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Guest Jim Hallman

1924 Oliver 133 Jointer

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Guest Jim Hallman

I acquired a Oliver 133 jointer that is in good condition considering it's age and going to restore it to it's original condition.  The cutter head is a 3-blade safety head and want to remove the blades that are secured by 3 side spanner set screws.  Does anyone know of a source for the spanner tool or know of any suitable tool?  The bearings that hold the cutter head are Norma E-L-17 open frame bearings (17mmx40mmx10mm) and there does not appear to be any replacement out there.  The closet bearing is the 6203 that is 17mmx40mmx12mm.

Obviously anyone successfully restoring the 133 has probably gone through this.

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11 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

Hello Jim and welcome...

sign up... become a member.. this is a great place to be...

use the ole arn forum to the full extent....

post pictures of what you have..

tons of help available here...

and don't forget the donuts...

 

Um, EXCUSE me! Didn't you forget something?

2 hours ago, Guest Jim Hallman said:

The cutter head is a 3-blade safety head and want to remove the blades that are secured by 3 side spanner set screws.  Does anyone know of a source for the spanner tool or know of any suitable tool?

Jim, can you post a photo. You might be surprised what we can come up with that might work.

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@Jim Hallman

 

Try here:

Bearings

Kaman Bearings
502 Bloy St.
Hillside, NJ 07205
(973) 526-2665

 

Power In Motion
16A Montesano Rd.
Fairfield, NJ 07004
(973) 244-0101

 

or ?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bearing-L17-17mmx40mmx10mm-Angular-Thrust-PUCH-TOMOS-A3-ZA50-Magneto-Side-Crank-/301078873261?rmvSB=true

Edited by schnewj

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Sorry guys but I am re-posting this subject again now that I am a member.  I was having trouble getting back to my original non-member post about the 1924 Oliver Jointer topic.

 

Anyway, I acquired a 1924 Oliver 133 jointer and now in the process of restoring it.

 

The cutter head needs to be disassembled  that includes 3 cutter blades which are secured to the cutter block with 3 flat side spanner "screws".  See attached pictures of the cutter head.  The screw spanner holes are 1/4" diameter and are spaced at about 13/16" OC.  There are a lot of knock-off China built adjustable spanner wrenches  but question if they will hold up to do the job  I suspect the machine when it was sold had a wrench included with it.

 

BTW I emailed eaglemachinery-repair.com last week, who deals with antique Oliver machines about the spanner wrench and they have not responded back yet.

 

There was an article on the a website I think about a 1922 Oliver 133 back in 2012 but no followup articles on that since.

 

Anybody out there that has done this?

Cutter head.jpg

close view.jpg

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On 4/16/2018 at 12:58 AM, Jim Hallman said:

The screw spanner holes are 1/4" diameter and are spaced at about 13/16" OC. 

First off, welcome Jim to The Patriot Woodworker...glad you got signed up as a member here and jumped right in with pictures and questions. As @Stick486 noted, 2 pin spanners are available via many outlets depending on what your budget allows.

https://www.grainger.com/category/spanner-wrenches/wrenches/tools/ecatalog/N-167t

 

Fyi...OTC (Owatanna  Tool Company) is a major tool provider of specialty service tools to OEM manufacturers like Ford, Chrysler, Caterpillar, John Deere, Case-IH and numerous others.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6613-Variable-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B000F5JMEA

 

Not knowing what equipment you have access to, but another option is make your own. Since you know the pin OD and center to center distance, get a piece of 1/4" flat steel, drill two 1/4" holes (or slightly over) matching the center to center distance, take two 1/4" bolts preferably Grade 8 (Six radial dashes on the head) but Grade 5 (3 dashes on head) would work.

 

Cut off the thread portion leaving a distance from bottom of the steel stock to fully engage the lock holes plus raising the steel plate slightly above the cutter head. Tack weld the bolt heads to keep the "Pins" from disengaging. Hopefully this makes sense, but if not, I'll be glad to sketch up something and post. I've made numerous "spanners" over the years like this.

 

Depending on how tight these plugs might be, you might be able to remove holding  two 1/4" pin punches in place, insert a pry bar close to the cutter head engaging the pin punches and rotate??? IDK,...but have done that before too.

In all honesty, from the pictures, it appears this plugs have been removed before using a drift punch inserted into the holes at an angle, then tapping with a hammer. IMO, I would only attempt this as a last resort to prevent further distortions to the holes.

 

Again, if none of this makes sense, PM me with your phone number and I'll give you a call.

 

Thanks for the pictures you provided; very helpful! Of course, NOW, we gotta' see pictures of this thing restored.!!:P Besides that, it's also your turn to bring donuts.:lol:

 

Edited by Grandpadave52

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Thanks GrandpaDave for the great post packed full info.  Appreciate it!

 

All what you said makes sense.  Making the spanner sounds like a fun project.

 

The next step with the Jointer is to take the part hardware to have them plated including the knobs.

 

I will be upgrading the Jointer by ordering an Oliver guard from Olivermachinery.net along with their push blocks to save the fingers when operating this beast.

 

When the project is completed, I will send pictures to the forum of the finished product.

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4 minutes ago, Jim Hallman said:

Thanks GrandpaDave for the great post packed full info.  Appreciate it!

Glad to be of some help Jim. Again, your pictures were the key for me. Let me (us) know how we can help along the way too.

 

I love to see old "arn resurrected and put to use. Oliver was a top of the line, commercial company in their heyday.

 

We love pictures here including in-process and even of your "new" spanner tool...never know when someone else will travel down the same pass you're in now.

 

Looking forward to seeing and hearing more about this project and others you have in the works.

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Hi Jim.  Welcome aboard.  OK, just spitballing here.  If this idea is a bad idea, I'm sure someone will jump in and stop you before any damage is done.  If those plugs are tight, and you are considering making your own tool, maybe a "one-armed"  wrench might not do the trick.  You could try using a longer bar, with the pins centered along the length, so that you can get both arms into the job, one pulling and the other pushing.  Just another idea.  Good luck.

 

Tom

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Tom

I have not made the tool yet and didn't want to get anxious and ruin something.

That said, your idea might work and I will look into what you are suggesting.

 

I like the forum because it is like we are all in the same room trying to figure out the best way to figure it out.  Besides, we could have a donut party. How about apple fritters?

 

I also want to thank Stick for his last Sunday post on spanner wrenches.

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5 minutes ago, Jim Hallman said:

So elected to burn off the races with a cutting torch.  One has to be careful not to burn through into the shaft below the race.  However, the torch left a couple divets in the shaft but will be covered up by the new bearing inner race.

Yep....I've done hundreds of bearing/races on combines and other pieces of agricultural equipment in this fashion...

Glad to see progress is occurring. Looking forward to seeing the completed, operational machine, but probably not nearly as much as you are.:P

Really appreciate the project update Jim. Thanks!

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