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For some time I have wanted to finish a small piece (ornament) with 2 part Epoxy. I gives a great luster with depth. My first experiments were using 2 part 5 minute epoxy. It didn't do too bad, but I quickly found out that I'd better be set up to do the job BEFORE mixing the epoxy. The project and epoxy must also be at room temp. My lathe does not have RPM control that goes low enouogh and is located in my garage that can drop to 50 degrees. After a dry run I did get some promising results. However it did harden to enough to foil my attempt. I purchased some 30 minute epoxy from Amazon. There again I learned another property of epoxy. It does begin to harden enough in the first 7 minutes to prevent flow. Which makes touch up a bit tricky. Just when I though I messed up, I discovered that the epoxy does actually flow after 7 minutes.......but very slow. I allowed the piece to turn the full 30 minutes and it did even the the surface. The picture shows my set up and the final piece. As you can see, it is still in the drill, It is set up, but far from being hard. I had to let it set overnight in the drill to accomplish a tack free surface. I like it and will use it again. I'm sure I will learn more..................like use a small paddle instead of a brush, the epoxy will pull loose hairs from the brush. Most chucks will not close enough to take a small shaft, you can see my aux tiny chuck is chucked up. The speed control is my tiny clamp.
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TGIF: Three things that affect finish curing Tuesday, March 20, 2018
kmealy posted a topic in Finishing
Back from a couple of hectic weeks. I'm working on the presentation of a day long wood finishing seminar that I'm giving in April. As I do the outline, it occurred to me that most finishing things occur in threes. There are three things that affect how a finish dry or cures. 1. Temperature Some finishes, like waterborne, don't cure well below a critical point (mid 60s for example). The general rule of reactive (Tinkertoy) finishes is that chemical reactions double in speed for every 10 degrees Centigrade (18 Fahrenheit). So a varnish or oil finish will cure about twice as fast at 78 degrees as at 60 degrees. These finishes cure by absorbing oxygen and reacting with it to form polymer chains. For evaporative (spaghetti) finishes, lacquer and shellac, they cure by evaporation of their solvents. Higher temperature means faster evaporation. 2. Air movement Waterborne finishes cure in two stages - evaporation of the water (a thinner) then by the evaporation of the glycol ethers. Varnishes also cure in two stages, first evaporation of the thinner (mineral spirits), then reaction with oxygen. Oils and varnishes then cure by reaction with oxygen. Air movement speeds the evaporation of the mineral spirits, then makes oxygen available. Air movement speeds the evaporation of the solvents in shellac and lacquer. When I'm doing touch up work, I'll usually use a hair dryer to speed the drying of the lacquer (adds both heat and air movement). 3. Humidity High humidity will take longer for the water to evaporate from waterborne finishes. Humidity, I believe, will have minimal effect on varnish and oils. Since mineral spirits and water are not miscible (will not mix with each other) it should not change its evaporation rate. And the cure rate should be irrelevant. Shellac's solvent is alcohol, that is miscible in water (think cocktails or beer) high humidity will slow its evaporation rate Lacquer presents another problem. High humidity can cause lacquer to "blush" -- develop a white, cloudy appearance. Because lacquer dries so fast, high humidity does not allow the water to evaporate out before it cures. The solution to this is to use or add a slower-evaporating lacquer thinner to allow a longer dry time.- 9 replies
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