Not yet. I still have to reassemble it. It has been repainted in John Deere green too. I will strip it after reassembly. I want to make sure it's all there before I go through the big job of repainting it. I paid $100 for it, but they are not easy to find up here. The Allatt was $125 and is mint has a strong stand, motor and even came with a 4" jointer. It is a deadly functioning piece of kit. The best part was it came with a new thin kerf Freud rip blade that I really needed too. Kijiji is great!!

Looking forward to seeing yours complete Barry.

I purchased a Delta 10" Tilt top earlier this year but haven't started the restoration yet. Mine is a '47 or '48 model.

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John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Where does one find the serial number on these?

Barry on my Delta 10" Tilt Top it is under the table on the side where the belt going to the motor is located.

Here is a link to the discussion here on The Patriot Woodworker about the one I got.

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John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

John,

No I haven't gotten it finished.

I just keep stumbling from one disaster to another.

This past weekend I had to install a new well pump. They've almost tripled in price since the last one. $$$$$

It's going to be a long month, only 3 weeks to payday.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

John Moody said:

Larry, did you get yours finished? I couldn't remember.

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John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Barry,

Depending on the age of the machine it may or may not have a serial number.

Delta didn't start putting serial numbers on machines until 1939 or 1940 depending on the machine.

The 1160 was a 1937 introduction to their machine lineup.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host
Barry A. Crowe said:

Where does one find the serial number on these?

I understand. It happens here all the time. Just today, I got a call that my truck had a flat tire in the parking deck. Its always something.

Larry Buskirk said:

John,

No I haven't gotten it finished.

I just keep stumbling from one disaster to another.

This past weekend I had to install a new well pump. They've almost tripled in price since the last one. $$$$$

It's going to be a long month, only 3 weeks to payday.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

Hey Man,

I got the old Delta Tilty together.  It took some doing because somebody messed with it before and it was just a bucket of parts and the three main castings when I bought it.  The shaft to raise and lower the table was stripped, so I had to reposition it to get a nice bite from the pinion onto the shaft.  Now all I need is a motor and something to mount it on, then strip that awful green.  Can't wait to see it cut and the run out is acceptable too.

Barry,

Your's is an early 1937-38 version of the 1160.

I can tell by the head for the fence, later models (1939 and later) used the fence head in my photos.

Your's also has the early style fence tubes that the mounting bolts don't show on the outside of the tubes.

I would suspect part # TCS 234 bracket nut as your raising problem, they were made from cast Zamak on the early saws,

and brass on the later saws. It is a common failure on these saws.

The parts show up on ebay quite often, so it is possible to find a replacement.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

Hey Larry,

Thanks for the advice, but both Zamak castings are fine and not worn.  What's worn is the teeth on the shaft that hooks up to the crank that protrudes from the front of the saw to lower and raise the table, not adjust the bevel.  Because there was an area of grooves on the shaft that were not worn, I drove the pin from the stop collar, drilled another hole in the shaft and moved the collar which allowed me to engage a better part of the shaft that that did not have the grooves or teeth worn.  Now, the pinion that moves the table up and down works slicker than snot on a door knob.  It took a bit of work, but I have a good mechanical aptitude.  The thing was missing a few parts and nuts and bolts, but I keep a good selection of that stuff on hand in my shop and love fabrication - gives me a real sense of accomplishment when I can get an old machine like this purring.  Duralube also makes a world of difference in making metal parts work smoother, try it, it works!!

Barry,

Now that I've taken a closer look at your photos, I see what you're talking about.

I've had to do some fabricating myself on some of my machines.

Finding parts for 80+ year old machines can be rather difficult.

I've adapted parts from later model machines on more than one occasion.

Sometimes doing so allows the use of attachments not originally designed for the machine.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

I've got one of these in very good working condition, with a manual too.  Got it from a estate of neighbor who was a deaf woodworker. He must have took very good care of it.  I think it dates to mid-1950's.  He had table saw and Joiner on one table with two motors below...OMG needed a forklift to move!  I now have on two separate tables...and they still are pretty heavy.  

Dennis

Dennis,

The serial number will tell you the year it was manufactured.

The saws themselves weigh about 170 lbs, without the motor.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

Serial number is 72-1711, so made is 1972?

Larry Buskirk said:

Dennis,

The serial number will tell you the year it was manufactured.

The saws themselves weigh about 170 lbs, without the motor.

 

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

Dennis,

Sorry, I forgot to post the link.

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

Your saw is from 1948.

 

Larry

Dennis Rojo said:

Serial number is 72-1711, so made is 1972?

Larry Buskirk said: