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Begins with the sides... Rather, a Back and 2 sides...trying to get the grain to wrap around... Drawer fronts needed a blank or 2 to chose from.. The rest of these 2 will be for the front of the top tray...have some 1/4" stuff for the drawer sides and backs.. That pile underneath will be parts for the lid.. Maybe a raised panel? With a collar? Should be enough "parts"? Skinny stick for the front of the upper drawer runner? Still working out a panel for the bottom of the box...we'll see... Stay tuned..
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So I reached a point today where it was necessary to acquire new skills to move forward with the entry table project (See the entry table thread for more on that ongoing saga). So off to the shop I go, turn on some tunes, grab some scrap and start knocking together some dovetails…how hard can it be right?…… Famous last words, it turns out it is a lot harder than it looks. The first attempt was ok but gappy, second attempt was just a debacle. After that one, I took a break and reassessed many many life choices. Played ball with the shop dogs and came back to it knocked out the third attempt which is actually acceptable. Learned a few lessons today which is always a good thing: 1. Free-hand dovetails done by guys like Christian Becksvoort or Paul Sellers is a LOT harder than they make it look. 2. You can reference both chisels and saws on a knife marked layout line. 3. Everything in the joint has to be square. 4. Clearing out the corners of a blind dovetail is a pain, and I now realize what the purpose of a skew chisel or fishtail chisel is. For what its worth, cleaning out a blind dovetail without one is a tedious process. With lessons learned I think I have acquired the necessary knowledge to move on to the next step of the entry table which will give me ample opportunity to practice and build skills.
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Started on this stand earlier this year. Now to make two drawers. I like to use sliding dovetails to attach faces. Sorry no pic but this is how it looks. and when gluing drawers they need to be squared. now this is where I hit the problem. Slides anytime 14 inch and the drawer is 14. So this little protrusion is in the way. So there are two solutions. One: cut a notch in that and make the dovetail connection one sided there. Two: extend the face of the box. Number two is the winner but a bit dirty. I choose to screw these and glue since it is a shop fixture. More tomorrow as the handles are turned but no pic today
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Got this stand from a turner estate. Today go started on repurposing it to a tool stand and drawer unit. The top on it is hinged and was going to use that as a slanted tool each but changed that to flat surface to hold project parts and upright tool stand for tools in use. Got to order the drawer slides and build drawers. I really think this was a stool before the hinged top was added.
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In spite of having the Coffee Bar to finish I got distracted. OOOH i have been a baaad boy. Last week some of us woodturners went up into the Delta to visit a member and I got inspired by his cabinet arrangement. Was going to build more cabinets until I looked in my drawers and found some options to move around and get rid of others. One drawer was full of wood scrapes which came out. One had patterns from past projects which got moved away from turning area, another drawer empty. Sandpaper moved closer to lathe, two more empty. So here it gets interesting . remove Jacobs chucks, spur and steb drives and calipers from front of lathe to two empty drawers. Now have some empty drawers and will have to look at what goes in. 4 drawers will get Kazien Foam and cutouts for gouges , spurs, live centers. Now the question is what do you have lurking in the back of those drawers you have not used in 20 years?
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Made this beast of a cabinet 27 years ago when I bought the house. Needed a large cabinet to put my rapidly expanding tool set. It is NOT pretty, and yes it is made of a quilt-work of materials, OSB, plywood, Particleboard shelving, MDF, and cheap #2 pine. Measures 8 feet long, 25 inches deep and 32 inches tall. Heavy, YES, why? It seemed like a good idea at the time. Even put the beast on wheels thinking I would pull it out and clean regularly. Never happened, ever. I have plans drawn up for this to be replaced, but that may or may not happen. In the meantime, inspired by @Gerald recent work on his miter station and additional cabinets, I decided to get started. So having sold the unused benchtop joiner I had kept in the drawer I now have room for other plumbing supplies I keep in stock. This helps because I need the drawers those are in for my expanding machine screw and stainless steel screw collection. This is where we start: Used scraps from previous projects and kept with the theme of use whatever we have on hand. Took 7/16 OSB and edge banded the upper side, less splinters this way. Did the same with some scrap 3/4 plywood for the front and backs. The bottoms are the old backsplash from the sink project. Most of it was okay looking and so it gets used up. Took me a night to wait for glue to dry but had these done in short order the next night and gave them a few quick coats of poly to seal the wood somewhat. Once that was done I spent the afternoon installing these three. reused the drawer front from the original drawer and cut it down to fit all 3, got lucky here but I will take it. Drawers are installed now I need to make inserts for the PVC, CPVC, copper and some steel fittings I have. Have to get back to you on that, this was as far as I got today. Glued up a few pieces for tomorrows work.
