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Found 19 results

  1. Those YouTube videos from Infinity and purveyors of templates make it look so easy. We'll, that's just B.S. Of course, they have properly deminsioned stock and a completely outfitted and correct size of router. Not to mention, their proprietary router inlay kit on hand. For the inlay I'm doing on Phyl's mesquite coffee table, only two woods, walnut and maple, are used. Both need to be at 1/8th thick. Or, so I thought. In my stash, I found some walnut I'd reasawn to close to 1/8. Not so lucky with the maple. But, I managed to get it down to close with the bandsaw. Here's where my lack of foresight once more bites me in the a$$. I took great pains to plane the stock to precisely 1/8". I could have simply set the router's depth to the thickness the stock off the bandsaw. Dumb! With the stock prepared, it was time to set up the router. I had originally planned to use the Bosch Colt because of it's small size. After a couple of fruitless hours of fiddling, I found there ain't no way Bosch's base plate will accept the Infinty inlay kit. There are several base plate adapters and none work. I tried them all. So, it was time to break out one of the PC 690s. The Infinity kit requires some pretty fine router adjustments which required removing the base plate on the 690, inserting their centering pin in the router chuck, then reinstalling the base plate with the inlay kit bushing set attached. Thereby insuring the precise alignment required. I was surprised at how much play there was in the base plate screw placement. With all the above accomplished, I'm pretty sure I'm ready to start cutting. Well, that's after theTarter Woodworking templates are all in place and secured. All in all, getting to this point consumed most of yesterday. Nap included of course. It's a new day and new adventures await. To be continued...
  2. I was asked to help with making an accent piece of some-kind for an interior decoration. My wife went to an antique store and purchased a unique item, not knowing what it was. Later, I discovered that it was a wheel wright’s traveler. I made the wooden plaque and mounted the traveler. The wood plaque is ¾” x 12” x 16” flat sawn white oak inlayed with 1/42” x 1/8” black veneer. General Finishes High Performance satin was used for the finish. Guess how many boards were glued to make the 12” wide plaque? Clue: more than one. Thanks for looking. Danl
  3. I designed a mission style bedroom set and I want to have inlay mother-of-pearl (MOP) to make the pieces appear to be a set. This is my 1st project to have used inlay. I do not have a Shaper Origin or a CNC, so I resorted to a hybrid hand and machine method of implementation. I ended with six test beds. The following are pictures and explanations for the productions Mission style/My style nightstand door panel inlay effort. Dimensions listed are usually nominal. I had to resort to actual measurements to help identify the tools and technic to use. There are two QSWO panels, approx. ½” x 6-1/2” x 13-3/4”. The MOP pieces are 6 mm dia. x 2 mm thick. The black veneer is 1/42” thick. Line fabrication: I needed black lines 1/16” thick x 1/16” wide. I found “black” veneer sheets which were 1/42” thick. I sandwiched and pressed three sheets using Unibond One for the adhesion. Latter I cut the veneer lines to the needed lengths and allowing excess for the widths (~ 3/32”-1/8” wide). Dot fabrication: After much trial-n-error, I found using a Veritas 3/8” dia. hole cutter would make a 0.390 dia. black veneer dot. The dots are made by gluing newspaper to a poplar board with wood glue and gluing the black veneer to the other side of the newspaper. After the glue has dried, the dots cut with a plug cutter in a router set to the lowest speed. Router depth was set to veneer thickness + 1/256”. The dots can be removed from the board, at the paper interface, using a bench chisel. Jig tooling I made a dot location template from ½” thick MDF. I drilled ten holes with a ½” forstner bit using a drill press. Test bed #6 Installations 1st: Draw center lines onto the panel. Center the dot location jig onto the QSWO panel and clamp. Index three wooden blocks, with double sided tape, onto the panel. The blocks cannot be thicker than the MDF jig. The blocks will be used in subsequent operations to help assure the template is placed in the original location. 2nd: Using a 1/8” dia. router bit, plunge down 1/8” for each dot location. It will become more obvious in subsequent operations why this operation is necessary. Remove the template after plunge routing. 3rd: Draw reference lines between holes. Take extra caution to assure the lines are centered. Draw the lines past the hole locations. 