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Found 16 results

  1. I have a problem with interval. If I’m applying 12 somethings to a 48” board, I goof up the intervals every time. Part of the problem is figuring out the interval spacings, and part is physically laying out the intervals by progressively adding one increment to each tick mark. I am ALWAYS off at the end. So much for talent. I now use a variation of the “story stick” approach, but via calculation, and then a much simpler layout method. I use a spreadsheet to figure out the interval spacing (e.g. 4.13” between dots). I then figure out where the first location/mark will be, and then create a table of locations, each incrementing by the interval (4.13). The computer keeps the numbers in complete accuracy, in decimal form so I don’t have to calc 1/32’s etc. Once I have the table complete of the locations of each tick mark, I convert all the numbers to metric because using mm (and a metric tape) is very accurate and easy to mark. You can read a metric tape to 1/2 mm. I can then either just print the table of mm locations, or copy them from the screen. Although it’s made a bit of process out of what should be (for competent people!) a snap, it saves me time in the end by eliminating measurement errors. And I don’t snap pencils in half. Much.
  2. Stick486

    Center Finding.

    center finding: ("Thales Theorem") take your ruler and place zero inches on one edge.... move the ruler diagonally across the piece till you read a number at the other edge easily divisible by two... divide... that number is is the center... find it on the ruler and make your mark... to find that IRL measure of center... measure from the edge to the mark w/ the ruler perpendicular to the edge... no measure... say the stock is 3/4" thick/wide... put a 3/4" fostner bit in the DP.. slide the fence up to the bit and lock it down... presto... center of stock all done... finding spacing... Do your diagonal measure only instead of dividing by 2 divide by the number of pieces you want... example.. you want 5 pieces from stock 12±'' wide... diagonal measure 15'' and divide by 5.. quotient is 3... every 3'' make your mark.. (3, 6, 9, 12).. center finding ruler... lay the ruler on the piece and shift left or right till the measures are the same to both edges... mark the zero...
  3. John Morris

    Lay Out Rung Holes

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    This is my story stick for my layouts. I used the line I drew at the lathe, then intersected that line with the lines on my story stick to layout the rung holes.
  4. So just to get a little chatter going and I haven't ask one of these in a while, I thought today would be a good time. When you are doing or planning a woodworking project, what is your favorite part of the project? 1. Drawing a scale drawing 2. Building a prototype 3. Dimensioning the material 4. Layout 5. Joinery 6. Assembly 7. Sanding 8. Staining or finishing 9. Just seeing the end results!
  5. The April/May issue of Woodcraft Magazine has a great article called "Joinery Class". This particular entry is about Half Blind Dovetails. Within the article is a link to a video demonstrating an easy way to layout any dovetails. The best part is that you only have to make TWO measurements! Check out this video-
  6. Well my shop ReDo is complete with the exception of hooking up the DC to the table saw, jointer and router table. I had planed to do that last night and picked up the PVC pipe but when I got home I realized I didn't have any PVC glue. Plenty of cleaner, but no glue so I decided to do a few other things and finish that tonight. I flipped the table saw around from where it once was giving me more open area behind the saw and a place that when we bring wood into the shop we are at either the chop saw or table saw to start. The Band saw stayed close to where it was but is now on wheels and I can push it back against the wall and pull it out to make cuts. By the Band Saw is one of my Display cabinets with some of the wooden planes and inside are some of my old wrenches. My jointer now sits at the end of my table saw giving me room to run longer boards across it and to use it without being in the way of someone at the drum sander. I just realized I didn't take a shot of the router table, but it now sits right across from the jointer and again gives plenty of infeed and outfeed room. My Planer is now in the middle of the room and connected to is own DC. This way I don't have any DC pipe work on the floor and it keeps the center of the room open from pipe hanging down from the ceiling. I moved my lathe out of the corner to give me better access to it and the clamps so they wouldn't fall on my when I stumbled into the tight corner. This also moved my sharpening station up closer to the lathe. . I moved my sanding station to the very back and against one of the pull up doors. We haven't open those doors in years so I might as well make use of the space in front of them. The drum sander has been moved to the back of the shop in an area where the planer occupied. I have done away with the legs that came with it since they stuck out and took up lots of room. Right now it is sitting on an antique Cherry Gate leg table. Nice Planer stand right? As soon as i can I am building a cabinet to put under it with storage for the rolls of different grit paper to use on the drum sander. I still have a few more areas to organize a little better. I have lots of plastic bins now to put things in and they are clear so I can see what is in them. Now I am ready to get started working in the new area and see if it works as good as it looked on paper.
  7. Last year was a great year working in the shop but it sure pointed out many short falls in the layout. But we were so busy and I just didn't have the strength after the surgery to change things. Since Christmas rush is over we are taking a break and redoing the shop. A better flow from bring the wood into the shop to working through the process and back out with the finished project. Right now on paper it looks great, I'll let you know how it goes when we put it all back together. This weekend I got everything taken apart and started the process of moving things several times. I would have like to taken tools outside and then brought them in as they were ready to be placed but it has rained here everyday. So we are working around things and just moving as we can. Right now the Delta Table saw is upside down and I thought I was going to replace the base with an original base but it doesn't fit the model so we are back to the make shift wooden base. The top is off the saw and everything is getting a good cleaning and checking then all realigned. About the time I really got all of this taken apart I started to wonder if this was really a good idea. Oh well it is started so now I have to finish it. I sure hope the after pictures look better than this mess right now.
  8. This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22†long and 2†square. Locate the center of the length (11â€) and carry a line around the blank. The ellipses are 11†long and made of three pieces of 1/8†thick material. Layout a mark 5 ½†on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank. To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8†thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank. NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11†layout lines Checking the diagonals for centered layout Next, layout a second line around the blank. This is done on each end. The second line defines the "inside" of the diagonal slot area. Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut. Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed. Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends “short†of the ellipse layout line. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse. Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain matching ellipse ends. This drawing is not to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins. Part 3 will explain cutting the slot for the inserts.
  9. lew

    Second Insert Layout

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Second Insert Layout
  10. lew

    Second Insert Layout

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Second Insert Layout
  11. lew

    Measuring Jig

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Measuring Jig
  12. lew

    Locating Jig Opposite

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Locating Jig Opposite
  13. lew

    Locating Jig End

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Locating Jig End
  14. lew

    Layout For Insert

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Layout For Insert
  15. lew

    All Lay Out Lines

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    All Lay Out Lines
  16. First I must tell you that my shop is half of a garage and that all tools, benches have to be portable. I can't do large projects and really don't care to, so all is well with what I have. Over the years my space has changed to accommodate new things and to make the most used items handy. First, there are never enough sharp pencils and they always hide somewhere. Next was the tools I use to do small jobs and repairs. Then there are the measuring rules and tapes I know I usually can't find. I try to keep most things within reach and not have to go on a search mission. As I looked over my ever evolving workbench, design/layout table and wondered what others do. So I am asking you to post some pictures to show what you do for your bench/layout/design area. Here is mine

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