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but it's what I have to do without access to stores. I should point out: my wife and I have watched every episode of "The Walking Dead" (well, she watched....I may have slept a little) plus I've seen all the "mad Max" movies. The point is we know how to survive in an apocalypse! So with that in mind I managed to build my cabinets for my assembly table to sit on. I was able to cut up some stuff I had made that was no longer used, and scrounged some pieces out of my stash that completed. This isn't the way I would do it normally...but, hey; these ain't normal times. So the carcass is mostly made up from the 3/4" ply stand my old table sat on, along with some 1/2" ply from a shelf unit that I had to cut up. The drawers are made of 3/4" ply sides (out of my stash) and hardboard bottoms. The hardboard would have been the sacrificial top for the assembly table before you'all changed my mind about needing it. The knobs have been in the shop for a while and came off our old kitchen cabinets from the remodel we did a couple of years ago. If this crisis ever ends I'll buy some wood to make drawer fronts. I should point out: I used Glide Right slides for the drawers. Gunny had mentioned them here a month or so ago, and I had seen another endorsement elsewhere so decided to try them out. Normally I would have ordered KV 8400 series, my go-to slide. Not any more, these glide right slides (from Amazon) are really nice and about 1/2 the cost of the KVs. These are the largest drawers I've ever made, 35' wide and 24" deep. They are amazing stiff, so I'm not worried about loading them down. All this, and people laughed when I watched the "Walking Dead".....well: who's laughing now! (Don't answer that!)
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Had a wonderful day. Found a drug store that had fixtures for sale. This is my fifth store but usually I do not pay anything. Between three of us the total was 101 and my share was 18. We got 3 5drawer units and two 4 drawer. Plus mats. Plastic prescription storage boxes, plastic totes, goose neck lamp, 4 wheel platform, latex gloves, bath scale, 5 boxes rubber floor tile. Oh almost forgot the new shop vac.
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2 drawer chest, Project Post 3.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: 2 Drawer Chest
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2 drawer chest, Project Post 5.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: 2 Drawer Chest
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2 drawer chest, Project Post 4.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: 2 Drawer Chest
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2 drawer chest, Project Post 2.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: 2 Drawer Chest
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2 drawer chest, Project Post 1.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: 2 Drawer Chest
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Guys, I'm making a box to place my Leigh dovetail jig on and added a couple small drawers into it. The box is made from plywood with oak edging and has NO face frame. The bottom of the drawer will just be 1/4" ply rabbeted into the bottom, the drawer will have routed sides as I added oak runners into the carcass. Now how do I make anti tip stops for a drawer like this? The case is 3/4 material and bottom has not yet been glued in place.
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I worked at a large power plant for 38 years and in a large instrument shop. Much of the work was on pneumatic instrumentation. All drawers were labeled as well as cabinets. However there were two drawers that alway got most people's attention. First was a large cabinet labeled in big letters "Things we should have thrown away years ago" My favorite was "Funny looking things"
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From the album: Pine Chester Drawers
Front view of the drawers, -
A project earlier in the year foreclosed on the real estate it once lived on. While not a woodworking tool it is a must for many other aspects used in woodworking. It is not unusual for me to have projects that require metal working and woodworking, ceramics etc. etc. You want it solid so it doesn't move, but also not in the middle of the way of other equipment when using them. Like most my shop space is limited so you have to be creative. It started with a box that had to be mounted firmly to the back of the bench as well as in the front. Used 1/4 xn 20 bolts to do this in the back, drilled through the bench and did the same in the front. It does not move. Then came the drawer portion I had a piece of 1 1/2 countertop scrap so cut it down and drilled holes for grinder. Mounted with 5/16 grade 8 bolts then used 300lb drawer slides. That got me able to pull it out of the way of the 12 inch sander and have some room to maneuver corners and such. Works great but hey it is a drawer slide, moves back quite easily. I needed a lock, something simple but strong. Used a brake shoe retaining spring to push the 1/4 metal plate down. Threaded the plate with a 1/4 x 20 bolt and added a knob at the top. Put it together and we have a mechanical lock that springs out when the drawer is full extended. Pushes back against the front of the cabinet, stays put. To release pull up on the knob and push back. Slides back and out of the way. To test this I mounted it all up and had my mountain man hulk looking neighbor slam it back into place trying to get the lock to fail, or any other part for that matter. Nope, all worked and no damage. Then fired it up and tested out the vibration. About normal for a grinder. Side to side slop is nominal, I called it a day and took all back apart to paint yellow. Didn't try to match, the paint serves two purposes, one is memory the second is if I send someone to get something I can say, the yellow grinder and know this stands out. Unless they are color blind they will find it. One of several projects I have planned. December is my month for shop work. Everybody else can wait till next year. Enjoy and be inspired!
