I swear, i'm gonna solve this,lol.

 

the first piece (a 2x4 can be drilled to help start the first hole straight then discarded after the hole gets through the first piece)

 

how about cutting the piece into squares 2 inches thick and drilling the first one through, then glue up the second to the first and drill that, then glue a third block on, drill, then a 4th, etc....

 

or drill through the squares one at a time, all at once then glue them together.

 

by the way if you spin them against each other, you remove the excess glue that's causing the pieces to slip around.

 

a 1 inch x 12 inch  dowel inserted into the holes might help the blocks to stay straight. just make sure you wax the dowe really well and knock it out before the glue sets.

 

you could run the drill bit through occassionally to remove any excess glue after it sets or run a HOT damp rag through the hole like a rifle cleaner ( put rag on a 1/2 inch piece of scrap)  to clean out leftover glue.

 

then you can use the cone method like mike said and turn it on the lathe?

Then you could use your band saw to trim the waste block. Cut a waste block slightly larger than you need. Glue it on- roughly centered. Tilt the band saw table enough to allow the turning blank to clear to guide block with the "waste block end" setting on the table. Trim the waste block flush with the turning blank. The waste block edges will be at an angle but you are going to turn a tenon on it anyway so the angle is irrelevant. 

Charles Nicholls said:

Yep up to 45* I think.

Lewis Kauffman said:

---

Charles Nicholls
Site Host
nicholls61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
This website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look

lol that is about what i was gonna do but on a drill press!!!!! 

 

Let us know as it goes!!!

 

And where did you get the grinder mechanism?

Charles, is it the extension or is the bit shank bent.  I'm assuming that when the extension was made the manufacturer turned the extension shank and also bored it in one operation which would put the hole on dead center.  One other thing you could try is loosen all four set screw and turn the drill 90 degrees and gently bring all four screws to touch the drill before you fully tighten them.

---

Ron Dudelston
Site Host


Above and Beyond WoodWorks

I was wondering the same thing, too. The picture almost looks like the bit could be bent at the shoulder where the shank is turned to fit into the extension.

Ron Dudelston said:

Charles, is it the extension or is the bit shank bent.  I'm assuming that when the extension was made the manufacturer turned the extension shank and also bored it in one operation which would put the hole on dead center.  One other thing you could try is loosen all four set screw and turn the drill 90 degrees and gently bring all four screws to touch the drill before you fully tighten them.

---

Ron Dudelston
Site Host


Above and Beyond WoodWorks

roll it on a flat surface and adjust accordingly

 

If it is off by a few thousands, could you add a layer of the metal high temperature tape used to seal furnace ducts. Not the standard cloth duct tape but the flexible metal stuff. Might work because it probably would not compress much when the set screws were tightened.

---

Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Charles check this link out they have what looks to be the same grinder http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Antique-Style-Pepper-Mill-Mechanism-P6310C267.aspx

Charles Nicholls said:

Yea was hoping to save ourselves a few dollars in shipping costs. I didn't actually think I would get it level on the lathe but did so I'm gonna run with it.

Got it from PSI but I see that they stopped selling this type so it will be the only one I'll have that looks like this.

Oh here it is, it's on the way out at PSI though because you have to search it by part number otherwise you wont find it

Pepper Mill PKGRIND-4

dragon1 said:

I was flipping thru their catalog at the house last night and saw that, and said Charles posted a pic that looked just like that 

Charles Nicholls said:

Yea that is exactly the one, for $2 less I might add. Thanks

Greg Aksdal said:

---

Greg
Scroll Saw forum host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

you can also cut that piece and rout  out the  interior geometry and then re glue it back together.