On 9/15/2016 at 5:28 AM, Stick486 said:

a much longer flex line so you can pull the dryer away from the wall and work behind it...

 

Did it, that was the ticket Stick, I have no idea why I did not think of that. I purchased a 4 foot line, I was able to squeeze behind the dryer, take a seat on my butt, and comfortably work from there. Still had a FUBAR in the sense that the valve coming of from the wall, is a standard 3/8" and the inflow stem leading into the dryer was a 5/8"! Go figure, when did they start doing that! So I had to climb back out of my comfy sitting position, and drive down to the hardware store, and purchase a reducer. It's finally in, working, and all is well. Thanks Stick.

On 9/15/2016 at 7:01 AM, steven newman said:

I had it easy.....I just plugged in the cord.     Needed a tin riser to get the exhaust piping done over to the basement window. 

 

As for the stove in the kitchen.....there iS a gas outlet.....but I had an electric stove, figures.    Had to install another breaker in the box, run 10/3 w/ground romex to a NEW outlet that matched the stove's plug.  Got the right plug on the second trip to Lowes....normal.

There was a brief moment Steve I was going to call Sears and just have them deliver a danged electric model of what we purchased. I could have easily just moved it in place, and plugged it in, done!

On 9/15/2016 at 7:04 AM, scarletjim said:

Here's an idea using magnetic connectors from Lee Valley

MagVent Dryer Vent Connectors - Lee Valley Tools.pdf

James, that is a fantastic idea! Thanks for finding this!

@Michael Thuman, or anyone how knows plumbing, the folks at the hardware store told me the gas line and fittings I have, do not need any type of tape, sealant, or dope, I just tighten the fitting on each other, because they are tapered fittings, so nothing at all is used to help the seal, according to them, if I were to use any type of sealant on the tapered fittings, it would actually jeopardize the seal.

Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!

All remember 0 first check you local codes.  I do not know if gas lines are permitted to be run inside walls.

It may be they have to be run thru floors and thru walls only.  With no joint in side a closed space.

 

As an alternate extend the pipe coming thru the floor now.

1. Turn off gas.

2. Undo existing connection to dryer.

3. Reapply pipe dope to the male threads of the pipe coming thru the floor.

4. install an additional Pipe about 30" long to bring the pipe near the top of the dryer.

5. Reinstall the components you removed in 2. 

6. Check for leaks.

7. Enjoy.

 

18 minutes ago, John Morris said:

@Michael Thuman, or anyone how knows plumbing, the folks at the hardware store told me the gas line and fittings I have, do not need any type of tape, sealant, or dope, I just tighten the fitting on each other, because they are tapered fittings, so nothing at all is used to help the seal, according to them, if I were to use any type of sealant on the tapered fittings, it would actually jeopardize the seal.

Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!

 Black iron threaded pipe requires a sealant on the threads period.   It can be the special Teflon tape or preferably paste type sealant for gas.    The brass flare type fittings do not get sealant on the flair part.    Roly

Edited September 16, 20169 yr by Roly

3 minutes ago, Roly said:

 Black iron threaded pipe requires a sealant on the threads period.   It can be the special Teflon tape or preferably paste type sealant for gas.    The brass flare type fittings do not get sealant on the flair part.    Roly

Thanks Roly, my gas valve is already installed, but what I am dealing with are the steel fittings from the gas valve to the dryer. And the steel fittings are flare type.

Be very careful on the tape or sealant and make sure it specifies it is suitable for Natural Gas or LP.

That is why I use the term pipe dope it is and always has been for gas.

The dry NPT thread can be tightened so that no leaks exist.  But the dope does two things it lubricates the threads allowing them to couple closer and fills any and all gaps.

To keep in professional wipe up the left over dope with a old rag and do NOT re-use it.

To clarify further and as was mentioned the SAE 45 deg brass fittings get no dope at all.

Only the pipe threads get dope.

 

Let me clarify  The flares part of the fittings whether brass or iron do not take sealant,  the threaded pipe part of the fitting does.   The nut to tighten the flair does not.   The regular pipe threads are the tapered threads which need sealant. Roly     Was typing at same time as MT same answer

Edited September 16, 20169 yr by Roly

1 minute ago, Roly said:

Let me clarify  The flares part of the fittings whether brass or iron do not take sealant,  the threaded pipe part of the fitting does.   The nut to tighten the flair does not.   The regular pipe threads are the tapered threads which need sealant. Roly

Got it Roly, clear as a bell now! I did just that, I did put pipe joint sealant on the reducer threads to the dryer, but not on the flared ends of anything. Thanks Roly.

1 hour ago, John Morris said:

Got it Roly, clear as a bell now! I did just that, I did put pipe joint sealant on the reducer threads to the dryer, but not on the flared ends of anything. Thanks Roly.

You did it right.

To throw another wiggle in it.  Gas fittings have a 45 degree flare

                                                 Hydraulic fittings on your log splitter have a 37 degree flare

They are not to be mixed and matched.