4th: Locate a straight edge ¼” from the reference centerline. I use a ¼” x ¼” brass gauge. It is important that the straight edge is parallel along the full length of the reference line. Clamp the straight edge to the panel and workbench. 5th: Using 1/16” dia. router bit, rout a 1/16” deep groove between two 1/8” holes. The holes were made larger and deeper than 1/16” so that there would be clearance when the bit first enters the wood. Rout the groove in two passes to assure the bit does not break. 6th: Remove the straight edge and repeat operation #5 for two more lines. The three original lines selected cannot be intersecting lines. Select one cross hatch line and the two short lines. 7th: Using clear CA glue, adhere the veneer lines into the three grooves. Sprites with accelerator. Let set for full cure. 8th: Pare the lines near flush to the panel surface using a bench chisel. Orientate the chisel with the bevel edge down. 9th: Repeat operations 4 through 8 for the remaining crosshatch line. 10th: Repeat operations 4 through 8 for the remaining long line. When paring is complete, use a RO, set at a low speed, and sand with P100 and P150 grit paper. Now sit back, take a breath, and admire. The hardest operations are still to come. 11th: Reapply and clamp the template to the panel and bench. Using a 10 mm dia. bit, make a spot face for the dots. Depth is very critical. I set my depth to veneer thickness + 1/256”. You may want to use a set-up piece before using the production panel. 12th: Because the 10 mm bit does not make a flat bottom spot face, using a ¼” down spiral router bit, make an inner spot face with depth set to veneer thickness + 2/256”. If there is still a center protrusion, use a 1/8” dia. router bit and plug veneer thickness + 3/256”. The 1/8” dia. plunging may not be required in all 10 locations. 13th: Remove the dot location template and look for any anomalies. No repair procedure has been determined, so you better have done it correct. 14th: Using clear CA glue, locate the ten dots into the spot face locations. I used an Xacto knife blade to hold the dot and the blunt in the handle to help press the dot down. Do not use an over amount of glue. Try to keep the glue off the dot top surface. Blot any glue squeeze out with a paper towel. 15th: After the glue has cured, hand sand the panel with a soft block and P220 grit paper. Note any high dot locations. Be aware that the dot veneer is only 1/42” thick. Remove all surface CA glue from the panel and on the dots by sanding. 16th: Relocate the dot location template onto the panel and clamp. Using a ¼” dia. down spiral router bit, plug rout holes MOP + 1/256” deep. You may want to use a set-up piece before using the production panel. Having the MOP proud of the black dot is desired because you want to sand the MOP surface flush in subsequent operations, but keep in mind that the black dot is only 1/42” thick. Make a mental note of where the dot height is compared to the panel surface. If the dot is sub flush, then the MOP will be too proud. If the dot is proud, then you risk sanding too much of it. 17th: Remove the template and trial fit the MOP pieces into the panel. You will have a loose fit. Using black CA glue, locate the ten MOP pieces into the ¼” dia. spot faces. I use a tweezer to hold the MOP and the blunt end of the Xacto knife to help press the MOP down. Do not use an over amount of glue. Try to keep the glue off the black dot. Blot any glue squeeze out with a paper towel. 18th: After the black CA glue has cured, sand the panel surface with P220 grit sandpaper to try to flush the MOP pieces, remove the factory scratches from the MOP, and to remove cured glue from the black dots. Take caution not to over sand the black dots. Finishing 1. Remove sawdust with a cloth or blue shop towel soaked with mineral spirits (MS). Allow MS to evaporate. 2. Using a Q-tip, paint MOP with shellac sealer. 3. Apply Transtint medium brown dye, mixed with denatured alcohol (DA,) to panel and allow to dry. 4. Using a Q-tip and DA, remove dye from MOP before drying is complete. 5. Spray seal coat to entire panel. Allow to cure. 6. Scuff sand with P 320 or P400. Remove dust. 7. Reapply seal coat to MOP with Q-tip. 8. Apply General Finishes Antique Walnut gel stain to panel and allow to cure. Using Q-tip and DA, remove gel stain and seal coat from MOP before curing is complete. 9. Apply seal coat. Using Q-tip and DA, remove seal coat from MOP before curing is complete. 10. Perform operations #1,3, 6, and 8 to back surface of panel. 11. Scuff sand with P420 grit sandpaper, if required. Thanks for looking and reading along. Danl Two production panels with dye stain and test bed#6 Production panels with walnut gel stain applied. Waiting to have seal coat applied.
  4. lew

