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I've finally decided to make a router table, and incorporate a lift (probably Jessem Rout-R or Mast-R). Most of the prefab router tables I see have the router centered on the table. This would seem too waste a lot of the surface area behind the router bit. What bit clearance do you have on your table, and would moving it back a bit improve the use?
I have posted this else where, but for the benefit of those who haven't seen it and are wondering if a router lift can be fitted to a cast iron top, this is how I did it awhile back. I had bought a generic sliding router table awhile back It was a heavy,sturdy table very well constructed. It had a couple of draw backs though. The table tilted up towards the operator, not sure what benefit that was. and the router was extremely difficult to mount under the table. I ended up drilling and counter boring thru holes to mount the motor. Took 2 attempts to get the motor centered in the hole and then it was still off center a 1/16"+. Another problem was the top was 1" thick where the motor mounted so it cut down on the depth of the bit height travel significantly. I decided to install a router lift with a aluminum plate instead. I was fortunate enough to obtain a like new Rockler lift for a Bosch 1617 router which I had mounted on this table. After the table was removed from the stand,I marked around the router plate on the lift and drilled holes through the top, at the corners. Then I clamped an angle iron straight edge to the top to guide the cutting wheel. I set the guide 1/16' inside the cutout finish size so I could grind it to finish opening. Then I used the dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the hole . It took 4 setups to get all sides.. Then I took a grinding wheel on the dremel and ground the hole to size.. After the plate fit the hole I installed some tabs I made to level the plate. I just let the plate "float " and I can lift it out for any reason at any time. I like the muscle chuck so installed that on the motor for quick changing bits with out wrenches. Herb