I've always struggled with cutting small parts to length, even when I had my radial arm saw, as it always seemed like overkill. I've been using a couple of Japanese pull saws for a while, really like them, and decided to make a bench hook for cutting small pieces. All parts are from the scrap bin - offcuts of luan plywood, a piece of cherry for the clamp block and a piece of thicker edge banding for the fence.

 

First photo is the original one that I built - worked OK, but it occurred to me afterwards that the fence would be better behind the sawing direction.

 

The original unit in use, cutting the MDF strips for the grid in my bit storage cabinet - stop clamped at left to give consistent length.

 

The new (improved) version with the fence at the front so that the saw pulls the material into the fence.  Another change was to have the fence overhang the clearance groove so that it could be used to guide the saw and help with square cuts. I used the end of the fence in the original version for this, but I think having the fence at the rear is going to make this easier too.

 

Another view showing the clamping block on the bottom so that it can be clamped in the vise - so, not really a saw hook but.............   Having the ability to clamp a stop block on the end turned out to be very handy, so I made this one a little longer to give me a little more room.

 

Haven't used the new one yet, but think it's going to work a little better with the pull saws because of the front fence location. They're the perfect size for cutting small strips, dowels, etc. to length, can see them getting a lot of use cutting my edge banding to length.

 

 

I like it!

 

I agree about the new fence location, it does hold the workpiece in place better.  I wonder if a single saw kerf would help align the saw a reduce tearout as the cut is finished?

I agree with the fence location. Why not run the fence the entire width (length?) of the jig and have only a saw kerf to keep the blade aligned and have back support on both cut ends? 

 

Gary

 

11 minutes ago, lew said:

I like it!

 

I agree about the new fence location, it does hold the workpiece in place better.  I wonder if a single saw kerf would help align the saw a reduce tearout as the cut is finished?

Hmm, looks like version 3 may be on the drawing board.  Tear-out on the bottom hasn't been a problem so far - the saw has pretty fine teeth (part of the reason for picking that particular one) and I'm not trying for speed. It almost sounds as the new version is going to look more like a mini miter box - actually on my "to-Do" list as I have to replace the glass molding on the back door - and make the size so it will let me cut about 7/8" which should cover most small molding and my edge banding.  Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks but actually I saw a shop project on the Woodsmith Shop program where they made a miter box type device for a pull saw. They used the single kerf idea.

 

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/downloads/?q=miter+box

 

You may need to setup an account to download the plans

I may have to make one of these. I have plenty of scrap ply wood that I could use.

I use a lot of 1/4" dowels when I make the toy cars. This would give a better cut than using the band saw.

Thanks for the idea.

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by Harry Brink

24 minutes ago, Harry Brink said:

I may have to make one of these. I have plenty of scrap ply wood that I could use.

I use a lot of 1/4" dowels when I make the toy cars. This would give a better cut than using the band saw.

Thanks for the idea.

As you can see, it works just as well for dowels. The photo also has a better view of the stop block clamped in place to give consistent lengths.

 

I like it!

Looks like that kind of problem could be solved with a scroll saw and throw that pull saw in the trash!!

I like it Tom...As Harry mentioned especially for dowels.

Unfortunately wouldn't work very well for me since I'm left-handed

 

Another suggestion for version 3.1; What about adding a "T" track rail section either as the fence or within the fence? You then could incorporate a movable stop block w/o using a clamp.

If you go that route, post pictures please so I can "shamelessly steal that idea too." You're starting to create a lot of work for me.

1 hour ago, Grandpadave52 said:

I like it Tom...As Harry mentioned especially for dowels.

Unfortunately wouldn't work very well for me since I'm left-handed

 

Another suggestion for version 3.1; What about adding a "T" track rail section either as the fence or within the fence? You then could incorporate a movable stop block w/o using a clamp.

If you go that route, post pictures please so I can "shamelessly steal that idea too." You're starting to create a lot of work for me.

Well here you go, this should take care of it.

 

Version 3.1 sounds as if it's getting complicated - at some point it will be easier to throw the Incra up on the saw and use that. I'm going to look into the miter box though. I looked at the one that Woodsmith had on their TV program, specifically for a pull saw, but that's a little more elaborate than I wanted to get. Paul Sellers has a nice video showing how to make a very basic wooden miter box, thinking something more on these lines. 

 

2 minutes ago, tomp said:

Well here you go, this should take care of it.

3 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Looks like that kind of problem could be solved with a scroll saw and throw that pull saw in the trash!!

But I like my pull saw(s)................   Really don't have room for a scroll saw. I have one of the old Dremel ones, bought years ago when I was making model airplanes. Stuck on top of a cabinet, last time I used it was to cut a Plexiglas hexagon when I was making some wind chines for my wife.

I have been using a jap pull saw for at least 15 years now and don't use a miter box for miters or straight cuts.

 

Folowing a line is easy if you stay on one side of the line.  Also HOW you cut the wood helps you guide the blade. 

 

Try this:

 

start the blade on one side of the line (right side of the line for righties, left side for lefties, just remember to include cut line in measurements when marking line)  keeping the blade at a shallow angle to the wood ( approximately 10-20 degrees).

 

follow the line for about 1 1/2 inches at this angle. This beginning cut will help guide the blade.

 

Raise blade to 30-45 degrees and using first cut as a guide for the blade go back to beginning of cut and cut through the board till blade reaches the 1 1/2 inch mark.

 

repeat shallow cut/ deep cut till the end of the board.

 

at the end of the board, lower your blade to 5 degrees and cut down with no pressure on the blade (let the blade do the work).

 

I know this is as clear as mud. maybe i can make a video. 

That's a very good explanation, and I think that's about the way I do it - although a video would be good. Speaking of videos, I recently found the ones by Paul Sellers (see earlier post where he's making a basic miter box) and am in awe of his skills. He starts by cutting a line across the part and then chisels a wedge out to give himself a little channel to guide the saw at the start of the cut - definitely going to have to try that. I started out with hand tools as a teenager (all I could afford) but then graduated as quickly as I could to power tools. Now wishing that I had stayed with hand tools a little longer and developed some of these skills. However I find myself nowadays reaching for hand tools on these little jobs, and finding out that it's sometimes quicker than setting up the power tools - and certainly more relaxing.

15 hours ago, DRAGON1 said:

maybe i can make a video.

Got my vote..Thanks for the written tutorial too.

6 hours ago, tomp said:

although a video would be good.  Speaking of videos, I recently found the ones by Paul Sellers (see earlier post where he's making a basic miter box) and am in awe of his skills.

+1; I'll check Paul's out. Thanks Tom...everything he does just seems to be intuitive and second nature to him.

some times those pull saws are a bit too flexible...

to solve that attach a magnetic tool holder to the side of the blade...

also you can set the holder to act as a depth gauge...

 

Great idea! Was looking for a bench hook miter box jig to make and stumbled upon this, which is better than what I was looking for because it's for a pull saw and I love using my ryoba Japanese pull saw. I cut so much better with it than push saws. Needless to say I've already started making one of these for myself! Thank you for sharing your idea.

And thank you @Jennessa for finding this gem.  I didn't know I needed one, but I have enough scrap and like to use the pull saw also.  So why not.

And welcome aboard, glad to have you here

 

And thanks also to @tomp, this must have been posted up before I joined, but glad it's surfaced!

Welcome @Jennessa to The Patriot Woodworker.  Glad you found us and even more so you found a solution here for your shop. We love pictures here and would love seeing your version of @tomp design. Stop by our Introduce Yourself forum, tell us a little about yourself and your projects. Looking forward to your on-going participation here. Great bunch of folks, always willing to share, learn and have fun.