    gavel display board inlay

    From the album: Old Jail Gavel

    Carpenters mark from original beam inlayed into display board
  5. We all enjoyed getting away last week. Nothing like eating your way up and down the boardwalk Our Patriot Turners- @RustyFN asked some questions about rough turned bowls- He received lots of input from our members. Check out his post and see if you can add to the conversation Rusty also shared a completed Bradford Pear bowl he made. It sure is a beauty- He tells us a little about the turning in his post What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links to more information and registration- Lyle Jamieson For The Newbies- Rusty's question concerning rough turning wood bowls ties into these videos on drying turning blanks- Not sure if everyone can see this video on Instagram. This is a screen grab from John Jordan and the link- https://www.instagram.com/p/CcWy7uYLwqp/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY Need a portable way to carry your lathe tools? Mike Peace may have just what you need Spring is busting out all over- so they tell me- Alan Stratton is making flowers that won't freeze! Couple of smaller projects picked up from the AAW- Salt and Pepper mills- and a little scoop- Expand Your Horizons- Cindy Drozda is doing more online, live presentations. You can find her on the web at https://www.facebook.com/cindy.drozda.3/ https://www.youtube.com/user/cindydrozda https://twitter.com/CindyDrozda Her latest YouTube video Vacuum chucks are one of the easiest way to reverse chuck a bowl to finish off the bottom. Here Jim Rodgers explains Lyle Jamieson turns a beautiful crotch hollow vessel Carl Jacobson has a super easy way to do beautiful inlays- Mike Waldt turns a beech goblet- New Turning Items- Ron Brown has a new stabilizer for those who do hollowing- Some sale prices on our most generous sponsor's products ( @Jim from Easy Wood Tools) from Craft Supplies USA- https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/Sales/8/Easy-Wood-Tools?utm_source=csusa&utm_medium=email&utm_content=ewt&utm_campaign=22-04-ewt-1 They also have a new, small lathe available- https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/216/7390/artisan-1420-EVS-Mini-Lathe?utm_source=csusa&utm_medium=email&utm_content=1420&utm_campaign=22-04-1420 Ruth Niles has a special deal on an assortment of stoppers designed for liquor bottles Click on the above image for the link to her store. Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last two weeks- Safe turning
  6. A slow week here in our turner's forum. Our Patriot Turners- What’s Coming Up- Click on the following images for links to more information- From the AAW- For The Newbies- Sanding our turnings is time consuming. Changing disks on the Velcro sanding pads just adds to the delay. I know @Gerald has a sanding disk for each grit and that can save some time. It also saves some wear and tear on the Velcro. Here's a video showing shop made sanding disk holders- Wooden scoops are always a nice addition to the kitchen. Here Richard Raffan shows us how he does them- Check out his YouTube channel for more turning videos- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2tEGrCP1GiVwfaT4K9bcNw Tracey Malady demonstrates the versatility of the Easy Wood Tools, @Jim from Easy Wood Tools, carbide cutters as she turns finials- Expand Your Horizons- A neat tip from Lyle Jamieson on how to keep lighter colored sapwood from darkening- Alan Stratton demonstrates some shop made jigs for creating turnings with eccentric patterns- Our local PBS station is always a little behind the rest of the country, especially when it comes to woodworking shows. This past Saturday, Jimmy Clewes was featured turning his signature platter. The episode is available for purchase at- https://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season15/1511/ New Turning Items- With the Virtual AAW Symposium taking place, I am hoping there will be some new turning tools/equipment introduced. Guess we will have to wait and see. Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- In preparation for each week's "Wednesday's...", I spend some time searching for informative videos. Some come from YouTube. I noticed recently that the YouTube users rating system seemed different. The "Thumbs Up" choice is listing the number of positive responses. The "Thumbs Down" choice doesn't show any negative votes. Thinking this was a little odd, I went searching for the reason. If you are interested in understanding the change- https://youtu.be/f1Izh3-c88Y Could this be a carryover from the "everybody gets a trophy" generation?? Safe turning and stay well
