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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About tomp

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    You got me, you figure it out!

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  1. tomp

    More Dollar Store Solar Lights

    I like that, although I'd probably put frosted panels in the openings so that the output isn't as stark. I made a solar light ornament for a fund raiser - the solar light was disguised to look like a bamboo Tiki Light and had the "flickering flame" effect which was pretty realistic. I've had the idea of making some wooden lanterns for the deck that use similar flickering solar lights, may pursue once I find one that's more easily modified to use. They also make 120V flickering bulbs, and I've been asked to make a lantern using one for a friend's rec room bar as a decoration.
  2. tomp

    Exact Width Dado Jig

    How about the idea of adding threaded rods through the width of the outer guide? Add t-nuts or threaded inserts to provide the threads in the guide. This would fix the jig to the part being dadoed without needing clamps - a quick and easy modification to an existing jig too.
  3. And I thought that you had snow all year.................. I grow my tomatoes in Earthboxes, spent yesterday bending cages out of 6x6 concrete reinforcing mesh to keep them contained. Took a lot out of me so all I did this morning was water the vegetable garden and the flower beds, and then a second watering with Miracle Gro. I have a second half yard of shredded mulch that needs to be spread but it's supposed to be in the mid 90's here for the next few days so that may have to wait a bit or get done in real small doses before the sun comes up.
  4. tomp

    a Few Interesting Tips

    If we're talking quick and dirty, this is how I've been making doors for shop cabinets................... Door frame using pocket screws Cut a rabbet on the back, around the opening, and to the depth of the plywood panel Cut the plywood panels to size and radius the corners to match the rabbet in the frame Glue the panels in place, using short brads or pin nails The finished product
  5. tomp

    a Few Interesting Tips

    Exactly the way I do it, except for cutting the tenons on the router table - cleaner cheek cuts, plus I can leave the TS set up for cutting the grooves (just in case). And, I glue the plywood panels in as there's no concern if wood movement unlike with a solid wood panel.
  6. tomp


    For me, like most I'm sure, getting organized is an on-going project with no end in sight, and with every change incremental - the only other option is to get rid of everything and start over again. One of my early upgrades was to build a pegboard door in front of shelves where I had cans of screws and nails, this to give me more hanging space. The original open shelves, less the pegboard door and with the stacked multi-layers of coffee cans can be seen at the right. As the object was to organize the screws and nails, the next step was to put everything in stacked bins - pretty simple to reach in, lift bins off the top and remove the needed one from the pile. Following on, I modified the design of a "hardware storage cabinet" from Woodsmith Magazine and used that to organize all the various screws, bolts and assorted hardware that I had lying around. The hardware is stored either in it's original package or in small zip lock bags that I bought in bulk - makes it very easy to find a specific size and type. Again to increase hanging wall space, I built sliding pegboards doors over the shelf unit - still need to organize what's on the shelf - the doors total about 2/3 of the length and allow me to access to everything on the shelves. I have both a benchtop planer and disc/drum sander and built a cabinet to hold both, with drawers underneath to hold the belts and sanding drums as well as the various accessories for both of them. The center shelf slides out so that I can use the planer without swapping the two tools, but I do move the planer to the top if I'm running a lot of material through it as the table is only about 20" above the floor level; the sander height is perfect with it on the top. Latest completed project was a storage cabinet underneath my router table to hold the bits and various accessories for the router table, keeping them mostly organized rather than just dumped in the space. Showing the router bits in removable blocks which hold 6 router bits, organized by type - roundover, cove, ogee, etc. My main workbench consists of a Kreg base with a maple top, I'm currently working on similar storage inserts for it to make better use of the storage space underneath it - rolling drawers under the lower section, full-length drawers in the next layer which can be accessed from either side of the bench, and a top unit with multiple shallow drawers for storing smaller hand tools.
  7. tomp

    92 Printable Rulers

    Very handy. Thanks.
  8. tomp

    Track Saw

    I believe that Eurekazone came first and Tru-Trac is an offshoot - a little history there as I understand. With a LH blade saw, the blade runs down the anti-chip strip on the left of the (symmetrical) track, and the "offcut" would be to the left, with the keeper part on the right and under the track. Otherwise, you would have to offset the track by the width of the saw kerf. Before the Tru-Trac, I had a homemade guide - 1/4" tempered hardboard with a plywood fence - both work the same way but the track seems a little more convenient somehow. The commercial tracks normally come with some type of "anti-slip" feature so they don't need to be clamped in most situations - pre-finished plywood and melamine both need to have the track clamped, but I normally clamp the track when I'm trimming a door too, but then I'm kind of a belt and suspenders type.
  9. tomp

    Track Saw

    I have a Tru-Trac, the first rail I bought many years ago. It's my first choice when cutting off doors, shown here trimming up a panel that I biscuit-joined from two smaller ones. I have since switched to Eurekazone because they seemed to be expanding their product past just a basic track - I have their bridge/router set-up for cutting dadoes across panels - but still reach for the Tru-Trac for straight cutting. I feel that their tapered alignment on the track is much easier/quicker than trying to line up the square rib seen on other brands (even Festool), the saw almost seems to line itself up with the track. EZ had more to offer in the way of clamps and other accessories which was my main reason for switching. Here the track is set up to trim the bottom of a door - you can see the partial label at the bottom. At the time, Tru-Trac didn't offer a clamp, this is what I cobbled up using a piece of connector extrusion. Here a tapered filler is being cut - the cut line is marked on the top of the part, the anti-chip edge aligned with the pencil line and the track clamped to the part. With the track flipped over, showing the part trimmed to the required taper. As an aside, part of the reason that I like the Tru-Trac may be the Milwaukee saw that I have set up to use with it, perhaps the smoothest circular saw that I've used. Take care mounting the saw to the base - I'm guessing that they still provide a little jig for setting the base parallel to the saw blade (a critical step if you want good results), very basic but it gets the job done.
  10. tomp

    Hole Saws

    If you're going to stick pretty much to the same size, why not take the time to make a template for your router - the hole can be cut with a fly cutter as shown, sized to match the bit and template guide used. A couple of passes with the router will give you nice smooth blanks, just stick the material to a sacrificial backing board with a couple of tabs of double-stick tape.
  11. tomp

    Window Mounted Fan For Spraying Lacquer

    Take every care in the world, follow every safety rule but, when it's your turn.......... Just received this news about a friend and member of our motorcycle chapter http://foxbaltimore.com/news/local/tree-being-removed-in-anne-arundel-falls-on-motorcyclist-killing-him
  12. tomp

    New Challenges

    I've used through dowels on straight joints to reinforce the corners on drawers - assembled the drawers with rabbets, glued and clamped and then added the dowels as a final operation. This is the pull-out shelf for a utility storage cabinet where I used this method, seems to give a nice strong joint with minimal work. Because the drawer will show when pulled out, and there's no separate drawer front being added, I didn't want to go with pocket screws.
  13. tomp

    New Challenges

    They also offer the Dowelmax Jr., not as fancy but claim that it will perform all the same functions. https://www.amazon.com/Dowelmax-DMX-Jr-Jr/dp/B00BGS8YNU/ref=pd_sim_469_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BGS8YNU&pd_rd_r=KKN49FTSXQ2RTREZ4SA6&pd_rd_w=418l0&pd_rd_wg=eniQ9&psc=1&refRID=KKN49FTSXQ2RTREZ4SA6
  14. tomp

    New Challenges

    That's the problem. all those really neat tools out there and no budget............... I'm not a big fan of mitered joints like that, always felt that the point was vulnerable to damage. The dowel jig looks like a beautiful piece of equipment, but I'd probably stay with the Domino (or maybe biscuit joiner) for a straight miter joint. The thru dowels do make a distinctive accent though, same way as using a Domino from the outside of a completed joint and making the dominoes out of a contrasting wood.
  15. tomp

    New Challenges

    Plan B? Don't know how practical it is, but it's an interesting concept - the ends of the dowels would be oval when trimmed flush. Wonder if the holes were drilled in each part before assembly, or drilled thru after assembly. Well, amazing what you can find on the internet, look at about 8:00 minutes into the video.

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