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Found 10 results

  1. While waiting for the Soectraply mill blanks to arrive. I'll be clearing my bench off rolling pin stock and building inventory for next year's show season. This should put 72 pins in the bins.
  2. Well, this is my first rolling pin of any kind. When I do something for the first time, I jump in and try the most difficult thing. This was “supposed to be a Celtic knot rolling pin. It looks more like a drunken knot...ha ha....I thought turning the taper would be difficult, but it wasn’t to bad. I know there must be a way of doing it....anyhow here is a photo of it. It’s Curley maple with walnut inlays...
  3. This is a re-post on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. I am a fan of “Cook Book” style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out. In addition, many of these photos/procedures have been refined over time and I will try to point them out by adding extra photos rather than rewriting the entire blog. I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it! The first jig
  4. The second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22” long and 2” square. Locate the center of the length (11”) and carry a line around the blank. The ellipses are 11” long and made of three pieces of 1/8” thick material Layout a mark 5 ½” on either side of the centerline and accurately carry the lines around the blank. To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8” thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge.
  5. Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses. The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 3/32" to 1/8” of material left holding the two sides together. This is necessary during the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned. Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front SHORTER layout line is positioned to the LEFT side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of
  6. I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2” x 10 3/4” x 1/8”. Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot. (I now have a thick piece of Corian countertop for the gluing surface) On my first attempt, I didn’t use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably ove
  7. I get Tom Fidgen's Newsletter in my inbox and I always look forward to it. Tom is a hand made by hand tool guy, long story short, great stuff, beautiful work, I have been following him for along time. In the most recent newsletter he is advertising his new Two Handled Rasps, these are beautiful tools, I want them, I gotta have them, don't know how yet, but some day I'll have them in my shop. These tools just make sense, with their two handles, stitched rasp, these are made for accurate stock removal. I have no horse in the game here, I just love beautiful tools is all. Here they are.
  8. Rehabs the rest of the weekend, maybe? One Garage sale...all it said was.."Tools" Boss spent more than I did...but, she wasn't buying tools. I spent around $9 this morning...picked five tools Just had to shine up that medallion, to see what this saw was. . Hmmm, ring a bell? Saw is 26" long, has 8ppi, a skew back, and is wickedly SHARP. Paid a dollar for it... This be a $2 all-steel Shelton block plane....next.. This be a Millers Falls No. 900, I think. made after the Mohawk-Shelbourne line was ended...mid 50s? $2.....h
  9. The two elder brothers of the Peugeot family which had been originally miller and tanners setup a foundry in 1810, Peugeot Frere Anies. During the following industrial revolution the Peugeot destiny was transformed. Their factories embodied the success and strength of the metalworking industry. Having factories in towns arouind Sochaux: Saus-Cratet, Terre Blanche, Beaulieu, Pont de Roide gave them much success. Expansion into many different domains followed in the decades to come. Workers were taken care of both professionally and personally. Emergency funds for the staff, welfare aid for
  10. I ran across an interesting question on Facebook, a poster asked what would be more reliable, french cleats made from ply wood or solid hard wood? Any opinions most welcome.
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