  7. Wow, just had the last remnants of tropical depression Fred move through. Got a little over 1.5" of rain in less than an hour but no wind or other damage. Our Patriot Turners- We haven't heard much from @Ron Altier, but he has turned a beautiful ornament made from a matched grain glue up- Here's his post explaining what he did! @Gerald belongs to the Magnolia Woodturners. They often have competition turnings to challenge their members. Gerald showed us a box he turned for the upcoming meeting. In his post, Gerald tells us a little about the techniques he used to create this lovely item! @AndrewB continues working on his Dragon Egg. In this post he shows us the finished sanding/polishing. Your turners gave him lots of kudos on his work- In the Patriot "What's On Your Weekend Agenda?" @forty_caliber posted pictures of a couple bowls he is in the process of turning. This one with some brass inlay- And this one, which has a really neat shape- There were lots of comments and questions following each of Forty's posts. Check out what our members said following each of the entries. What’s Coming Up- Cindy Drozda has and IRD coming up. Click on the above image for the link to registration. Several AAW events. Please click on the images for links to registration For The Newbies- Woodturning Monthly is available from The Woodworker's Journal- https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodturning-monthly/?utm_medium=email Bottle stoppers are nice gift projects and can supplement your inventory if you do craft shows. In this video, Mike Peace makes a really nice display piece for those stoppers- If you are looking for a source for bottle stoppers, check out https://nilesbottlestoppers.com/ @Gerald showed us a turned box he made. Here's a recent video from Craft Supplies USA demonstrating the techniques for turning a similar box- Expand Your Horizons- Jim Rodgers has a 2 part video on making open segmented turning. He demonstrates the glue up techniques and shop made jigs that assist in accurate, repetitive steps. And- If you are a member of the AAW, a recent email and magazine articles deal with color on turnings. Here's an excerpt from the email- Considering Color Adding color to woodturned objects is a fairly recent phenomenon. And, according to the late collector Arthur Mason, "There is no question that color can be a valuable design feature in wood art and that it can enhance the beauty and appeal of the work. But it also can diminish the pleasing effects of the natural features of wood. An artist’s decision to use color results from balancing these considerations, as well as from his or her ability to use color to an artistic advantage."* While applying color may not be for everyone, it can make the impact of a piece more dramatic and expand the artistic possibilities for a turned work. This week’s picks encourage you to consider and explore adding color to your work. New Turning Items- Sorry, couldn't come up with any new stuff. If you checkout the "Vendors Showcase" in the What Coming Up section, there are some hints as to what we can expect. Everything Else- Rick Turns list of last week's YouTube woodturning videos- I received a request to turn some bowls for a lady with whom I used to work. They supplied the wood (flame box elder and walnut) got a few finished, still have 2 to go- So far, I am really liking the Yorkshire Grit and Hampshire Sheen. My biggest concern was if finish would "stick" to the Yorkshire Grit finish. I used a piece of hard maple as a test subject. Following the instructions for surface prep- sanding to 240, using sanding sealer and then "sanded" with the Yorkshire product. From left to right, one application and no buffing- Mineral oil/beeswax, acrylic paint, gloss brushed on lacquer, gloss wipe on ploy, gloss spray on lacquer. These are the finishes I use most often. The film finishes seem to be unaffected by the sanding paste. The oil/beeswax doesn't penetrate deeply into the wood. A better test will be something dark like walnut. The acrylic paint would definitely need several applications and then a top coat for protection. Safe turning and stay well
  8. Practice inlay piece to test technique for a larger project. This is Walnut, African Mahogany, and Cherry. It’s 12” x 6”. Pockets and inlay pieces were drawn freehand in Fusion 360, cut on the CNC, then each piece hand filed and fitted. Leaf veins were cut by hand, as well. Finish is 2 lb. cut Shellac and applied with French polish method. Veins are highlighted with Mohawk Van Dyke Brown glazing stain. Finish took about 20 minutes from bare wood. Enjoy! David
  9. I sure was impressed with this video. Looks useful to me.
  10. These are not mine. My wife and I went to the Biltmore House in NC and these are pictures of a few pieces of furniture. I thought you all might enjoy these.
  11. shawnbrad

