot of 'rithmetic & cipherin' and I am ready to install treads.  I have them all level right to left and about a 1* slope front to back and all risers are within 1/16", including first & last step.  I am cutting the last treads today and will finish them before installing.  Spent a fair amount of time yesterday on newell post placement and trim work.

I will be posting up a few pics when I get done.

3 minutes ago, JIMMIEM said:

Just curious.  The riser heights look shorter toward the top of the stairs.  Is that just due to the camera angle or is it my eyes?  Also, if you wind up removing the balusters to install treads there is a product that makes them real easy to reinstall.

Camera angle on riser heights.  That last riser at the top actually measured 9 1/2" on the left side and 9 7/8" on the right side!

The balusters were removed, so please tell me more on the install product.

36 minutes ago, Cal said:

Camera angle on riser heights.  That last riser at the top actually measured 9 1/2" on the left side and 9 7/8" on the right side!

The balusters were removed, so please tell me more on the install product.

Check out this video.   http://www.cooperstairworks.com In this video we show three methods of fastening balusters on a stair, and demonstrate how to install balusters using threaded inserts.

I didn't see the embedded video on the web site but it does exist on Youtube....may have to google it.

Edited July 7, 20188 yr by JIMMIEM

Thank you again JIMMIEM!

I watched several of the videos.  I shall be looking for these at Lowes/HD the next time I go to town.

I have all treads cut now and stain applied.  I may start with the poly today, but maybe not.  A lot of yard work to do.

Looking good!!!!  Did you make/buy a stair tread jig that will let you get a real good fit when you install the treads?  I used the bolts that screw into the bottom of the baluster and then into a threaded insert that is installed in the tread.  Not sure if HD/Lowes will carry these.  I mail ordered mine from a place called Horner Millwork.  I'm sure you know this but good flooring poly and several coats  (I did 6 coats of Last N Last flooring poly).  Another thing to keep in mind is that the treads can be slippery depending on your footwear.  I eventually installed a carpet stair runner......just something to keep in mind.

 

P.S. If my 'advice' is stuff you already are aware of please let me know and I will shut up. 

Thanks @JIMMIEM

I bought one of those stair tread "tools" to do the measuring for the risers & treads.  It worked "ok".  I also cut a slight bevel on the lower edge of the treads to help in getting them in and out.

For the balusters, I will be using square ones that already have a short dowell on the one end.  I plan to just drill the appropriate hole and use a dab of adhesive.  That, plus the square stock held in the handrail dado ought to keep things tight and square.

I applied a first coat of thinned poly yesterday, Varathane for floors.  Hope to get two full coats on them today and then company is expected tomorrow.  And just yesterday the wife expressed some reservations about how slippery they might end up...

 

Keep those tips and tricks coming!

30 minutes ago, Cal said:

in the handrail dado

that's called a ''plough'' and the balusters will require mechanical fastening...

don't forget your fillers...

Thanks Stick!  I like to learn stuff everyday, and today is no exception...

What size ballusters are you using, and how wide is the bottom of the rail?? Remodel jobs I've seen the bottom of the rail at 2" with a 1 3/4" balluster in the dado/plough that leaves a 1/8" on each side, not enough meat. Also how deep is the dado in the bottom of the rail, typically the store bought rail is about 1/8" deep, we always make our stuff 3/8" deep, and use 1/2" thick fillet. 

Hello Kenny, the balusters are 1 1/4" square.  The plough width is 1 1/4 x 1/4" deep.  

These parts came from Home Depot, made by SureWood-LNL

For others that may be looking at a stair remodel, here is a link to an installation guide by SureWood.  I found it to be very helpful:

http://surewoodlnl.com/pdfs/OTP How-To POD.pdf

 

A little touch up paint yesterday and I call this a done deal... until I redo the first level flooring that is.  

Will be hanging some artwork/pictures up the left wall at some point.

SWMBO says she likes it

A couple before and afters:

 

10 minutes ago, Cal said:

I call this a done deal.

that sure came out nice...

 

You did a great job!!!!!