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I received the new control board and potentiometer late yesterday from Delta.  I was pleased that is came a lot sooner than they had said it would.  Today I set about replacing it.

 

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I started with removing the knobs.  The red on/off lever requires an Allen wrench to remove the screw found at the lever pivot location and the speed set knob had an Allen screw which tightened down on the potentiometer shaft.  Both came off without any fuss.

 

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I removed the corner screws that hold the top cover on and remover it.  Notice the rocker switch.  The forward/reverse lever slides over it to change directions.

 

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I removed the potentiometer on the left and pushed it inside.  To go any further the whole switch assembly had to be removed from the head stock.  Four Phillips head screws hold it on.  I was surprised at how little dust was inside.  I do run the vacuum over the air circulation louvers on the back from time to time.

 

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There is a Phillips head screw on each corner.  I removed them and noted that at least four wires needed to unplugged from the board.  I cut a wire tie that was holding the wires in a bundle and went and got some masking tape and marked the wires so I knew where they went on the new card.  The wires on the corner of the board had terminals marked M+ and M- marked on the board.  The other two wires more to the center of the board were connecter to terminals marked AC1 and AC2 on the board.  Marked the wires and removed them.  The terminal plugs didn't have any locks holding them on but did require a strong pull to get them off.  I didn't know if the board would come out yet because there were still four other wires running over the board.  A couple of those looked like the board had to come out to unplug them so I gave it a shot.  You can see an aluminum heat sink at the lower edge in the picture above and that is the side of the board that has to come up and out from under the wires first.  A little fussy but not too bad.  The new one went in without much trouble either.

 

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Plugged the wires in and mounted the potentiometer.  The potentiometer had a locating pin so it can only go in one way.  Reversed the removal process and mounted the switch assemble, installed the knobs and plugged it in.  Hummed like a new one again.  All smiles here. 

 

 

 

 

excellent...

is the old board repairable..

Dan, thanks for sharing and that came weeks earlier than you expecting it I think! Really glad it went so well for you.

 

Steve

  • Author
26 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

excellent...

is the old board repairable..

 

I am going to have my son look at it.  He is the electronic repairman of the family.  I can't see any visible damage.  On another site I was told there is a varistor  that is used as a fuse across the power inputs so we'll see.

Glad your up & running again Dan. Too bad Delta doesn't offer a reconditioned board. When I had to replace the circuit board on our Kenmore Dryer (Whirlpool) I was able to obtain a refurbed unit and got $60 for the old core. Saved a bundle over a new board and carried the same warranty.

time to find a super surge protector...

 

Dan I have been looking at one of those for my upgrade. How do you like it? Have you turned anything big yet? Does it have enough power? If so the slowest speed is 250, was that slow enough? 

  • Author
15 minutes ago, RustyFN said:

Dan I have been looking at one of those for my upgrade. How do you like it? Have you turned anything big yet? Does it have enough power? If so the slowest speed is 250, was that slow enough? 

 

It is a great lathe.  Has plenty of power, runs smooth and is as quiet as can be.  I have had it a few years now with no regrets.  I don't turn many big items but it has worked well for what I have done.  It has never given me a problem until Mother Nature took a shot at it last weekend.

I've repaired circuit boards by finding simple flaws. A cold solder connection is common and can work fine for long periods. They are very hard to find, but a magnifying glass and a probe may find it.  I also remove all plug in ports and clean with contact cleaner and a small brush or q-tip.  The worst to find is a cracked circuit on the  board.  Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. That was the case on my garage door opener.  I tried so many time, got it working and it failed. Again and again. I did solve the problem..........I crushed it with a sledge. The replacement cost  bout the same as a new opener. So I got an new opener, it was old anyway

10 hours ago, HandyDan said:

 

It is a great lathe.  Has plenty of power, runs smooth and is as quiet as can be.  I have had it a few years now with no regrets.  I don't turn many big items but it has worked well for what I have done.  It has never given me a problem until Mother Nature took a shot at it last weekend.

Thanks Dan

  • 2 years later...

My bet is thats it's the varistor on the heatsink....

  • 4 years later...

I just fixed one for a customer. It was the opto isolator on the pcb.

 

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