    block table

    From the album: my furniture

    eucalyptus block end table
  12. Ok, I've mentioned this many times and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  13. This week's 360 Woodworking audio blog is discussion with Craig Thibodeau Some awesome stuff. Interview is here https://360woodworking.com/craig-thibodeau-true-woodworking-professional-360w360-e-231/ Craig's web site with portfolio here. : http://ctfinefurniture.com/
  14. I have PIP photos of several projects and this is one I was very proud of. This is a cradle I made for our grandson 12 years ago and he is almost as tall as me now. Mainly went by a NYW plan. I changed the rockers slightly and added a star inlay, for which I wrote him a poem which his mother framed. This is the side with finger joints cut. and shaping . This is the template I made for the star. A little practice . The finished inlay. Fit together and sanding. Rockers added Finished product Yes he did sleep in it a couple of nights. and they still have it.
  15. Gerald

    cradle med.JPG

    From the album: Furniture and tables

    Cherry cradle made from NYW plan with star inlay added.
  16. Medallion -none of the work was in veneer it was all 13/16'' stock.. the medallion surround is hand hewn black walnut... (scorped)... TS and miter trimmer for the primary tools...
  17. Well I put on my big girl panties and did the inlay- using the suggestions you all provided. I saturated the fragile piece with three applications of thin CA after covering the back of the piece with tape. Instead of doing a typical inlay with a router inlay kit, I used double sided tape to fasten the sample shape to the front side of the "carpenter's mark". Then I cut around the sample shape using a coping saw- staying well proud of the sample. To complete the inlay, I sanded it down to the same size as the sample piece. For the lid, I covered the surface with tape. I scored around the sample piece with an exacto knife. Then, using my trim router, a template and the inlay kit bushing and bit routed to out the top of the lid. Did some final fitting with sand paper and this is the result- The inlay is not pushed all the way into the recess, I need to do some more sanding on the top. I know the fit would have been better if I had used the router/inlay kit on both pieces but I don't think the piece would have survived intact even with the glue and tape. Close but certainly not perfect- Also, I fixed up the unsightly nail hole- Some more sanding, a couple of "U" shaped supports for the pen, then on to the finish. Probably use some sort of clear coat. Although, a wiping oil would probably bring out the grain.
  18. It is supposed to be 73 here today, so after an hour or so finishing up my taxes, I will reward myself with some shop time! Currently working on a book on making Inlay Medallions. Tried a dyed rose last week. Not a bad first attempt, but somehow lost a few parts in the dying process! Ralph
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