October 15, 201213 yr Yes I am officially into the old hand tool craze This is the one that I told you all recently that I had bid on and won on ebay and had asked if it was worth fixing up, and while I never got a definitive answer on it being worth restoring, I did get a thumbs up that it would look really good after it was restored. It looks like it has been covered in dirt and oil on every metal part there is. As you can see there is old leather wrapped around it so that tells me that either that part is split, or someone had big hands and needed a bit more grip, We'll see. There is also damage to the knob so that has to go. i found out by looking around that the tote and knob are both supposed to be beechwood. i don't have any beechwood that diameter, so I will have to hunt some down. The front end of the plane has what looks to be minor cracks in it, so here is my first question, Leave the cracks as is, or try to fill it with wood glue say Titebond III? The hardware says Stanley and it was listed on eBay as a #26 Any suggestions on how to restore this old workhorse right, are greatly appreciated. Total investment so far 19.95 including shipping which was $10 Let the adventure begin! Charles Nicholls Site Host nicholls61@att.net Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 15, 201213 yr That is a great score! My warmest congratulations to you. To know but not to do is not yet to know.WWW.SAWBLADE.COM
October 15, 201213 yr Author Thanks Claude, I'm looking forward to restoring this old workhorse Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 16, 201213 yr Nice jack. I dont think the crack is a problem. If it bothers you that much, you could fill it with some epoxy. Otherwise, it looks like it could be a solid user once properly restored. (Or a $30 piece of firewood :-) )Adam WelkerRed Car Construction and Fine Woodworking
October 16, 201213 yr Author Oh no, on the contrary, I'm just asking if that should be filled to protect the wood more than anything, because I know how fast wood can expire in wetter climates. "$30 piece of firewood" LOL Silly youAdam Welker said: Nice jack. I dont think the crack is a problem. If it bothers you that much, you could fill it with some epoxy. Otherwise, it looks like it could be a solid user once properly restored. (Or a $30 piece of firewood :-) ) Adam WelkerRed Car Construction and Fine Woodworking
October 16, 201213 yr Author Yep as I figured, that leather strapping was indeed there for a reason. If anyone is willing to make a new one, lets get together and discuss price. I would do it myself but don't have the tools required. I'll even send this one to whoever makes the new one for size match up if needed. The knob however, I can fix on my end, I just have to find a piece of Beech wide enough to do the job. As my assistant is pointing out this knob is just too far beyond repair Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 17, 201213 yr The crack should be fine. I have a few wooden planes with cracks and they work great. It even adds character. Making the handle isnt as hard as you may think. A rasp or two and a turning saw ( or coping saw or band saw) would make short work of it. Veritas sells a router bit made specially for plane and saw handles but I would go the hand tool route. Its faster and looks better IMHO.I meant no offense with the firewood comment. I used a #26 as a scrub and a "sometimes" panel plane for three years when I was a teenager. The only problem was that I live in Virginia and it gets humid here. I had to joint the bottom of the plane two or three times a year just to keep it accurate. Eventually, it became firewwod and I restored a #5 that I still use today for heavy stock removal.Give the tote a try before you farm it out. You may be suprised with the results.Adam WelkerRed Car Construction and Fine Woodworking
October 17, 201213 yr Author Well my problem here is that I have no saw other than the band saw, and the bandsaw at least with it's current blade in it, wont turn corners or circles without binding so If I had a general shape of one then yea a rasp or two probably would work but again my band saw doesn't like turning corners so the tote will probably need to be farmed out. the knob though I can do myself.I just have to be able to find beech wood big enough to make the part. I thought I had a big enough piece but it's too narrow.I knew you meant no offense on the block part, I was sitting here laughing so hard I was nearly in tears LOLAdam Welker said:The crack should be fine. I have a few wooden planes with cracks and they work great. It even adds character. Making the handle isn't as hard as you may think. A rasp or two and a turning saw ( or coping saw or band saw) would make short work of it. Veritas sells a router bit made specially for plane and saw handles but I would go the hand tool route. Its faster and looks better IMHO.I meant no offense with the firewood comment. I used a #26 as a scrub and a "sometimes" panel plane for three years when I was a teenager. The only problem was that I live in Virginia and it gets humid here. I had to joint the bottom of the plane two or three times a year just to keep it accurate. Eventually, it became firewwod and I restored a #5 that I still use today for heavy stock removal.Give the tote a try before you farm it out. You may be suprised with the results.Adam WelkerRed Car Construction and Fine Woodworking
October 17, 201213 yr Author Ok on the metal of this beast 0000 steel wool to get the rust off?Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 17, 201213 yr Maybe you can get Steve Newman to chime in and tell you how he cleans the ones he is restoring. He does an excellent job. He may even have it in one of his post where he has restored those planes recently.Charles Nicholls said:Ok on the metal of this beast 0000 steel wool to get the rust off?Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 17, 201213 yr Author Thanks John I'll see if I can find it.I did finally find a piece of Beech big enough for the knob. Still looking for the tote..John Moody said:Maybe you can get Steve Newman to chime in and tell you how he cleans the ones he is restoring. He does an excellent job. He may even have it in one of his post where he has restored those planes recently.Charles Nicholls said:John MoodySite AdministratorJohn Moody Woodworkshttp://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com
October 18, 201213 yr I got some feedback here Charles, but I am heading off to work now, I'll chime in later tonight. Been down and sick the past several days and have not been on here much, sorry I missed this one.John MorrisThe Patriot WoodworkerProud Supporter of Wounded Warrior Project and Homes For Our Troops
October 18, 201213 yr Author Oh, no problem John, it can wait til then for sure. Get well.John Morris said:I got some feedback here Charles, but I am heading off to work now, I'll chime in later tonight. Been down and sick the past several days and have not been on here much, sorry I missed this one.John MorrisThe Patriot WoodworkerProud Supporter of Wounded Warrior Project and Homes For Our Troops
October 19, 201213 yr This little guy is heading to Hawawii!!   Now as for the body of YOUR jack.    BLO and let it soak awhile.   Wipe it down, and do it again.    The knobs can be turned on the lathe, even a cheap one like mine.   Totes get a bandsaw to cut out, AFTER a forstner bit does the tight curves.    Tip: drill the bolt hole first, before you saw the tote out.   7/16" drill bit for the top of the bolt, IF it has a brass "nut" on the end.   If not, just a countersink will do.    the two handles from that #33 Stanley.    The knobs were held down with a long wood screw.   Knob gets loose over time, and the screw gets tightened down.  Results in the split knob syndrome.  I made new ones, a split one just drilling it out...OOOOPS!  That is why i always turn two.   As for shapig my totes.   I used a Bench grinder at first, then followed up with a belt sander.   Then a belt from a sander, with the tote held in a vise.  Moved the belt like shining a shoe.  You can even shape it to match the old one, or, match YOUR own hand.  Anything else??? Sign on pick up truck's back window..:' Save a Horse, ride a Cowboy'
October 19, 201213 yr Author Yea, unfortunately I don't have most of the stuff you just mentioned. I don't have a way to drill accurately or use a forstner bit accurately without it being attached to the lathe, because I have no drill press. I have a bench grinder but no belt sander. I may be able to cut the tote shape out if I go slow on the band saw but most of my cuts on that thing are like dog legs. and then i'm still stuck with how to drill it. Would you maybe be willing to make a tote if I provide the wood? I'm also not against paying for it since you'd be doing the work. Of course the knob I can do since I have the lathe. I already have one piece of beech for the knob but not for a tote.Thanks.Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 19, 201213 yr  IF you have a regular drill, just rig up a jig to make the holes.    Instead of the forstner bits, one can use a spade bit as well.  Even grind down the edges of an old 1/2" spade bit to 7/16" wide.     Draw a line along the outside of the tote, that matches the angle the bolt takes through the tote.   Drill from the top and bottom.   Take a small rat-tail file, and chuck it into your drill.  Run the file through the holes to line them up.  Instead of a drill press use a vise to hold the tote while you drill, using a small square as a guide.  Instead of a belt sander, use a couple rasps instead.   Buy a belt for a sander, cut and rip it into the sizes needed to smooth things out. Sign on pick up truck's back window..:' Save a Horse, ride a Cowboy'
October 19, 201213 yr Author Yea, unfortunately, this is going to be more trouble than I can handle. I have a bandsaw a hand drill and a lathe and a bench grinder as far as power tools and 2 6" & 2 12" clamps as far as usable hand tools and that's it. I really thought it would be easier to drill the tote out before I bought it, but if it has to be done at an angle which it does. I have no way to do that. I also thought that it would be easier to find beechwood than it is without having to drive across town to Lowes or whatever, which i can't do either. so if someone wants to give me $10 for the thing and pay to ship it to them, I will do that, and if not I will just set it in the shed until someone local wants it. Thanks for trying all but this is over my head. I can't even make the jig you speak of because all the wood I have is pen and bottle stopper blanks and I really have nothing to clamp it down to where I could drill it (even if I could drill straight free handed not to mention the fact that i really wouldn't know what to do to make the jig to start with Thanks for trying. Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
October 20, 201213 yr Author Yep figured that part out, I'm just trying to figure out how to get a tote for it. Arlin Eastman said:CharlesIf you use a brass wire brush and gently scrub the front of the plane with a little dish soap you will have who it is made by and what type of plane it is.  I can faintly see it with the dirt and oil on the face of it. It is called a transitional plane where it is part metal and part wood.
October 20, 201213 yr Rough out a blank mail it toSteve Newman313 north ElmBellefontaine,OH, 43311Mark where the bolt comes through, mainly the angle and location.  IF there is a "nub" where the bolt screws into the frame, need the size of it as well.    Send along the bolt itself, so I can tell how the top fits the tote.  I will drill and final shape it out.   Bolt will (should) fit when I'm done.    Send along a second padded envelope for the return. Give a week or two....Sign on pick up truck's back window..:' Save a Horse, ride a Cowboy'
October 20, 201213 yr Author Thanks Steve, will do as soon as I find beechwood big enough. I'm betting the best thing to do for location of hole etc. would be to send the old tote and bolt to you as well which isn't a problem.Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.netProud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRAhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks
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