Anyone ever used this stuff. Sounds unique and lots of possibilities

 

.http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/148740/Wood-Filler-WB-8oz-Natural.aspx?gclid=CIbRk9H6ps8CFUuRfgodqTYICg

all the time.. suburb stuff..

fills, blends. grain repair...

note.. use plastic tooling only.. metal turns it black while it's still wet and hasn't cured..

Mohawk and Famowood.too...

 

Gotta get some. I want to play!!  

Post a picture of somewhere you used it.

Thanks

Heard nothing but good about it Ron. The stuff Stick mentioned too is supposed to be pretty good. Personally, don't use the stuff. Been years since I had a need for it. When I was doing a lot of case work I always had filler around, or made my own.

I want something like that to create art within wood. Been looking for something like it that for a long time.

1 hour ago, Ron Altier said:

Gotta get some. I want to play!!  

Post a picture of somewhere you used it.

Thanks

moved all of the handles and hinges,,, plugged the holes...

wild gain separation/tear out on the left door, right side of valence and left side top drawer...

20 minutes ago, Ron Altier said:

I want something like that to create art within wood. Been looking for something like it that for a long time.

like an inlay???

Wow, that looks great. I will get some soon. I have some spalted wood that is unstable and that should do the job so I can turn it into something wonderful, at least wonderful to like guys like us.

 

Thanks

don't ''fill'' a hole... elongate it w/ a surface furrow/key-way following the grain and go from there..

layer/vein the colors don't mix them..

think burn in sticks w/o the heat and using plastic palette knives...

and.... intermediate and miniature sized detail/veiner/V-parting carving tools are your friend...

Edited September 24, 20169 yr by Stick486

18 minutes ago, Ron Altier said:

Wow, that looks great. I will get some soon. I have some spalted wood that is unstable and that should do the job so I can turn it into something wonderful, at least wonderful to like guys like us.

 

Thanks

BTW...

unstable how???

6 hours ago, Ron Altier said:

I want something like that to create art within wood. Been looking for something like it that for a long time.

 

 

Ron, I don't know exactly what you have in mind but you may want to check out Jimson's stuff youtube channel. He has done some beautiful work using a two part epoxy putty called milliput I bought some but just haven't gotten around to doing anything with it as yet. One of guys in our club has done some bowls with it and they look great.

 

Steve

Tmate is great, but has some cautions.  It's water based, and no matter how dried, you can just add water to reconstitute.  OTOH, water based finishes will re-paste it.  It's best as a grain filler, such as with oak that you want to show a highly reflective surface.  As a hole-filler, it's pretty good for small holes, but at about and over 1/8" dimension, the Tmate material is pretty soft, and can come off easily.  Best for grain fill and brad/pin holes, small headed screws.  Lots of colors to aid in staining.  They have a website but you have to speak Strailin.

You don't want to use timbermate on edges for some if it will be gone with just a very small bump. Its not so bad out in the middle of an area. I alway think of sheetrock mud when I use timbermate for both seems like the same product.

 When I need something wild I add glitter to epoxy. And if that piece of furniture is going in a kids room they will love it. Us grown folks like wild things also. About half of my clocks lately have been glittered, if that's a word.

A YouTube video showed a luthier using Timber mate natural, to fill a small long horn skull design he'd cut into a fret board. It was about 1/8" deep. He said it was an inexpensive way to simulate mother of pearl.

Before it dried, he dribbled a few drops of runny CA on it. He said that made it durable for the fret board which gets a lot of use. 

Timbermate can be colored with water soluble powders. For small inlays, it's a lot less hassle than epoxy and way more easier to clean up.

Stick,part of the spalt is beautiful, however some was past dry rot. I hope to stabilize the piece enough to turn it. 

1 minute ago, Ron Altier said:

Stick,part of the spalt is beautiful, however some was past dry rot. I hope to stabilize the piece enough to turn it. 

that's a turner question...

doubt if timber mate will help you w/ this...

40 minutes ago, Ron Altier said:

Stick,part of the spalt is beautiful, however some was past dry rot. I hope to stabilize the piece enough to turn it. 

Then, epoxy would be better.

Thanks for the info............Don't have to worry now........The piece is gone. Musta tossed it with some scrap wood. 

Still going to get some timber mate and give it a shot  mostly as a grain filler, if it works

I have coffee cans full of different colors of saw dust that I just mix Titebond with...

1 hour ago, Kevin Beitz said:

I have coffee cans full of different colors of saw dust that I just mix Titebond with...

But, Timbermate takes a stain.