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Well here we go again. new set of Drawers for my Jessem Router table.
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I have been working on upgrading my machine stands with drawers to store things associated with that machine. My latest is the Sliding router table stand.
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I have been working on making a cabinet under my new drum sander , Not done yet, I have to do the drawer fronts and little shelf insert on one end. But here is what I have right now. I am going to the lumber store tomorrow and pick up some wood for the fronts. Herb
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saw this elsewhere... http://www.home-dzine.co.za/diy/diy-easy-drawer-runners.htm#top
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Well, last drawer is DONE! Soooo, how about a few pictures as a PIP? Fancy-schmansy top? Wondering WHAT the Amber Shellac will do to this view? Thinking the "build" part is done....now on to the finishing part... Just a fun, simple little project...better than IKEA ones, though?
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Well, I was able to get out in the shop for a little while this week end and get the door and drawer fronts on. Ready to paint. Maybe, i can talk the wife to do this while i am laid up, otherwise it will not get painted until April I have a little tweaking on the gaps, otherwise all set to go under the router table after paint
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Cherry Entertainment Towers Posted 8/25/2007 11:36 PM CDT Had been encouraged by the wife to build these for some time now. Spent maybe a year checking other designs an making plans. Tracking my time and will give it when finish. The towers are 6 ft tall X 22 inch wide and 24 inch deep.Caucus began with making raised panels for the sides. The sizes basically echo the interior. The panels are prefinished with BLO and Garnet Shellac for base color. Will cover all with varnish on exterior when complete. Glue up of a panel this size and number of panels was a challenge and provided several lessons in how to get the panels and rail in evenly. Dados cut into rails to fit plywood shelves and make for a more secure joint. Caracas glue up using blocks cut to ensure square. Sides are rabbited to give more glue area for face frames. Face frames are joined together with pocket screws. Caracas with face frame attached now ready for base of 2X4 lumber with covering of cherry with simple molded edge The crown molding was a 4 piece made at the router table (top plate, crown and cove) and tablesaw (dentel) This is what the build on the molding looks like. After a few years we got rid of the old tv for an LED so needed a stand.. Made this to fit the existing spot and placed wheels on it for ease of wiring. Shelves made to fit existing equipment . Was expecting to place the bass in the large hole and place a door on it but changed my mind after reading about magnets and tvs. Used pocket screws for a hump over the wheels so that they do not appear to the eye, This almost makes the shlf look like it is floating . Once trim was added to front wheels are covered. Forgot to take a pic of the completed stand so had to stop and do that. The top is beaded and has a beaded molding added plus a cove.
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This bench was the culmination of 2 years of search and design combination. The design came from several places among them Shopnotes, Wood and the internet. It took me almost 2 years to find a sawmill with the white oak to do the build. Meanwhile I was accumulating the hardware. The front vise and tail vise came fron Lee Valley. Also bed bolts to connect the frame to ends. The front jaw on the front vise was a glue up of 4 pieces of maple salvaged from a bench in a retail store. This is the leg blanks cut to size and awaiting glue up. This is not the glue up of the legs, but the setup to be glued. I used waxed inserts to hold the slot size placement when doing the glueup. above are the legs ready for cross braces. to the right are the legs dry fitted. Cross braces are rabbited to fit mortise and protrude from the frame to allow chamfering the ends. This is a close up of the bed bolts in action for the top rail. The frame with lower shelf of plywood dropped into a rabbit in the lower frame. This is the glueup for the lower frame. Now time to begin the top with 3 layers of MDF glued and screwed together with careful placement of screws so as not to interfere with dog holes. Banded with white oak and enought space at the top for a layer of masonite so top can be changed if ever needed. Then work on the bottom with ends. The completed bench . Now time for drawers. Drawers have dividers and more enhancements added since the photos were done. The finish is from Mickley on Wood Finishing Forum(glad I printed out lots from the old days) . I will have to look that up in the shop and post later, but the glue easily pops off the finish.
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