Like I said I'm not a finishing expert and that just my best guess. Another thing is I away fast enough to keep a wet edge.

greg fee said:

I agree with you richard on this, the only screw up is my lack of really mixing the semi well. On my earlier gloss coats it looked great, so the technique works with the 'swirling Denny's clean the table method' I am sanding again to take some of the heavier overcoats to bring them in line with the thinner ones which left ridges (as seen in the photo), will mix the semi again really well and get back at swirling another coat on, will keep you guys informed on the results later today, much appreciate all of your input, it sure helps.
greg

I'm into my 8 or 9th wipe on poly for this table top, having some swirling issues with the cut poly that I am putting down. Have followed the Jim Kull posting on how it is done, one thing for sure is you have to work fast to keep an even flow of material hitting the surface and don't go back... which I have done for the most part, messed up once thinking I could just fix something back there... big mistake, Jim you were right, just keep on goin'. I'm digressing, back to the swirling looks, anyone have suggestion on how to avoid this. I am using a foam like cloth pad about 4" square, did the pad in the well mixed 50/50 poly, squish it out to avoid the flooding, then start and keep on in a even pattern like you would clean a table top. The surface is 8'x42", so it's a good size to get covered and keep the solution even. I dip it only twice, again, squeezing the excess out before putting the pad back down. suggestions pls. tks greg

your using one of those painting pads?  they also use big ones on wood floors.  And as always (In my honest opinion, IMHO)

 

Go only in one direction after you've buffed out that layer.

  That's how wood floors are done.

will give it a shot dragon

dragon1 said:

your using one of those painting pads?  they also use big ones on wood floors.  And as always (In my honest opinion, IMHO)

 

Go only in one direction after you've buffed out that layer.

That's how wood floors are done.

Since this is a table top. Why not apply the poly full strength? Applying the poly full strength will build solids to the table faster. Since this is a table, I feel, should have a good amount of protection   which is the solids in the poly. So by thinning 50% your are reducing the film thickness by half. So more coats are needed. Additionally, If you wipe back a poly, you are reducing your film thickness.

 

I like to apply poly with a cotton rag folded smoothly. I pour my finish into a plastic pie tin from the fast food places and get to it. I wipe in one direction with the grain careful to not over work it. You must keep a wet edge and let it flow out. On larger surfaces, you need to work fast, so no distractions in the shop. Scuff or level between coats (follow the directions on the can) by block sanding with 400 or 600 grit.

 

3 coats and your good to go. So if satin is the finish, just 3 coats no need to start with the gloss, it won't muddle your grain at all.

 

I am a big fan of General Finishes and like the Arm-R-Seal. Has high solids,  great for tables.

 

That's just me!

 

 

 

tks mike, table is all done about 3 wks ago, looks great, did have to put quite a few coats on, but got it done, coats went on fast, dried in about 4hrs, sanded between.

Mike Frank said:

Since this is a table top. Why not apply the poly full strength? Applying the poly full strength will build solids to the table faster. Since this is a table, I feel, should have a good amount of protection   which is the solids in the poly. So by thinning 50% your are reducing the film thickness by half. So more coats are needed. Additionally, If you wipe back a poly, you are reducing your film thickness.

 

I like to apply poly with a cotton rag folded smoothly. I pour my finish into a plastic pie tin from the fast food places and get to it. I wipe in one direction with the grain careful to not over work it. You must keep a wet edge and let it flow out. On larger surfaces, you need to work fast, so no distractions in the shop. Scuff or level between coats (follow the directions on the can) by block sanding with 400 or 600 grit.

 

3 coats and your good to go. So if satin is the finish, just 3 coats no need to start with the gloss, it won't muddle your grain at all.

 

I am a big fan of General Finishes and like the Arm-R-Seal. Has high solids,  great for tables.

 

That's just me!