May 2, 20179 yr If you think carbide router bits are delicate creatures, check out this Youtube video from Tom Lipton, a machinist in the San Francisco area. The interesting part starts at about 8:45 and goes to the end. Yep, it grabbed me by the short hairs too! NOTE: NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART! But certainly educational. Jon-439 (from the WOOD Magazine forums)
May 2, 20179 yr lube for the bit would have helped.. not climb cutting and providing router support so the router didn't ''rock'' would have increased safety.. so where was the ''pucker''???...
May 2, 20179 yr Ughh, haven't seen the video yet, but based on Stick's comments, climb cutting. I love climb cutting on edge profiles, it's all I do, been doing it since I been routering over 35 years. No kickbacks or grabs yet, but like I said, it's the way I do it, I'm just used to it. I know it goes against the safety rules, but the finished edge sure is nice, and it's great when working with porous lumber such as ash and oak, no splintering or boo boo's. But yep, if you aint got a hold on the router, climb cutting can be hazardous to project and whatever. You gotta be comfortable with it.
May 2, 20179 yr 2 hours ago, John Morris said: haven't seen the video yet, this guy is cutting aluminum...
May 2, 20179 yr Thanks, I stopped watching ouch videos a long time ago. I got enough bad visions in my head to last. I don't even watch scary movies. I've never routed aluminum. Cut it, but not route.
May 2, 20179 yr 18 minutes ago, John Morris said: Thanks, I stopped watching ouch videos a long time ago it's not an ouch video... but his method could use a touch of improvement... 18 minutes ago, John Morris said: I've never routed aluminum. treat it like Buloke [sp?].. dry lube the better quality bit... wax the router base... wax the material top surface... no climb cutting... max out the router support so it doesn't rock...
May 3, 20179 yr Author Tom Lipton is cutting STEEL. He made two hand wheels, each with 5 spokes. The small one you see in the video. The other is 4 feet in diameter. He used two different sized round over bits, the one you see, and a 3/8" radius on the large hand wheel. Like he said, he used what he called a "beater" router, not his good one. The chips on the floor were blue in color, so they were heated to a high temperature when they left the router bit. Had he used a lubricant he would probably have had a fire ignite. Edited May 3, 20179 yr by Jon 439
May 3, 20179 yr you are correct.. it is steel... lubricant is dry lubricant not wet to prevent chips from binding to the cutter...
May 3, 20179 yr 2 minutes ago, Stick486 said: you are correct.. it is steel... lubricant is dry lubricant not wet to prevent chips from binding to the cutter... Stick, what kind of dry lube would you use for steel? What brand? Been doing a little research on routering alumn, research turned up suggestions to lube aluminum with WD-40 to prevent shavings from sticking to the bit and clogging it. But what about steel?
May 3, 20179 yr 2 hours ago, John Morris said: routering alumn, research turned up suggestions to lube aluminum with WD-40 to prevent shavings from sticking to the bit and clogging it. But what about steel? WD is a mistake... it's a wet something that attracts all kinds of trash.. does more harm than good in the scheme of things... makes for a humongous mess and if it gets into the tool kiss the router goodby.. prone to flash fire and really doesn't work all that well but it's convenient... I am real partial to Triflow... most any dry lube will work providing it's has Teflon/PFTE... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]... CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants.. criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming. extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, no silicone, long list of compatibilities and is really long lasting.. or any or all of the features WD hasn't got.... Edited May 3, 20179 yr by Stick486
May 3, 20179 yr 1 minute ago, Stick486 said: WD is a mistake... it's a wet lube that attracts all kinds of trash.. does more harm than good... makes for a humongous mess and if it gets into the tool kiss the router goodby.. prone to flash fire and really doesn't work all that well but it's convenient... I am real partial to Triflow... most any dry lube will work providing it's has Teflon/PFTE... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]... CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants.. criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming. extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, no silicone, long list of improbabilities and long lasting.. or all of the features WD hasn't got.... Great info, thanks man!!! I'm learning here.
May 3, 20179 yr one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and think that you didn't apply enough you probably applied too much.. very very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way... wait till you do the arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... just thoroughly clean it before lubing.. great release agent too... extend the life of your tooling.. Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts. Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also less prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm. Edited May 3, 20179 yr by Stick486
May 3, 20179 yr 18 minutes ago, John Morris said: Great info, thanks man!!! I'm learning here. @John Morris had to go back and edit...
May 3, 20179 yr 5 minutes ago, Stick486 said: @John Morris had to go back and edit... I'll re-read, thanks!
May 3, 20179 yr Thanks Jon...certainly was interesting but not anything I will ever attempt to try. I was glad to see him wear gloves while using the router to brush chips away...I was worried a bit when he was truing wheel ID on the lathe then de-burred the handle bores and used his bare hands to wipe chips away...Good way to obtain a nasty slash. Would have liked to have seen what type of eye/face protection he wore too...assume it was goggles under a full face shield. Regardless still interesting...thanks for sharing.
October 31, 20196 yr This is no different than the new cut off saws that use carbide metal cutting blades. Loud and hot and loud....
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