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Found 16 results

  1. Sorry for starting another post, system won't let me post pics on original post, yes it is a curved stair stringer (you guys are good) got it cut out today, and clamped back to the form until I'm ready to install it. A few pics of the bowed risers that will tie into it. Pulled my drawing up on the Autocad program about a month ago and seen I started designing this about 8 years ago, why is my wife in such a hurry to get it done, it all takes time. More pics to follow, may even try to do time lapse video of the installation.b
  2. Put these stairs in about 2 months ago, the painter finally got them stained and varnished, we put the ballusters in this week. Did the stairs and all the balcony rail, foundation was dug 2 years ago, will be about 6 more months before the basement gets drywalled, and then we can put the 2 basement stairs in. The basket ball court is above the 6 car garage!
  3. these stairs were covered w/ red shag carpet, loose (no shims and 8d finish nails) and the riser heights were random... the treads were re-positioned, risers adjusted to fit and center stringers added... Both sets of stairs are kicked/racked ¾" the opposite way of each other... The 1st risers of each set were 7/8" low and the top 2 risers are 7/8" tall.... the fix was to change the elevation of the stairs... pulled everything out and reinstalled them to required height... I'm sure the original installer didn't allow for the finish floor elevation... This project received a new front door and a tiled landing.... pressure sealed (same process as PT'ing wood) the threads and handrail w/ Rexthane, plus 2 coats and started the installs... all of the newels, baullisters and railing were shop produced... this work got me a lot more around the neighborhood...
  4. Look at the link below please as I am going to see this lathe today. It doesn't look too bad and it's about what I have been looking for. I am thinking with the oil ports it most likely has sleeve bearings. Do you think I can still get bearings for it? If can get bearings for the lathe it might be worth getting. One big problem I could have is the lathe is in a basement and with neuropathy, in my feet and legs, it might be too much. Comments wanted and advice is welcome. https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/d/antique-lathe-and-older-table/6706426342.html
  5. Got the newels set, and curved rail hung yesterday, 9 peices 1/4" thick give or take. I put the finger groove on 2 sides of 1" stock and resawed it to 3/8" and ran all 9 peices through the sander so the finished width is 2 1/4", and clamped it to the curved form, (see previous how it's made topics) After letting it dry for a few days I used a paint scraper and belt sander to clean up the top and bottom, then with router put a 1/2" radius on the top. Leaving both newels loose I was able to lay the rail right on the steps and tweak the cuts so they fit nice and tight to the newels. Drilled a 1" hole in the bottom of the rail, and 3/8" hole in the ends. Attached the half newel to the wall, and rail, and bottom newel went in next. 2 washers and a nut secure the rail to the posts. 1" face grain plugs fill the holes no visible fasteners seen on the top of the rail. The bottoms of newel have wraps which hide the screws, still have to put a trim peice on the top of the wraps. The only visible fasteners on this stair are pin nails that are on the newel wrap miters, and trim on the newels, and cove under the tread nosing. I achieved the flair effect on the bottom of the stairs by changing the run. 10" on the right side, 7 1/2" on the left side, (7.47") to be exact. The upper 7 treads have a 9" run. Code says " 12 inches from the narrow side of the stairs the run must not be less than 9", I'm at 9.0625" . Have to seal the curved rail, and wait for the guys to come and put the final coat of finish on these, I don't have the patience for that part of the project, and will post pictures when it's all done and the metal balusters are in. Thanks for reading my series.
  6. Installation of the new stairs. Wanted to do a time lapse video of this,but, the painter I hired to apply the finish clear coat said he would be here this week, so I installed the stairs last week,and didn't worry about finding someone with a camcorder that would do time lapse, he calls me up and says the house he is working at now added a bunch of other stuff they want done, so it will be about a month before he gets here, oh well just me and the wife live here and shoes are not allowed in our house so no big deal. For those who have been keeping up with my project, here is some before, after, and doing the project, more pics to follow
  7. 1 peice hickory milled down to 1/4" , 2 peices Baltic birch plywood with hickory strips bandaided to the bottom, using a paint roller to spread the glue, lots of clamps, any idea what I'm making??
  8. Tonights question is about capping, or installing new stair treads & risers. This project will be tackled when I complete the upstairs remodel, but it seems that I should be planning ahead. It appears that either way I go (capping or new treads) will be fairly straightforward. My question is the last step, which is the floor level for the upstairs. None of the instructions or videos I have watched address this last (top) step. I want it to match the appearance of the rest of the steps. I also want it to be flush with the flooring I will be using upstairs. So what is the technique? I plan to install laminate flooring upstairs. If I use the "retro-tread" sold by Lowes (http://www.stair-treads.com/instructions-how-to/retro-tread-installation-instructions.html) - do I just rip the nose off one piece and nail & glue it to the flooring upstairs? I hope my question is clear. Am I over thinking this? Cal
  9. Will be taking a break from things. Depending on what the Knee Doc says Thursday morning, will know what he intends to do. Stairs are getting a bit much to handle. Unable to mow the grass....can't push off with the knee. Might clean a few toys...er...TOOLS up, and post a few things on FeeBay. Don't want to start a project right now, until I know more. I might just hang out around here, might have a few more "Blasts from the Past" to post up.... RonDud......There is a small town called Brandt, OH. Traffic light at US 40 and StRt201, turn west, go about 1 block. There is a place you and Moody will love. Building is an old General Store, FILLED with stuff, so filled, they need tables set outside. And, those tables are full. Besides, Big Mike's Stop&Go has the lowest gas prices in the area. IF you ever managed to evade the Border Patrol long enough to enter OHIO.....might want to check the place out.
  10. The Patriot Woodworker has some oddity's for sure, and while perusing the statistics of our community, I found one interesting statistic. For Patriot Woodworker Mike Williams, please do not be offended by my statement Mike, because your Newel Post is a great piece of work, in fact the entire stair case you restored/repaired is wonderful. But something as common as a Newel Post Cap, it sure is amazing that among all the work in the community, the most viewed image by far was and is, and has been for some time, his "Newel Post Cap"! Now these are real guest and member views, not spiders or robots, our native stats here in our community do not count spiders and robots. Come on really! A newel post cap! Go figure! Congratulations Dragon!
  11. DRAGON1

    upper risers

    From the album: Another chestnut stairway and a stickler settee

    Another staircase in chestnut. movers destroyed the woodwork including putting hole in ceiling. stain is Jacobean with Watco danish oil non gloss over it.4 days of work. Why do I always get the hard jobs? And boss refused to move the one of a kind stickler settee from the foyer.
  12. DRAGON1

    newel post New Cap

    From the album: Another chestnut stairway and a stickler settee

    new newel post. old one destroyed.
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