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Found 5 results

  1. According to my 1/2 brother, this belonged to my father. It is made by"MARSHALL-WELLS" and has a patent date of "OCT 29 07" . It doesn't look like it but I cleaned all the crud off it. Appears to have been chrome plated. Should I have it re-plated? Maybe have the blade re-blued" Is it worth it? Any other suggestions?
  2. From the album: Glenn Davis

    Pegged Mortise and Tenon Construction gummy cherry bevel glass mirror
  3. I have learned just enough to be dangerous. I watched several of Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening various things. I had no idea that it is advisable if not a must to initialize brand new planes and chisels. I have several of my chisels and both of my planes shining like a mirror and have a fair amount of razor burn on my arm from testing the sharpness. They are SHARP. My question is this. I think I understood Mr. Sellers to have said initialize at 25* and then sharpen at 30*. Why? Also, I took apart one of my Lowes block planes (don't make fun of me) and I am not sure if the bevel was up or down. Does it matter? If so, how do I figure out which way it goes?
  4. From the album: 18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest

    I don't remember if the raised panel was part of the American Woodworker plan or not, but I raised the drawer bottom panel by hand with a Stanley No.4 smoothing plane. It turned out really nice and I was very happy with the results.
  5. Well, got a center stile recut, as the first one was a 1/4" too short. Then cut a few grooves in it After taking a small hammer to the iron, to get it centered, again. Had it set a bit deep. You start at the far end and work your way backwards, until it quits cutting. Makes some nice curlie things jump out the side of the plane, too. Needed to size a couple panels to make the raised panels. While I do have the handsaws for this work, I don't have THAT much "Get-up-and-go" so A old, all metal Sears Craftsman circular saw did the work. Much faster than some olde pharte by hand. Laid out some lines to start making the bevels for the panels One inch in from each edge. There is also a stop line on the edge to show ABOUT where to stop the bevel at. A Stanley Four Square #5-1/4 Junior jack was set a bit deep. The trick is to do the end grain ends first. at a diagonal to the grain. Going from "high" to low". After a few minutes of scrapping away We have a decent bevel. Do the other end grain end, then set up for the long grain sides And repeat until all four edges have a bevel. I cleaned things up with a low angle block plane, too. Now, I do need to make a rebate on the back side of these panels, so.. A Wards #78 was setup to do the rebates. Same as the beveled sides, end grain first, then the long grain sides. Time for a test fit, or two? Well there is one fitted. Took a bit of trimming to get this one to fit just right. Re-marked the second panel, from lessons learned on the first one. After awhile, and a lot of this stuff on the floor Igor had to sweep the floor four times this morning! Grumbling about wanting a raise, too.... Well, I got the second one a little bit better made, so all the parts can go together Not too bad? The joints will get draw-bored tight, and wedged. Doubt IF I will need any glue. Top half still needs a rebate to house the screen/storm window. Then a coat of primer then paint, then hung in the doorway. So far, so good.... Who knows, maybe I will get some 5/4 stock, and make a new backdoor as well? First things first... Lunch and a shower, then off to my "Day Job" at 1900 tonight. Work the next two nights 1900-0710hrs
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