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I started with the picture too small to hold in my hands while grinding the unwanted parts away and decided to hang it on the wall as a reminder. I already had this small piece of wood so I made the picture fit in that area. I usually do it the other way like having the picture as the size I want to work with then prepare the wood to fit that size. Thats only the second time in my life I made a mistake.And the back side shows the small pieces. smallpatch
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From the album: CWD CNC Boxes
A small lift lid single compartment trinket box made from Cherry -
Now I am sure I haven't made anything like this. When I first cut it out with the scrollsaw I didn't think it would look anything like the picture. A while more with the machinery, who knows?
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When I made my first Celtic knot roller, the results were not as good as I liked. I didn't finish it and started again. Today in a thrift store I saw another cheese cutter and decided to use that old roller and make another one. It looks Ok for my first roller and could make a gift, I use one to make pizza dough and will try this one to see if the beveled end will make the crust easier. If not, I'll eat it anyway
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Just finished this rolling pin for my wife. I used curly Maple and Walnut. The design didn't come out as I wanted but it is really neat and she loves it
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After looking at Lew's Posts and some youtube video, I made my first Celtic knot I used soft pine and cedar to see how it would look and to make it as easy as possible. I knew there was an 50/50 chance I would mess it up by one wrong cut and sure enough I did. I turned it anyway to see the look it presents. It is really nice and I will try a soft wood one again soon. Only when I have a good technique will I use good wood
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The final part of the Celtic knot French rolling pin covers turning the pin to shape. Most of my pins are turned with the traditional shape which is a gentle arc originating at the pin center and continuing out to each end. Originally, I turned this shape with a gouge; creating the shape by eye. This was totally unsatisfactory. Next, I created an arc template to gauge the shape of the pin. While this worked OK, it was easy to “take off a little more, oops, take off a little on the other end, oops†pretty soon the pin diameter was too small. I finally settled on a dedicated jig/cutter that would allow me to turn the diameters and shape all in one step. These are the steps I am currently using. Bring the blank round using standard turning techniques. The blank, although round needs to have the entire "knot†exposed. The complete knot exposed. This diameter is slightly larger than the finished pin diameter. This is the most exciting part of the entire process- seeing the oval appear from the flat inserts. Layout the critical points on the pin- center and each end (10†either side of center) Turn away waste at the ends of the pin and set the exact center diameter. At this point I will switch over to the dedicated jig/cutter. The jig locks onto the lathe ways. It is adjustable left to right so that the center of the jig will align with the center of the pin. The back plane of the jig is formed with the profile of the finished pin. I have recently rebuilt this jig to eliminate the slots- which were there because this base was made from another jig. The cutter sets on the jig surface. The cutting bit is set vertically to be at the center line of the centers. The long bolt adjusts the distance from the cutter to the work. The vertical bolt holds the tool cutter stock. My cutter is a .25 x.25 cutter stock ground to a half circle. The operation is simply moving the cutter assembly into the pin until the bolt touches the back plane; then moving the cutter left or right removing a little material at a time. The only “trick†is making sure the cutter is perpendicular to the surface of the pin. Once the pin is completely shaped, I round the ends slightly. Sanding is done using a random orbital sander on the spinning lathe. To finish sanding the ends, the waste is removed. The drive spur replaced with a sanding pad and then work up thru the grits. Finish in just plain old mineral oil from the grocery store laxative aisle. That’s it! Here is a link to all of the photos used and a bunch of extras. Some of these pictures show different angles and/or additional information. http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/gallery/album/103-celtic-knot-rolling-pin/ Thanks for reading along! If you have questions, comments or criticisms please let me know!
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This part will cover the glue up and trimming of the inserts for the rolling pin. I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2†x 10 3/4†x 1/8â€. Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot. I originally used an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. More recently, I substituted a Corian counter top cutout for the work surface. It is more sturdy. On my first attempt, I didn’t use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces. Clamped up After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming. I made a special jig that holds the piece above the saw table. Trimming assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation. Blank is raised above the saw table. Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp Trim, rotate an trim again. At this point it is a good idea to “sweeten up†the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them. ALSO: IF YOU USE THIS TRIMMING METHOD PLEASE REMEMBER TO LOWER THE SAW BLADE BEFORE CUTTING THE NEXT INSERT SLOT (don't ask how I know this). EDIT: I found it easier and quicker to do this trimming operation on the band saw. It is just as accurate and doesn't require a change in the table saw blade height. Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot. The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides. A slightly different pattern can be made by changing the sequence of cutting the slots. I cut the slot on side 1 first, then rotate the blank to cut side 3, then side 2 and finally side 4. After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed. On the lathe, ready to be turned. The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20†long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16â€; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4â€. I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers. In Part 5- turning with a special taper jig.
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From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin
Line drawing of dimensions-
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I am a fan of “Cook Book†style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out. I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it! The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project. It could be used for any diagonal blank cut. Special Diagonal Cutting Jig Note: The two wing nuts on the left of center are raised with wooden standoffs. This was a change made after some of the images were taken. The raised wing nuts allow for easier adjustments of the angled fence Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts. Disassembled Fences Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation Trim Jig During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple jig holds the blank for those cuts. Although I used this method for trimming, I soon learned that it was faster to use the band saw. The trimming process will be addressed in another part. In Part 2, we will cover the process of laying out the rolling pin blank.
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From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin
Disassembled jig-
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From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin
Disassembled jig-
- celtic
- rolling pin
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(and 1 more)
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From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin
Disassembled jig-
- celtic
- rolling pin
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
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From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin
Disassembled jig-
- celtic
- rolling pin
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with: