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Found 9 results

  1. Perusing our community lately I have noticed the quality content that is permeating our ranks lately, well it always has, but the off topic noise has died down considerably and the real topics are allowed to shine through now. And I love it! The content is more targeted, the posts are staying pretty close to the original topics, and I can actually view a topic, and not have to scroll through 5 pages of one liner commentary that is off topic, and irrelevant to the original topic. I really like that. I just wanted to say thanks to all for keeping it straight, posting in the correct forums for your topics, keeping it relevant, and keeping it tame and professional, we are truly stepping into another level of woodworking and content here on The Patriot Woodworker, and you all are to be congratulated and appreciated. So thank you folks, thank you greatly. And, don't forget to invite your friends to our community, we always love new members. Cheers
  2. Dear folks, sometimes the topics get a little off topic, actually they go way off topic and they at times drag on for a few pages with nothing relevant to the original topic, and often the replies are one liner jokes that are just bantering back n forth that really would be better off in the free for all. That being said, we don't want make any rules for that, because part of the attraction of our community is that there really are few general rules, yet along with that philosophy comes a responsibility to use it wisely and not abuse what we have here. If we could just cut down a tad on the off topic posts I think it would be a good thing. I know myself, when I view a topic, I sometimes get a little frustrated that I have to filter through many posts before I can read something related to the original topic, and it's not just one topic that starts to bug me, it's when I want to read all the topics for the day in a forum that it becomes cumbersome to roll through the pages full of posts that are not at all related to the original post. This is your community folks, you ultimately steer the way we roll around here, by your suggestions in how to improve our home here. So what say you all? Would you like to have more targeted topic threads? I think out of respect for the original poster, we should keep it dialed in to their project they took the time to share with us and or ask questions about this or that. Thanks for your ear and welcoming all feedback on this. Again, we will make no rule about it, but hopefully we can keep it at the top of our head as we reply to a topic. I am just as guilty as the next guy at times, I'll remember to keep my own off topic posts down to a minimum as well.
  3. Another retirement gift for one of our Land Surveyors. Boy they are retiring quickly, much of the old guard had been leaving us, and more to come. The letters are routed with a template I made, then I simply paint the entire surface with several coats with rattle can, then let dry, and plane to expose the nice crisp lettering. This post is Cherry, with Ebony tapered plugs as the period punctuation. Just came off the planer, now final sanding and final touches. The base is clamped and glued too. So the question begs, who's making my retirement post!
  4. I had posted photos of old tools at the boat shop in old tools in the past. I thought you might like to look at the old building from within. Photo #1 & 2 show the stone wall at the front of the building going up to street level. Also notice the beams on the ceiling above. 3 and 4 show what was the paint room. The paint on the floor is estimated to be 2" thick. Also see the paint on the timber in the wall where the paint bucket was kept. The paint on the floor is about 6" deep there. Painters were paid 16 cents a boat so there was an incentive to paint fast with little concern about cleaning up. #5 is a plane and old wooden clamp placed in a partially built model of a boat. 6 + 7 pictures the overhead beams and wide floor boards and the post at the staircase going to the main floor. The staircase is very steep and narrow. #8,9,and 10 again showing the construction beams , this time in the ceiling above the main floor. I still haven't taken photos in the upper floor. also notice the accumulation of finish on the floors.
  5. John Morris

    Boring Out Rear Rungs

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    My old Delta Rockwell did a pretty good job with my 5/8" Forstner style bit.
  6. The Patriot Woodworker has some oddity's for sure, and while perusing the statistics of our community, I found one interesting statistic. For Patriot Woodworker Mike Williams, please do not be offended by my statement Mike, because your Newel Post is a great piece of work, in fact the entire stair case you restored/repaired is wonderful. But something as common as a Newel Post Cap, it sure is amazing that among all the work in the community, the most viewed image by far was and is, and has been for some time, his "Newel Post Cap"! Now these are real guest and member views, not spiders or robots, our native stats here in our community do not count spiders and robots. Come on really! A newel post cap! Go figure! Congratulations Dragon!
  7. The first topic on this project can be found at First Topic. When ever a land surveyor retires from my place of work, I am called on to make a "Witness Post" with a benchmark embedded into the post. Then at the retirement party he'll be sent off with this memory of his time served in our Land Surveying Division of our transportation department. This retirement post was made for our big guy, the country surveyor, after 30 plus years of service he decided to call it, and go mountain climbing. Below is the post after glue up, I glued together two 8/4 slabs of cherry, that were also 4" wide, so I came out with a true 4x4 post. It stands about 34 inches tall. I used TB II Dark Wood Glue. After I cleaned up the glue with a chisel, I ran it through the joiner to completely square it up. Then I moved on to the making of the base that the post would stand on. the arrows indicate the glue edges after I cross cut the small 8/4 slab, I'll end up with two pieces 8" x 16" long, and when glued up will form a square base at 16" x 16". If you need to glue up two halves like this, and if you want a beautiful book matched end grain at a highly visible edge, just cross cut it, then fold the two halves so the arrows meet in the middle, this will leave a wonderfully book matched end grain where your cross cut was made. As you can see I had a lot of twist going on with this 8/4 cherry, so I had to plane it flat. There we go! Two surfaces perfectly square to each-other. Though the right side and the bottom are square to each other, you can see the top has much to be desired, so since I have two reference points that are good, I can surface plane the top flat now. A full 8/4 twisted piece of cherry on the left, and a nicely joined and surfaced board on the right, as you can see we lost quite a bit of thickness, but as this is the base for the post, I did not mind having the base a bit thinner to give the over all appearance of the project some depth with differing thickness in relation to the thickness of the post. I broke out my Veritas Low Angle Jack to join the glue edges for the base. Once joined they were ready for glue up. I'll always hand join two boards before glue up, I just feel better about it, rather then going straight to glue up after joining on my Grizz 6", I'll hand join the edges, then glue up. To me, I feel it's a cleaner joint, virtually invisible, as a matter of fact when done correctly, it is invisible. Base is glued up, I never wipe the glue off, unless we are working on a cabinet where dripping glue can be disastrous, but when working with slabs or surface joints where scraping the glue is easily done, I'll just let it run and drip and dry. I feel it retains the strength of the joint this way, instead of wiping it off with a damp rag, the water could get into the joint and weaken it. Since I have made so many of these "Retirement Posts", I finally made a jig one year. I used to have to put together the black plastic lettering template each time I built one of these. But I finally got wise and made a permanent template that can be used over and over. The template below is made from Poplar, 1/2" thick. I set the depth of the bit by inverting the router on the bench, then sitting the template on top of the router, and setting by eye the depth of the cut. I like to eye ball in about a 3/8" cut with a 3/8" radius cove cutting bit. The template is clamped in place on the 4x4 post, I'll route out the top letters first, then move the clamps up and route out the bottom letters last. And now we have a lettered post with "RIV CO SUR". That stands for "Riverside County Surveyor" Next I'll spray about three coats of white paint on the entire surface of the post making sure to get the letters really good. The next step after the paint has thoroughly dried, I'll run it through the thickness planer, planing off a micro touch of surface wood, thus leaving behind some nice clean and white letters. I skipped a photo of the post after planing, but you'll see the white letters left behind after the surface planer in the next few images. I was just going to leave it as is, but there seemed to be something missing between the RIV and CO, and the CO and SUR. The letters just seemed to run into each other. So I decided for the first time since I have been making these to inlay some Macassar Ebony dots to symbolize "periods", and a break between the letters. I used a 3/8" tapered plug cutter for this job. You can see I have already hit this piece of Macassar in the past for plugs, when I made my last rocker I used this Macassar for the plugs. Then with a 3/8" forstner, I cut the holes for the tapered plugs. With a few little dabs of glue in the holes, I rammed the tapered plugs in, and planed them smooth with my Veritas Low Angle Block plane. Perfect fit, you cannot beat the tapered plugs, they go in tight, never a gap. Nice and clean. The post resting atop the base. One thing I think I would have changed, and will in the future, I'll use a longer post, so the letters at the bottom will be about 3" from the base, aesthetically I think it would look better. Below is a 3 1/2" bronze benchmark disk, typically used to mark a township, section corner, or an elevated vertical benchmark of great significance to a surveyor. What our guys did is ordered the disk and had our County Surveyors name along with his PLS number,or Land Surveyors Number and entry and exit dates of employment engraved on the mark. You can see the splayed shaft, in a field environment, these benchmarks are typically set in concrete, so when you set this mark in concrete, it is impossible for it to work its way out. Since my base is only 1 1/2" thick, and the shaft is about 3" long, well I had to go to work on it to shorten it up. The soft bronze was a bear to get through with my sweat operated hack saw. The soft metal just clogged up the teeth. But finally I made it through. I drilled out a 1" hole to accommodate the 3/4" shaft. I over sized the hole because I wanted enough two part epoxy to surround the shaft and provide some holding power. Before I set the mark into the hole filled with two part epoxy, I drilled out three holes through the shaft, so the epoxy would flow into the holes, and provide some anchor power. Before the mark was set, I sanded the post to 800, providing a nicely burnished shiny surface, then I applied two coats of BLO. After I set the mark, the final step was to rub out the entire post with Liberon Bison Wax using a 0000 steel wool, I love this wax, it is a necessary last step in my woodworking, it provides an overall even sheen, and it also hides the aroma of the BLO, and it just provides one more deep and rich step to form a wonderful patina. Sorry for the side way image, I could not get it to load upright! Hmmm, good thing we are moving our community eh! You can view the book matched end grain as I noted earlier on when gluing up the base. Well thanks folks for viewing this project, I was happy and honored to build this for our big guy's retirement. I love building these for the guys at work, I believe this is the 8th one I have done, and the third country surveyor I have built one for. It has become a tradition for our retirees, they love them, and frankly they expect them now! For a little history about the post, these posts are called in our industry a "Witness Post". It is a post that tells a surveyor there is a very special mark nearby, typically for vertical control, a big corner such as a township corner, or it could even be a combination of a few things, a corner, a vertical benchmark, with horizontal coordinates or values applied to it using the Blue Book standards as set forth by the National Geodetic Survey. If we find a "Witness Post" in the field, you can be sure their is an important monument nearby, usually within two feet of the post, and it will be laying in front of the post on the lettered side. Have fun!
  8. Thinking of changing my name......Shade Tree Carpentry,INC. Had a flimsy tent like Gazebo out back. Heavy rains and wind beat it apart. Tore it down today, but, not before some wood framing took place Had some 4x4s by 78" long. Had some 2x4s I needed to cut as rafters. Had some metal clips to help fasten the parts together, just needed something to hold things up... Stand them up, so I could add a short 4x4 king pin to the top of one rafter. Fun was about to begin This was the easy one. Note to self: next time I buy a box of screws, note what style tip it uses. Yep, I got square drive junk. I even wore out a tip today. Anyway, got all four posts and rafters cut and screwed together. Maybe a 4-12 pitch. Now came the time to put a second post and rafter onto the king pin Ah..yeah. One end was trying to stay on top of a garbage can, but not too hard. Hopped off twice. Trying to screw the next rafter to the king pin. Break time. tear the Gazebo down, clear the work area. Get a ladder set up and ready. Boss shows up ( bad move) and I put her to work. We stand the first assemly up, she's holding it while I try to attach #3 rafter to the top. #@#@#@@##! Finally got it in place. Then tried the #4.....it flopped over trying to start the first screw. Went and got a metal "Mending Plate" Added that to the mix. Made things much better. Starting to look like something? Almost. Had to go to Lowes and get seven more clips. Three to do the other rafters, and four to tie this monster to the house. Plumbed a couple posts, adjusted by sledge hammer, of course. Needed some rods added to attach the screens to. LARGE drill bit, chucked into a 1/2" drill......about broke my wrist, until I learned how to hold the dang thing enough it wouldn't spin on the bit. Four rods 8 holes, one sore wrist. My 6" circular saw by Skil, and that wrist molesting 1/2" drill. Got the topper for the Gazebo back on the frame, it was a might too small for the frame. Only cover we have, use it anyway. And installed the screens. Not the prettiest on the block, but it will do. It will NOT budge in most storms, either. Might just do...
  9. I'll start with a couple images of the beginnings of something I am cooking up in the old shop this past weekend, guess away!!!! I'll give ya a hint, bench mark, land surveyor, that's all ya get! For now! That should do for now, can ya guess?
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