Everytime I rehab a plane or do a bit of "upkeep" to one, I tend to set up a bit of scrap to test the plane out.   kind of fun WHEN they are set up right.   Also shows me what needs attention...

Already had the Fulton done, and had a Craftsman ready....then the camera.....got the camera to work again..for a little while

Made  by millers falls.   Had to completely re-do the bevel on the iron....hey, they do tend to  wear a bit.   Checked on a couple other planes...

This Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7  had a bit of rust on the sole.   C;eaned it up, and check the settings....

then started on the next little plane..

A Stanley No. 6c, type 10.  Wax the sole, and move on..

A Stanley No. 5-1/2 Jumbo Jack.  Type 17 makes it almost the youngest of the group..  Now, I do have two Stanley Jack planes...the No. 5c has a cambered edge to the iron, the Stanley No. 5 smooth sole?

Seems to be about ready?   Which leaves a No. 4 sized plane to check on..

A Stanley No. 4 Type 13 SW model.   Seems to be about ready? 

 

That be the main group of planes.   I also tried out a Stanley No.7c, type 9....but then the camera locked up, again.   Grrrrrrr. 

Maybe next time, I'll have a larger piece of pine scrap?

Lots of nice curlys! Good thing you ran out of planes to tune up before you ran out of board

They look good and done right.

Every one will pull a shaving you can read the New York Times through.....the man knows his stuff.....

You do a very nice job rehabbing them Steve.

Trying to get a few block planes sharpened back up..

Millers Falls #56B vs white oak......needs more tune up...

Stanley 60-1/2 :Cordovan......needs a few trips down a strop..

Stanley 9-1/2...meh.....maybe tomorrow I can finish them up?

10 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Millers Falls #56B vs white oak......needs more tune up...

Like that one...got one just like it...close to having it all refurbed...mine originally had Black Japanning though...yours look like it still has the original "maroon" color Japanning??? Sweet little low angle model...

I'll try to get some of the PIP posted yet this year.

 

10 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Stanley 60-1/2 :Cordovan......needs a few trips down a strop..

Never seen one of those with the adjustable throat opening Steven...nice...

?? for you...do you put any 'chamber' on your block plane irons?

Edited December 21, 20169 yr by Grandpadave52

Millers falls #56B was always black japanning.....the Cordovan was something Stanley used before they went with that ugly blue colour.   Late 60s, I think....Stanley had a full range of planes in that colour...I even have a # 9-1/4 block plane in that "maroon"  colour.   Sold a 9-1/2 last year in Cordovan.  

 

I do not put any camber on block plane irons,  have a hard enough time keeping the edges straight across.. 

7 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Millers falls #56B was always black japanning.....the Cordovan was something Stanley used before they went with that ugly blue colour.   Late 60s, I think....Stanley had a full range of planes in that colour...I even have a # 9-1/4 block plane in that "maroon"  colour.   Sold a 9-1/2 last year in Cordovan.  

Good information to know...thanks

I do not put any camber on block plane irons,  have a hard enough time keeping the edges straight across.. 

Also good to know...I have used the "ruler trick" for the micro bevel and also on a couple for oh so slight camber, but really couldn't tell much difference...glad to know I'm not the only one that struggles keeping the edges straight 

 

8 hours ago, steven newman said:

Millers falls #56B was always black japanning.....the Cordovan was something Stanley used before they went with that ugly blue colour.   Late 60s, I think....Stanley had a full range of planes in that colour...I even have a # 9-1/4 block plane in that "maroon"  colour.   Sold a 9-1/2 last year in Cordovan.  

 

I do not put any camber on block plane irons,  have a hard enough time keeping the edges straight across.. 

The Cordovan plane you sold me is in my hands frequently when i am in my shop.  People laugh at old tools, but I have a Lie Nielsen rabbiting block plane and a Veritas Apron plane....I pretty much use all three regularly.

 

50 year old Stanly plays with his younger brothers just fine....and once in awhile gets the better of them!

Edited December 21, 20169 yr by Miataguy
spelling

8 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

 

I try not to use the ruler trick as I find it easiest just to get the back dead nuts flat and then keep it that way.

 

Especially with chisels, a large part of the difference between a $ 12 chisel from Home Depot and an $80 chisel from Lie Nielson or $120 chisel from Blue Spruce Toolworks is the machining.

 

I have a Lowes 2" chisel dedicated to just first class saw cuts.  It took me about an hour and a half to get the back dead flat and the sides dead coplaner....but it works very well now that I have sharpened it on a 13,000 grit stone.

 

But it never gets used for anything other than laying out first class crosscuts in hardwood.

 

I have an ECE Primus #4 plane that is my go to final finisher....it will outperform even my vintage stanley #4 and Lie Nielson #4 smoothers....but the back of the blade is just absolutely dead flat.

 

Found that not every blade needs to be perfect.... have a type 17 Stanley #4 that  sees use on deck boards, fence posts, and painted passage doors to adjust fit....the back gets a little flatter each time I resharpen it...over time it started performing enough better that now ti is a backup smoother and I have another Type 17 Stanly 4 I sue for coarse work.

 

Problem is that my OTHER type 17 #4 was from Mr. Newman himself...it is set up so well and cuts so well that I do not have the heart to use it for coarse work either....

 

So methinks I will be buying another vintage #4 for coarse work.  At least that is what I will tell my wife.

Edited December 21, 20169 yr by Miataguy

Also, I have found bevel up planes work much, much better when you polish the back of the blades dead, dead flat....not only my block planes, but  have a friend who shares my shop.  he bought a wood river bevel up jack...it performs very, very well now that the back of the blade is flat....it did not do much at first...

 

This is all just my two cents...and yes I struggle keeping edges strait also.  After awhile putting my blades on a high end grinder or Tormek brings them back to perfect....