Good morning guys, I'm working on making some larger panel cuts and am wondering what size you make your TS sleds? I have a very nice small one but the width just doesn't allow me to cut things like cabinet sides. Would love to see some pics to gleem some ideas from.

 

As a side note I need to cut some plywood with some oval cut outs, I don't have the luxury of a cnc what would be the best way to reduce tearout in these cuts?

Pat, the easiest way to eliminate tear out is to use a router and and a down spiral bit. Rockler sells a jig that works well for circles and ellipses. http://www.rockler.com/rockler-ellipse-circle-router-jig?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_JTUBRD4ARIsAL7_VeWG1z6KNuNqGFxbUWMCwZUp7GxMdgkSt1eWyTxDs2tx6h_IsUCpxOAaAhO2EALw_wcB

Edited February 15, 20188 yr by Gene Howe

Hey @Gene Howe - the link does not work, at least for me...

Well, crap. Doesn't work for me, either. Sorry, guys. 

I just googled "rockler circle jig" to get to that page. They sell two. The one I have is the blue one that does ellipses. 

 

Is this the one?

https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Ellipse-Circle-Router-Jig/dp/B001DT4TSG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001DT4TSG

That's it. Leave it to Amazon...and Herb... to get it right. Thanks, Herb.

Pat ,if you are doing small oval cut outs, it might be best to make a template and route them out using the same bit Gene recommended with a router bushing or a bearing guide.

Herb

Pat, as far as a sled width, I have made them so that a 2' wide piece of plywood will fit to be cut for cabinet sides. Just copy the one you have now only larger. The only draw back to them is where to put them when you are not making cabinets, they are big and  clunky,always in the way.

Herb

Edited February 15, 20188 yr by Dadio

For cutting panels the fence should be on the "leading" edge of the fence.  This allows you to ba closer to the saw and have greater control when cutting.

 

 

This sled is on a 12" table saw and I never move it off the saw.. I only use this set up for cross cuts.. its 48" wide be 37 deep.

 First picture is a few months after I built it. The second picture I have added a wood planner knob in the fore ground to pull the sled toward me as I cut the panels.. I think this is the best set up for safe working conditions...

  18" vise grips to hold the sled secure to the two slides in the saw grooves and they are used as stops for cutting lengths of wood.

  Since I don't have room for work benches in my shop the table saws are work benches... and are very sturdy I might add. I do have rectangle tubing installed for another Grizzly fence but never use it..as it sits up on a shelf somewhere.. my shop is 30 x 62 but after a while a person runs out of room no matter have big it is to start with..

  It took a while to get this sled zeroed in but now for ten years or so even with checking its accuracy really often  I don't ever have to readjust it.

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback I'm thinking the sled Idea will work well. 

 

Smallpatch, I don't think I could leave mine in place as I do a ton of rip cuts. I think I will go with a design with the one runner and a long tail like this.

Here's my version.

Pat I tried a one runner model and I come up with more side movement than I wanted.  So to help there I finally found the 12" saw at a school auction..

   You could still make a 2 runner model but would be a bugger to set off and on when not using....Sorry I couldn't help.

9 minutes ago, Smallpatch said:

Pat I tried a one runner model and I come up with more side movement than I wanted.  So to help there I finally found the 12" saw at a school auction..

   You could still make a 2 runner model but would be a bugger to set off and on when not using....Sorry I couldn't help.

The side of my TS is very flat If I get too much play I might add a "side" runner. Your help was very much appreciated we just do different things with our saws.

Pat, I have 2 sleds. One is very much like the one you made. Single wooden runner. I copied the idea from "Norm". I had another version of the sled with the "fence" piece across the leading edge but with my small saw it was a little awkward to use. I use this one mostly for squaring panel ends. The framing square is for scale.

 

 

 

The other sled is a crosscut sled. It is a gathering of ideas. I have begun to use metal runners instead of wood or plastic. The sled was totally over engineered and really heavy.

 

I added a stop to the sled/table saw to prevent it from going too far thru the blade. It's just a bolt threaded into the side wing and a stop block fastened to the side of the sled.

 

The bottom and a view of the blade protection block

I like to have the right hand side extended to at least the width of the TS top width. The reason being that it will support the cut off from twisting as it comes off and not interfering with the return travel and for safety reasons. Also it gives the sled some counter weight to keep from tipping from the weight on the left hand side after the drop off is free. I have also seen where they are made with a fixed off cut side to support the cut off to eliminate tear out, but this does not help the counter balance issue.

I also prefer the work to abutt the back side (operator side) of the sled as opposed to the far side.

 

Herb

 

 

Edited February 20, 20188 yr by Dadio